What's The Latest and Greatest? - General Maintenance and Tune Up
09-28-2016, 08:58 PM
#21
I like to run castrol in mine the gold bottle with a ac Delco filter. I run 10-30. I believe a lot of it is just personal preference over time, maybe it's what your pops use to run in all of his stuff or grandpa, or maybe even your favorite racer is sponsored by them.
09-30-2016, 07:23 PM
#22
TECH Enthusiast
I'm running the M1 0w-40 old version (non FS) with a Fram Ultra Guard XG3506 filter. I have a 2 year supply of oils and filters that costs me under $19/oil change. The M1 0w-40 SN has the same basic level of Zinc (1000 ppm) and Phosphorus (900 ppm) that the old SJ and SL oils had when our cars were new. HTHS on this is a stouter 3.7-3.8 vs. the 3.1 on M1 5w-30. The FS version currently on the shelves is a little weaker on operating viscosity and HTHS. The M1 30 grades ESP and HM do offer HTHS of 3.5-3.6. In South Carolina I'd much prefer the 3.5-3.8 HTHS for more higher temperature cushion.
Generally, don't expect the 10w-30 oils to meet some of the same mfg standards as the 0w-30 and 0w-40 oils....or even the 5w-30....as those are where the research dollars are going....not so much for 10w and 15w. I doubt you can even find a 10w-30 that meets most of the top vehicle mfg specs. The M1 10w-30 EP doesn't even meet GM's Dexos 1 spec. I chose the M1 0w-40 pre-FS because it meets MB, Porsche, VW, BMW specs.....the newer FS version has dropped at least one of these for the time being.
Best yet M1 can be bought at Walmart for $22/5 qt jug....along with a $12 mfg rebate good through October. Net price after rebate is $2.17/qt. Hard to beat. Pennzoil Plat is running a promotion through the end of year as well on $2/qt....48 qt limit. I have some extra supplies of PP Euro 5w-40 and PP SRT 0w-40 that I'll get to as well someday.
I'd have no problem running a top level WIX or Napa Gold. With the number of torn Puro's showing up in the past 2-3 years I'm sticking with the Fram synthetic filters....at half the price of Mobil 1 filters. Puro also makes MC, and some Wix as I recall.
If considering a high zinc racing oil for a non-flat tappet design, be careful going over 1500-1600 ppm as that's the point where the Zinc causes more problems than it helps...at least from my research. 1000-1200 ppm should be all you need short of a racing set up. And if your car has gotten synthetic oil all its life, using M1 now isn't going to change much. I'd go an oil change on regular M1 and see what happens. If there's little to no oil use, then I'd pass on the High Mileage version until you do so usage. Ensure you have a fresher PCV valve and hose. I ran regular M1 5w-30 for several years and have switched to 0w-40. Can't say I see any loss in performance, mileage or warm up times. Oil pressure is very slightly higher at operating temp.
Generally, don't expect the 10w-30 oils to meet some of the same mfg standards as the 0w-30 and 0w-40 oils....or even the 5w-30....as those are where the research dollars are going....not so much for 10w and 15w. I doubt you can even find a 10w-30 that meets most of the top vehicle mfg specs. The M1 10w-30 EP doesn't even meet GM's Dexos 1 spec. I chose the M1 0w-40 pre-FS because it meets MB, Porsche, VW, BMW specs.....the newer FS version has dropped at least one of these for the time being.
Best yet M1 can be bought at Walmart for $22/5 qt jug....along with a $12 mfg rebate good through October. Net price after rebate is $2.17/qt. Hard to beat. Pennzoil Plat is running a promotion through the end of year as well on $2/qt....48 qt limit. I have some extra supplies of PP Euro 5w-40 and PP SRT 0w-40 that I'll get to as well someday.
I'd have no problem running a top level WIX or Napa Gold. With the number of torn Puro's showing up in the past 2-3 years I'm sticking with the Fram synthetic filters....at half the price of Mobil 1 filters. Puro also makes MC, and some Wix as I recall.
If considering a high zinc racing oil for a non-flat tappet design, be careful going over 1500-1600 ppm as that's the point where the Zinc causes more problems than it helps...at least from my research. 1000-1200 ppm should be all you need short of a racing set up. And if your car has gotten synthetic oil all its life, using M1 now isn't going to change much. I'd go an oil change on regular M1 and see what happens. If there's little to no oil use, then I'd pass on the High Mileage version until you do so usage. Ensure you have a fresher PCV valve and hose. I ran regular M1 5w-30 for several years and have switched to 0w-40. Can't say I see any loss in performance, mileage or warm up times. Oil pressure is very slightly higher at operating temp.
Last edited by Firebrian; 09-30-2016 at 07:42 PM.
