RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

I just bought a brand new Dorman window motor for my pass side window and had it professionally installed. The damn thing is slower than a dead fricken turtle!!!

I thought maybe it was the old tint causing drag, but I've removed that and cleaned the window.

Anyone have any ideas?

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

Heard of members on here getting a bad motor right out of the box! Dorman's quality has been going down hill for a long time! Have you checked for any binding with the regulator/tracks? Have you done the passenger window motor mod?

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

That will suck if I got a bad motor, but at least it does have a lifetime I had this pro installed, meaning rivets, not self taping screws.

What is the motor mod?

I thought I had read on here, or some other forum, that there was a new motor design, but can't find it again.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

There are two mods. One where you remove the thermo resistor in the motor, usually done on old motors. And the other is were full voltage is applied to the passenger motor using relays. The Dorman motors are the new design? What does the window do?

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

No, I thought I had read that there was a new design other than the pancake (I think that's what these motors are called) motor.

The window looks like it's struggling to go up, like there's a lot of drag on it. Just real slow, especially right at the end when it's about fully up. I'll try to get vid.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I go through a dorman every 6-months or so on the passenger side, I'm not shocked that it didn't make it out of the box. Thats what we have warranties for.

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

Too bad someone hasn't made a new setup or motor for this issue :/

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

6ledesigns has the modified harness to fix the issue. I'm just a lazy sack and haven't done the mod yet.

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

lol....

Everyone talks about the Auto Trix, but damn they are $$$$!

I thought I had seen a new design on the motor and regulator, but I can't find it now.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Oh man, LMAO, I really needed the laugh this morning and that comment brung it!😂😂😂
This is the type of stuff that happens to me all the time😂
Seriously though, I hope you get it figured out. I'll be changing mine someday soon as well.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I don't think there was ever a new regulator design, but for a while there WAS a new motor design being sold under the Dorman name. That motor seems to have disappeared though, and they are back to the original design. All of this was outlined in a power window motor thread in the Firebird section I believe.

As for "professional install", if they removed the entire regulator I certainly hope they used the proper rivet to remount it to the SMC inner door structure. This is a special rivet available from GM (and perhaps other sources) that won't enlarge the mounting hole over time (this is not a problem you want to have, very difficult to ever fix.)

If it was just a motor swap, there is no reason to use rivets again. And I don't know why anyone would use a self-tapping screw, just a machine screw with a nut (lock nut would be best) on the back side. You can use a bit of loc-tite if desired, but I've never bothered to and never had an issue.

I don't see much value in the hotwire kits for the passenger side window, personally. On my highest mileage 4th gen, the passenger window motor outlasted the driver side motor by many years, so I don't think the voltage issue is really that big of a deal (unless maybe you're in the habit of rolling them up and down simultaneously, and/or with the engine off.)

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

I did mine with two cheap 40A relays and some wire, total cost under $10!