mr_ss.tt

I have a 2001 camaro ss and Im trying to add more horsepower but I don't want to spend to much money any ideas?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

How much do you want to spend?

Nathan C

An air lid and a cat back exhaust would be a good start. Check out the vendors on the right.

DEFYANT

What is your budget exactly? I would start with a Lid (SLP, FTP, etc.) a Catback (ANYTHING BUT FLOWMASTER), a Tune, and some good tires, pretty much what it stated about. After that I would do Longtubes and an O/R Y-Pipe (or catted if need be).

mr_ss.tt

Well I already have gmmg exhaust and I'm looking to spend like around 2 to 3 thousand maybe

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Heads/cam/LT headers + a tune.

Do a higher stall converter if it's an auto and maybe skip the heads to stay within your budget, you can always do heads later if need be. Or maybe wait a bit until you have a little more cash and can do the whole deal all at once. Or you can look for deals on used parts.

Or there is always nitrous.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

If you do anything nd its an auto get a bigger trans cooler first. Then add your bolt ons, build trans, and gears for the axle. Doing that will add some power but make your car run a lot better. Dont forget the tune

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

If you're on a budget and looking for max performance return from your investment, I wouldn't recommend gears as an initial mod for an A4 LS1; in fact it would be one of the last things on my list. A stall should be the first mod IMO, but once you have a 3500+ stall any additional gains from a 3.73-or-numerically-less gear swap will only be about one tenth of ET reduction. Hardly worth the cost if your budget is tight and you're looking for maximum increases in performance.....especially if you can't do the swap yourself and will be paying for labor. That money would be better spent on mods that increase horsepower or traction IMO.

Once you have a 3500+ stall speed, the only real benefit to a 3.73 swap is if you're one of the people bothered by looseness of the converter (shouldn't be a huge issue if it's a high quality converter, especially if you already have 3.23s.) Some people like the "tighter" feel of higher numeric gears, in which case driveability would be more enjoyable to them with a swap. I've always been one of the people who isn't really bothered by this though.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

I see what your saying but i was always taught to build the weakest link first, which is the 60E then 10bolt then suspension then engine. Hell he could easily out run someone with more power if he has the right set up.

I also have a 60E with 3600 stall and 373 gears. Runs great with him doing this it would allow him to get used to his stall before he adds any more power to the car.

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

if it were my car start with air lid; cold /ram air; for traction welded sfc's & lca's w relos (call bmr) ; stall w cooler call circle D, i added an aluminum trans pan; headers, tune. you cant upgrade cam without better springs so when budget allows TSP 2.5 heads & cam. cheers! just my one cent

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

The problem here is that adding 3.73s isn't doing anything to strengthen the stock rear; if anything these gears would likely be weaker than stock. If you are suggesting an entire new axle, then that's a different story, but frankly that would be overkill for a stock or bolt-on A4 car. Auto cars can take the stock rear well into the 1.6 or even 1.5 60-foot range without issues for quite a while....and some have gone even faster. Wheel hop is the big killer of stock rears for an A4, and if you can keep that away then the 10-bolt has a lot of life in it usually.

With an M6 car, all bets are off though. The stock rear could even break with 100% stock power and a good traction launch.