Window Motor HELP
06-06-2009, 12:59 PM
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Window Motor HELP hey guys. I have a 1997 Z28. I was a member of several forums in the years past but havent had time to post and kind of fallen off the scene a little.
I do need some help though.
I know that the window motor has a temperature sensor that keeps you from burning up the motor. I also know that these sensors are notorious for going bad, causing the motor to work intermitently.
Once upon a time there was a walkthrough online on how to bypass this temperature sensor, versus replacing the entire window motor. I did the mod on my last camaro when it had similar issues and everything worked out great. The motor continued to run for another 1 1/2 that i owned the car.
If anyone knows what I am talking about or could provide some insight it would be greatly appreciated.
I do need some help though.
I know that the window motor has a temperature sensor that keeps you from burning up the motor. I also know that these sensors are notorious for going bad, causing the motor to work intermitently.
Once upon a time there was a walkthrough online on how to bypass this temperature sensor, versus replacing the entire window motor. I did the mod on my last camaro when it had similar issues and everything worked out great. The motor continued to run for another 1 1/2 that i owned the car.
If anyone knows what I am talking about or could provide some insight it would be greatly appreciated.
06-16-2009, 02:21 PM
#3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...indow-fix.html
This might be what you were talking about....I went to advance Auto Parts and bought a new window motor for $29 with a life time guarantee..it took about 45 minutes to replace the old motor..that was 2 1/2 years ago and the window is still moving fast...the aftermarket motor is much better that the factory motor that came in the car..
.. I'd just replace the motor.
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
This might be what you were talking about....I went to advance Auto Parts and bought a new window motor for $29 with a life time guarantee..it took about 45 minutes to replace the old motor..that was 2 1/2 years ago and the window is still moving fast...the aftermarket motor is much better that the factory motor that came in the car..
.. I'd just replace the motor.http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
06-20-2009, 03:44 PM
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id rather not replace the motor if i dont have to.. thats just pointless..
"The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time. The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more."\
That is my problem from a walkthrough on replacing a window motor but this is all the information that it has about this issue.
I know that there used to be a write somewhere online for BYPASSING this thermal sensor, because I used it for my last camaro. If anyone knows anything else about this could they please give me some more information.
"The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time. The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more."\
That is my problem from a walkthrough on replacing a window motor but this is all the information that it has about this issue.
I know that there used to be a write somewhere online for BYPASSING this thermal sensor, because I used it for my last camaro. If anyone knows anything else about this could they please give me some more information.
06-20-2009, 03:54 PM
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never mind i found it.. if anyone else needs it here is the walkthrough
1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic) .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.
and a link to the forum where it came from
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=Window+Motor
1. Remove the window motor from the door. http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
2. Bend the 3 metal tabs on the end of the main housing outward with pliers to release the black plastic end cap from the main housing. The end cap is what you will be modding.
3. Pull the plastic end cap off off the main housing. The 2 brushes and 2 springs will fall out, (don't panic) .
4. There is a 1" conducting strip it is layered. Pull the top strip (copper) off with flat-tip and pliers. You will now see a black surface on the conductor.
5. Using a Dremel with grinding stone or similar, grind the black insulation off to get bare metal surface, also dress the second small terminal that conncects to the brush square opening.
6. Bend the two conductors so they touch and solder them together. Steps 7and 9 are optional but they will further enhance conductive ability.
7. Cut a piece of 12 AWG wire several inches long, and strip the end and tin it with solder.
8. Solder the one end of the wire in to further strengthen the newly soldered conducting surface in the cap. This wire stub is only to enhance the conducting ability.
9. Cut all the excess wire off.
10. Pull the motor armature completely out of the main housing.
11. Bend the four small tabs outward on the end cap so that the brushes can be inserted from the outside rather than the inside.
12. Ensure the armature commutator (the round gold surface where the brushes ride) is clean of grease.
13. Place the plastic end cap on the armature.
14. Insert one brushes in there square slot from the outside, it is indexed and will only fit one way.
15. After the brush is in insert the spring and secure it by bending the two tabs over.
16. Repeat step 14-15 for the other brush and spring.
17. After the two brushes and springs are installed, slip the entire assembly back into the main housing and lightly tap the housing till its seated.
18. Bend the 3 tabs over to secure the end cap to the main housing.
19. Install the window motor. Once the access hole are drilled in the door, I use allen head screw and whiz nuts (nut with attached serrated locking ring) to attach the motr. This make the whole process very easy to do. The whiz nuts dont require a wrench to tighten, they bite into the door.
20. Proceed to drool over the new wicked fast 3-4 second ET's of your power windows.
and a link to the forum where it came from
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=Window+Motor
06-20-2009, 07:02 PM
#6
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WOW great find and write up. This reminds me of a video I found a LONG time ago. These guys some how made windows to roll up faster than my 60' time (2.0). I was interested in doing the mod but lost the link. This may be what they did. Thanks.
