evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

When the 1994 in my sig is at idle the battery gauge shows just barely above the orange caution range, when measured with a volt meter the battery will start at about 12.9 and slowly start decreasing so after idle for a few minutes it will be down at 12.5 or so, measured with Datamaster at idle the voltage shows about 11.3 at idle when i slowly start opening the throttle the voltage will climb slightly to 12.1 at about 2500 rpm but when i get to 4000 rpm the voltage drops significantly to 10.8, watching the battery gauge i also see this happening, at idle it is just out of the caution range, at 2500 rpm it goes up to the middle line of the gauge but over 3500-4000 it drops down into the orange caution range. The car died and didnt want to start for my wife this week 2 times. I replaced the battery and the alternator but the problem is still ongoing, it seems to idle okay but if you drive it at all you run the risk of it just shuting off. Any ideas? I really need to get this running ASAP. Thanks guys

BTW the lower datamaster voltages also match the reading on my HSW microedge display

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I removed the ground strap from the battery and cleaned the body and strap with sandpaper, i also removed the pos wire and all the others from the battery block and cleaned all those connections, started the car back up and it was showing 13.29 volts at the battery at idle, i though i had fixed the issues but then i turned the car off and turned it back on and it was back down at 12.2 volts, i tried to turn it off and on a few times but it seems to be at 12.2 volts max at idle, the small wires that goes to the back of the alternator look to be fine as well, belt looks new and tight

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

I had a similar issue. Turned out my battery cables were corroded and the ignition relay needed replaced.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Change the excitor wire and you should be golden. Plugs into the top of the alternator.

$10.00 on ebay.

Assuming all obvious **** is ok like fuses/relays and you have no corrosion on the cables anywhere.


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evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

i replaced that wire, still no luck

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

What did you do with it....solder it or spliced it together with butt connectors?

Everyone I know that has done it with solder, it didn't work. Butt connectors only.

Is everything clear of any corrosion?

Only other thing I can think of that causes your symptoms is the red battery cable. They sometimes corrode inside and I've also seen them "break" inside. They just kind of snap in two. They're still touching inside and will still charge but not 100% of the time. Maybe put the meter back on it and try to move that cable around and shake it to see if there's any sudden changes on the meter. Do it with all the cables and wiring for that matter, while looking at the meter.


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evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

did it with the butt connector, i also tried wiggeling the wiring but still no luck 12.97 volts at idle at the battery and 13.05 volts at the back of the alternator

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Maybe the new alt is bad than.


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evilbeef54

iTrader: (2)

i suppose that could be the case, it would be weird that the first alternator had a problem (it was less than a year old) and the new one has the same problem, but im out of ideas of what else could be wrong

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Drive it to get a free test on the batt and alt while their in the car. Someone on here like last month posted about getting a bad NEW alternator. It happens. Could be a bad battery too, even if its not that old. They short out all the time.