Major problem with Aeroforce Interceptor
#1
Major problem with Aeroforce Interceptor
I posted this on the Aeroforce forum yesterday and got a response that says "forwarded to troubleshooting. I'm hoping you guys might have a clue to what the problem is.
Jul 14, 2016
I have a 2000 Camaro SS and ordered a "AF-PTx01" from MarylandSpeed. I plugged it up to the OBD (with no power wires) and turned on the ignition and its acting crazy. I just got this in the mail yesterday and hooked it up last night. I drove car to work today and here are the issues.
1. The initial start up didn't go well. Screen blacked out and and buttons didn't do anything when I pressed them. I was eventually able to select Trans 1, Coolant Temp, RPM.dum
2. It will boot up and seem fine and actually show data properly but then after 30 seconds to a minute later, the LCD will black out and the alarm lights will blink. It also causes my stock guages to go crazy(Fuel go to E, Temp go do zero, etc).
3. Buttons on the face of the display don't seem to work properly. Sometimes you press the button and it works fine, but sometimes you have press and wiggle it to get it to react.
Not sure if I have the wrong guage, bad cable, bad gauge or what. I feel certain that my ODB port is fine. I had a dynotune last week with no issues.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Jul 14, 2016
I have a 2000 Camaro SS and ordered a "AF-PTx01" from MarylandSpeed. I plugged it up to the OBD (with no power wires) and turned on the ignition and its acting crazy. I just got this in the mail yesterday and hooked it up last night. I drove car to work today and here are the issues.
1. The initial start up didn't go well. Screen blacked out and and buttons didn't do anything when I pressed them. I was eventually able to select Trans 1, Coolant Temp, RPM.dum
2. It will boot up and seem fine and actually show data properly but then after 30 seconds to a minute later, the LCD will black out and the alarm lights will blink. It also causes my stock guages to go crazy(Fuel go to E, Temp go do zero, etc).
3. Buttons on the face of the display don't seem to work properly. Sometimes you press the button and it works fine, but sometimes you have press and wiggle it to get it to react.
Not sure if I have the wrong guage, bad cable, bad gauge or what. I feel certain that my ODB port is fine. I had a dynotune last week with no issues.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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Sounds to me like you got a bad gauge. I have the same one you do, with the black gauge/face and red lcd screen. Mine fired right up and doesn't do any of the things you're describing. I'd call them and ask for an exchange.
#4
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Wow, I just realized that they didn't have a phone number. I figured that "MADE IN THE USA" at the bottom right side of the page would also mean they would have a contact number... guess not lol
#5
Yep, know what you mean. But it's the way things are headed. I'm ok with it but going on two days with no answered questions is a little irritating. It's putting a hamper on my progress. Was wanting to check trans temp before installing cooler and then stall.
#8
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if you can return it, I would recommend getting the B&M 70266. Our transmissions get pretty hot, and for the few extra bucks, it is definitely worth it man. Transmissions aren't cheap, and a high stall really puts a lot of extra heat on it. Not saying that it won't work, but for $13.xx you can go from 14,400btu to 20,500btu. It's definitely worth the -$14 imo for the extra cooling.
Edit: I just saw that you said you were still running the stock converter... That is the single best upgrade you can do to an automatic besides the turbo you put on it.
Edit: I just saw that you said you were still running the stock converter... That is the single best upgrade you can do to an automatic besides the turbo you put on it.
#9
I have Emailed Aeroforce and the quickly responded with a return form. Great CS so far. I have it boxed up and shipping out tomorrow.
Thanks for the recommendation with the cooler. I'd like to run a bigger cooler, but was wanting something that I could mount in front of my condenser to take advantage of the fans. I was hoping to modify my SSRA to make it work. I'll take a look at the 70266. I'm kind of regretting the SSRA now. I guess I could sell it, but hate to take the loss.
if you can return it, I would recommend getting the B&M 70266. Our transmissions get pretty hot, and for the few extra bucks, it is definitely worth it man. Transmissions aren't cheap, and a high stall really puts a lot of extra heat on it. Not saying that it won't work, but for $13.xx you can go from 14,400btu to 20,500btu. It's definitely worth the -$14 imo for the extra cooling.
Edit: I just saw that you said you were still running the stock converter... That is the single best upgrade you can do to an automatic besides the turbo you put on it.
Edit: I just saw that you said you were still running the stock converter... That is the single best upgrade you can do to an automatic besides the turbo you put on it.
#10
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I have Emailed Aeroforce and the quickly responded with a return form. Great CS so far. I have it boxed up and shipping out tomorrow.
Thanks for the recommendation with the cooler. I'd like to run a bigger cooler, but was wanting something that I could mount in front of my condenser to take advantage of the fans. I was hoping to modify my SSRA to make it work. I'll take a look at the 70266. I'm kind of regretting the SSRA now. I guess I could sell it, but hate to take the loss.
Thanks for the recommendation with the cooler. I'd like to run a bigger cooler, but was wanting something that I could mount in front of my condenser to take advantage of the fans. I was hoping to modify my SSRA to make it work. I'll take a look at the 70266. I'm kind of regretting the SSRA now. I guess I could sell it, but hate to take the loss.
Glad to hear that they are exchanging it for you!
#11
Update. Aeroforce has already shipped my gauge. Very quick turn around. Here is the response when I asked about the problem.
The power section was blown. This usually indicates a problem with the vehicles electrical bus. PLease check the health of the battery and alternator.
Also, start the car and allow it to run for a minute or two and then plug the gauge in while the car is still running.
If the car will be idle for longer than a day or two unplug the gauge and follow above process before plugging it in.
The power section was blown. This usually indicates a problem with the vehicles electrical bus. PLease check the health of the battery and alternator.
Also, start the car and allow it to run for a minute or two and then plug the gauge in while the car is still running.
If the car will be idle for longer than a day or two unplug the gauge and follow above process before plugging it in.
#12
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Well, I never unplug mine and my car sat over the winter without starting. It was also down almost a month when I pulled my motor. Not saying that they aren't right to be telling you that, but I use mine the complete opposite of what they told you and I have zero problems.
Hopefully you get it all ironed out and it works good for you!
Hopefully you get it all ironed out and it works good for you!
#13
Well, I never unplug mine and my car sat over the winter without starting. It was also down almost a month when I pulled my motor. Not saying that they aren't right to be telling you that, but I use mine the complete opposite of what they told you and I have zero problems.
Hopefully you get it all ironed out and it works good for you!
Hopefully you get it all ironed out and it works good for you!