Gas Gauge Not Working Properly
11-29-2008, 04:17 PM
#1
Gas Gauge Not Working Properly Well, yesterday I was driving around with some friends and looked over at the cluster, and my "Check gages" light was on. My gas gauge was on "E."
We went to the gas station and put in a few gallons, and it barely moved. The check gauges light has been on ever since. It sits on E, and when I shut the car off it goes down the rest of the way. Same when I turn it on, it rises up to E.
This happened in my dad's trailblazer, when it was full it would show 1/4 tank, turned out to be some kind of switch he said.
What could this be?
thanks everyone
We went to the gas station and put in a few gallons, and it barely moved. The check gauges light has been on ever since. It sits on E, and when I shut the car off it goes down the rest of the way. Same when I turn it on, it rises up to E.
This happened in my dad's trailblazer, when it was full it would show 1/4 tank, turned out to be some kind of switch he said.
What could this be?
thanks everyone
11-29-2008, 08:52 PM
#3
The "check gages" light is the idiot light. It means one or more of the following:
your gas is low
your oil pressure is low
your coolant temp is high
your voltage gauge is low
To your problem, you are still seeing low fuel - so it's triggering the light, as it should. Why is it doing this?
Running the gas too low often burns out the sensor in the sending unit. The fuel is also coolant so without it, the sensor in the sender overheats and dies. Often, you run it too low, too often, and your sender craps out but the pump still works. You probably created your own problem. Time to replace the sending unit or do your own gas math from now on. I have a factory assembly for a 98 LS1 car if you're interested.
your gas is low
your oil pressure is low
your coolant temp is high
your voltage gauge is low
To your problem, you are still seeing low fuel - so it's triggering the light, as it should. Why is it doing this?
Running the gas too low often burns out the sensor in the sending unit. The fuel is also coolant so without it, the sensor in the sender overheats and dies. Often, you run it too low, too often, and your sender craps out but the pump still works. You probably created your own problem. Time to replace the sending unit or do your own gas math from now on. I have a factory assembly for a 98 LS1 car if you're interested.
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12-02-2008, 10:44 AM
#8
The problem is with in the wiper arms of the sending unit.
There are 6 little fingers that wear-brake or corrode off. Which throws off the resistance value. There fore your fuel gauge reads incorrect or stops working.
You will have to pull the fuel pump bucket assy. Once removed the fuel sending unit itself can be replaced. Not sure if the fuel sending wiper unit is can be bought by itself. I do know it is removable so if you have a good unit there is no reason it can not be replaced.
Here is a picture of the fingers in green. Should have 6 in total 3 on each wiper.
To add the resistance range should be 20ohms @ Empty 150 @ Full
There are 6 little fingers that wear-brake or corrode off. Which throws off the resistance value. There fore your fuel gauge reads incorrect or stops working.
You will have to pull the fuel pump bucket assy. Once removed the fuel sending unit itself can be replaced. Not sure if the fuel sending wiper unit is can be bought by itself. I do know it is removable so if you have a good unit there is no reason it can not be replaced.
Here is a picture of the fingers in green. Should have 6 in total 3 on each wiper.
To add the resistance range should be 20ohms @ Empty 150 @ Full
Last edited by 618HAWK; 12-02-2008 at 10:52 AM.
