squeals99

iTrader: (8)

alright well im in the shop right now typing on his computer... and so far we've figured out that the car is running ridiculously rich. we pulled the drivers side plugs off the car and they were completely black, so we just replaced those plugs for now and when we put the new ones in it didn't help at all. the car sputters at idle and sometimes just dies out of nowhere. the left o2 sensor goes anywhere from 0.024 to 0.9xx and the right o2 didn't ever drop lower than the 0.024 but it seemed to run just a little higher than the left o2... we unplugged the left o2 thinking that it would be the problem and it still ran terribly. tried unplugging the MAF and still ran terribly. checked fuel pressure and it was fine. we have to have the garage door open to even run the car and it still fills the whole garage up with a gas smell. so far the only codes we have gotten were from trying to run the car with the MAF unplugged and the o2 sensor unplugged, but nothing else is coming up.

one weird thing was that the EGR was always at 0 and never moved, even while giving it gas, so we weren't sure how it really operated or when it should open or start working....

i replaced the distributor with a delphi one from thepartsladi on ebay because the car was backfiring badly and one day it just randomly died on me going down the road and wouldnt restart till i came back about 2 hours later, and before that it would take forever to crank to start and basically all the symptoms of the opti failing.... and the rotor screws were backed out of the one that was in it so i figured that was the whole problem... but it wasn't the case

we've traced and retraced the plug wires to make sure they were gonig to the right spots and they were

NonGoggleGuy

Something's gotta be choking it ...

Is the TB & manifold all clear?

Are there any codes?

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

yeah throttle body and manifold are fine... no codes and all sensors seemed to check out fine on a snap on solus scanner....

NonGoggleGuy

Rule of thumb says that an O2 sensor should fluctuate pretty quickly. If it hovers it the same area for too long, or it is slow to change, it's probably bad.

I don't think O2s are your problem, but that's what I know.

Oil pressure good?
Got enough beer?
Is there good spark?
How are the cats?

NonGoggleGuy

Also, provide some background - was work just done or did this happen out of nowhere? I'd replace that EGR valve.

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

lol well beer isn't needed too much... i dont really drink that often lol... but yeah the only thing that we did was replace the opti because i was throwing codes for it and the rotor screws backed out and it ran terribly all the time... so basically i fixed the opti and it still runs terribly... i really dont think its my o2s because it does fluctuate really quickly even though they are probably soon to go bad now because its running as rich as it is....

i probably won't replace the EGR because ill probably just get headers sometime soon and get the non emissions style because they arent strict at all on emissions here... but yeah oil pressure is alright, i don't have a cat on the car so thats not really a problem with it being clogged or anything, it seems to have good spark cuz we had a spark test light deal hooked up to it and it was flashing like crazy.... so i dont know really... my friend that is a mechanic said he figured i may have gotten a faulty opti or that it may not be put on right, but i know it went on right and i know all the plug wires are routed right...
i just don't know... i think its something easy that is right in front of my face but we just cant find it....
another thing one of my friends was telling me about but i dont know if its true or could happen, but he said that he heard of one of the temp sensors going out on these cars and it made the computer think that it was -38 degrees celcius outside so it would swamp the motor with fuel.... i didnt check the temp yet or anything but i dont really think that is the case...
but i dunno... if anyone has any ideas to check let me know and ill try my best to check and see if its bad

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Buy an LS1. Problem solved. I'll sell mine for $6.5K after EPP gets done with it. You're close.

I loved my LT1 till it pulled **** like this. $1000's later I never got it figured out. Buying an LS1 was my solution and it worked!

NonGoggleGuy

$6.5K's over my head, but curiosity grabbed me. What are they doing to it?

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

One of the first things to check if it's running rich would be the coolant temp sensor. Does it only have problems when it's warmed up? Look at what the sensor is showing with a scanner.

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

well no its not just when its warmed up... it does it all the time, cold or warm.... ill def. go check the temp and see if its not out of whack here in a sec
lol the ls1 sounds nice to me, but being a college student im not made of money lol

squeals99

iTrader: (8)

well today i went back and recorded some freescan logs or whatever you want to call them and i had a trouble code that was code 16, which is something like low resolution pulse for the distributor, but i wouldn't think that new distributor would be bad somehow already.... anyone know if it could be anything else besides the distributor....
also, if anyone wouldnt care to check my freescan logs or whatever they are... they are excel files and i dont know how i can put them on here, but i can def. email them to ya or something

Chuck Hartley Jr.

Ive gotten 4 bad optis in a row every one of them said high res failure from brand new. Nit a big deal high res is idle to low rpm. But when u get code 16 low res fail its a big deal an could be your problem. Also i had a bad ecm. The optis i discovered several brands wired backwards at plug. Hence y it says high rez bad from brand new. Get an original factory opti an put new cap an rotor on it

Shane Spears

My 1995 z28 lt1 blew up so I ordered a brand new lt1. Hot built top end stock bottom end, have big aluminim heads, jessel rockers, 571. Cam, bigger injectors, bigger throttle body, it's around 500 to the back wheels. "Note" the motor is built exactly like it was when I blew it up besides a bigger cam. It's running rich, hard jittery idle and has no power at all!!! Should I have 2 retune the computer if its built that close? It is having the same problem as everyone else's on here and I have it at the shop rn and he said my computer is either bad or it needs retuned. I'll let yall know my outcome and hope it helps some1 else out. I'm over $7,000 into this motor and its frustrating