oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any tips or suggestions on doing this? I think it may be the cause of a code set in my car (p1416)-port air circuit. Is it a inexpensive part and easy to do yourself? What are the best tools/methods to use to do this?

Thanks for any help.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

air check valve....never heard of that.

Do you mean the Idle Air Control valve on the throttle body?

I think they're maybe $40.00 (aftermarket) and it takes about 2 minutes to change with your eyes closed. Well, one eye closed.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Well I believe it's for the AIR system?

I found this when I searched the code p1416:

http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic9115...d7750547a4a7fa

Firefighterformula

Yeah...

The check valves on the AIR lines keep the exhaust from backflowing to the pump.

Blazers were famous for getting fried pumps when these failed.

I've never replaced one on an F-Body, but you might as well bet on having to get it from the stealership or a GM parts supplier online. Advance/Autozone probably won't have it.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Okay the dealership it is. Thanks for the input.

Formula413

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Autozone has it, it's like $12. Advance probably has it too.

Yes, it is easy to fix. It unscrews with a 1" wrench. Unhook the other side from the rubber hose, put the new one in and you're done.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Cool I just took a closer look at it and it looks like an easy to get at job. I like those I'm thinking on just doing the drivers side one too.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys just wondering if anyone knows if my problems (p1416 code set + intermittent "hissing sound") are related and possibly indicating a bad AIR pump? Any opinions?

If bank 1 (drivers side) kicks off a code too (p1415) then I'll know it's not likely just the check valves.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

When you say hissing sound that makes me wonder if you have a leak in one of the AIR lines. That could also cause that code to be set. Check those over closely. You can also just take the check valve out and try to blow through it (towards the manifold). If it is difficult or impossible to blow through than that is your problem, if not then you probably have a leak in the line.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Okay so after waiting a few weeks or so to see if the code came back on it did finally come on again! So...I want to change the check valve now (p1416 code again ) but first I'd like to just take it out and clean it and see if its working by blowing through it. I could get away cheaper that way (dealership here want 48 bucks for it ) by simply cleaning it? My problem is this:

I can't get the damn thing off!!! I'm getting frustrated with it. Is it a left handed thread or something here? I mean I have two one inch wrenches on it and can't budge the damn thing? Could I check it by simply blowing through it while still connected to the exhaust manifold? Or maybe just disconnect the WHOLE assembly *(the check valve AND air line from it leading to the exhaust manifold) from the exhaust end and try to bring it in that way? I fear I may be bending the metal tube running to the exhaust if I force any harder trying to get it off while it's on there.

Also how can I tell if I have a lead when the entire tube is covered with a mesh type material?

Please help.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

It's not a left hand thread. Mine was on there pretty tight too. I would try spraying PB Blaster or some type of penetrating oil on the threads and/or heating it with a propane torch first, then try it again. If that doesn't work you could try gripping the metal tube with vise grips to keep it from bending while you try to turn the valve.

Once it's off, you might be able to clean it by soaking it in carb cleaner, but you should be able to find a new one (assuming that is your problem) much cheaper than the dealer at your local parts chain store. I got mine at Autozone for like $12.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I got it off finally!!! Damn! I had to simply unbolt it from the exhaust man. and take the whole tube and valve inside where I torque fucked it lol. So it's off, and I can barely blow through it towards the exhaust. If I blow FROM the exhaust side I'm getting the same result, just a little bit of airflow(which shouldn't happen at all from this end). So my conclusion is that it is plugged and gummed up which is keeping in from opening and also keeping it from completely closing too. I am soaking it in wd-40 right now and ever so often I give it a rap with a wrench. I tried poking a coat hanger tool (lol) in there and forcing a little but am worried I could damage it. If it's still gummed up in the AM I will order a new one. Am I ok to just bolt the tube back on using the existing "liquid gasket" that's on there? I have none left to put on it but there seems to be an ok amount there. How important is it that this is 100 percent air tight? I think I'm fine just to tighten it back on with the existing gasket gunk that 's on there. It's the silver exhaust ****. Thanks a bunch guys. I am hoping this predator starts to pay for itself so I use it as a scanner on my car and on my gfs car too as often as possible.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Hey Formula413. Is it possible that the "hissing/whistling" sound I'm getting at certain intervals is not a LEAK in the AIR system but perhaps a byproduct of having one check valve plugged like this on is? Maybe it puts more pressure in the other bank's AIR check valve and causes it to whistle, that's where it sounds like it's coming from. Could this clear up both problems? The sound AND the SES light? That would be great!

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

Well, when one of mine was plugged I didn't notice any unusual noises, so I tend to doubt it, but anything's possible.

What you want to put on the threads for the valve is anti-sieze compound, to keep it from getting stuck and being difficult to remove like yours was.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

I'm also only going to tighten it until it's tight. Not BALLZ TIGHT like it was Hope I can just re use this one. If I want to put some form of gasket material for where the AIR line connects to the exhaust manifold, what would I use? Currently there is a silver type substance there and I'm not sure if there is enough of it to form a good seal.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

That silver stuff is probably anti-seize. It's not there to seal the threads, they will seal fine on their own.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

ahhh ok thanks man.