N34Stryker

iTrader: (2)

I am going to put a 160 t stat in the car. Do I need to buy the entire thermostat housing, or just the 160 thermostat? I see the hypertech one is the housing with stat, while some places sell just the t stat. Are there any performance gains to getting the entire housing, or is it just a waste of $30? Thanks

NonGoggleGuy

The thermo & housing all come as one piece. Be prepared to lose a lot of coolant. Also, make sure you bleed the system - easiest way is to open the line right underneath the TB while the car is running to let all the air out. And when you first start the car after the change, KEEP AN EYE on your temp. because if there is still air in the system, it WILL overheat.

Without a tune, performance gains are so miniscule, they're completely insignificant, but it does keep your engine cooler, thus increasing your engine life ever so slightly.

N34Stryker

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I guess the other ones weren't for LS1s. I plan on having the system flushed and this put it in at that time. Hopefully I can find a good place around Columbus OH. I just moved there and do not want to go to a dealer. Anyone know of any good places?

NonGoggleGuy

If you've held a wrench before; and have a wrench; it's really not that hard of a job.... I'd call it messy more than anything else. It's right on the front passenger side of the engine. Just get a real big pan to catch all the coolant.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Flush it yourself. You can do it blind folded, well maybe not. And since your changing the t-stat anyway, this process will even be easier.

Best/easiest way to flush and get every drop of old coolant out.
Cold engine.
Remove radiator fill cap.
Remove the t-stat. (2-3 minute job)
Put t-stat housing back on. (1 minute)
Take the entire radiator drain valve (petcock) "off", don't just open it. It'll drain faster with it off and thats what you want. ((Buy a new petcock, sometimes they break when you remove them all the way, they're like $2.00))
Take a hose and stick it in the radiator fill cap, running medium to high.
Start the engine.
Let it run for about 15-20 minutes or until the water is running out the drain CLEAR.
When it does your entire system is clean.
Put the t-stat back in.
Put the drain valve back in. Use the new one, what the hell.
Put half a jug of Dexcool in the radiator. (Or if you live in very cold places, 1 ½ jugs of Dexcool)
Fill the rest with water. (one bottle of water wetter can't hurt, your choice)
**Let it run and warm up till the t-stat opens once and starts to flow, to see if the level drops, just to make sure the system is completely full of coolant, if it drops just top it off. Then wait one more time for the t-stat to open and start to flow, then top it off again.**

Done.

If your system is sealed, don't mess with it for another 5 years or more.

99WS6MAN

iTrader: (2)

I ran into this problem this last week ... if you have the newer water pump then all you need is the Thermostat .... the older water pumps have the thermostat in the housing and is one piece. If you don't know the easiest way is to remove the thermostat and see if its a one piece or two

NonGoggleGuy

If you still have a stock water pump, the t-stat & housing are one piece.

They don't sell the LS1/LS6 water pump anymore, but the LS2 WP bolts right up, but has a regular-style t-stat.

tripps

iTrader: (7)

T-stat replace will be easy. Just get a bucket for the coolant like everyone else has said! You won't really notice a difference in the temp gauge as its not really accurate below 190.

NonGoggleGuy

Good point. These f-body temp gauges are not accurate. I had to hook up a scanner to see that the 160 was working correctly, because my gauge still reads 195.

N34Stryker

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all of the help guys. I could do it myself, but I don't have a hose at my apartment complex. Gay I know. I could take it to a spray off car wash place, I think I would have too much water/coolant to take back with me. What do you guys do with the old coolant? Is there a place that recycles it?