dyno tune vs frost tune
09-02-2015, 06:42 PM
#22
I don't care what anyone says there is no such thing as a "good" mail order tune it's not the way to do it. Unless your on a load dyno a dyno tune is pointless also. I don't even look at my wideband if i'm just messing around on the dyno because its going to want to pull fuel out on the rollers vs a load on the road. Proper way to tune it is on the street with street driving and wot pulls. Buy hp tuners or a standalone efi and learn how to do it yourself...or pay someone to remote tune it
09-02-2015, 06:49 PM
#23
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thank you AutomagicLS1, Your post put a lot of things into prospective for me. Unfortunately being that I am just getting into f body's I have no clue who to contact about that.
09-03-2015, 06:48 AM
#25
For mild bolt-ons and to get some of the engine lights shut off, there is nothing wrong with a mail order tune. Will it run at it's full potential? No. Will it matter in a bolt-on car? Well you aren't going to notice the 5-10 rwhp difference. Most mail order guys have done it enough to know what a combo will like to a certain extent. Obviously every car will react slightly different but it shouldn't be too drastic of a difference.
Once you start getting into internal mods, then yes, a good street tune or using a load dyno will be the best thing.
Once you start getting into internal mods, then yes, a good street tune or using a load dyno will be the best thing.
09-03-2015, 11:53 AM
#28
As far as the tune goes, I've known people/friends who had good luck with Frost tunes, and not so good luck as well. Exact same thing with dyno tunes.
09-03-2015, 12:51 PM
#29
a friend of mine with an 01 ss a4 CONVERTIBLE had similar mods to you (minus the tb mismatch)
slp lid
ls6 intake
loudmouth catback
I am a hobby level tuner at best but when we went wot with a wideband on his car that had a slight "hitch" at wot the stock tune had it just over 14 to 1 afr at wot , got the wot fueling into the 12.5-12.8 range at wot and then proceeded to add timing now that the fueling was correct ( all 1st/2nd gear pulls on the street) along with conservative reduction of torque management , slight increase in shift pressures and reducing shift times till shifts got nice and firm the car at the track went from a 13.7 car to a 13.2 car on street tires , this was about 5 years ago he hasn't had any complaints since , my point is his main problem was that his fueling was way off for whatever reason without a wideband reading any mail order tune would not have known that , most mail order tunes do add fueling for "insurance" but the most important thing to making power at any power level is air/fuel/and spark in the right ratios and the right intervals anything else is simply an educated guess
slp lid
ls6 intake
loudmouth catback
I am a hobby level tuner at best but when we went wot with a wideband on his car that had a slight "hitch" at wot the stock tune had it just over 14 to 1 afr at wot , got the wot fueling into the 12.5-12.8 range at wot and then proceeded to add timing now that the fueling was correct ( all 1st/2nd gear pulls on the street) along with conservative reduction of torque management , slight increase in shift pressures and reducing shift times till shifts got nice and firm the car at the track went from a 13.7 car to a 13.2 car on street tires , this was about 5 years ago he hasn't had any complaints since , my point is his main problem was that his fueling was way off for whatever reason without a wideband reading any mail order tune would not have known that , most mail order tunes do add fueling for "insurance" but the most important thing to making power at any power level is air/fuel/and spark in the right ratios and the right intervals anything else is simply an educated guess