blue94

iTrader: (7)

I just put a brand new GM regulator/motor in my drivers door, and after the install the circuit breaker in the motor keeps shutting off like there is too much resistance on the motor. The guides/wheels are all lubricated with lithium grease and I cleaned the electrical connector on the motor before installing the new regulator. Also, I have two sets of switches and it does the same thing with either switch. Passenger side works fine. The problem is only in the drivers side after installing the new regulator/motor assembly.

Any ideas as to what could be the problem?

Sometimes the window will go down/up, but it will only go for a couple seconds and than stop like their is too much resistance on the motor and it is tripping the circuit breaker. when it won't work, I hear a click from the express down module under the dash when I press the window button.

I just really hope I don't have to pull the regulator out again because my new gm assembly is junk.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

How do you know the motor was "new?" A lot of people have this problem when replacing their motors when they get a bad re-manufactured unit.

The problem you describe is with the thermal cutoff circuit in the motor. (The same part that cuts the motor when the glass is all the way up/down.) I've had several reman motors in the past come with a dud thermal cutoff.

blue94

iTrader: (7)

I clearly stated I bought a brand new from the GM dealership AC Delco regulator and motor assembly. If I had bought a reman parts store window motor I would've said that. This regulator/motor assembly was still sealed in the factory shrink wrap.

I really don't want to pull this whole damn thing apart again, which is why I spent the extra money for a Delco regulator/motor, but it is looking like I may have to.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

GM sells reman also and I'll bet what you purchased was a reman, even though it was a sealed AC Delco part. These motors were installed in cars all the way back to the late 70's. It may not even be possible to get truly "new" OEM motors any more.

blue94

iTrader: (7)

Its really looking like i'm going to have to pull this thing out again . I would try to put 12v power directly to the motor, but i cannot reach the electrical connector without unbolting the regulator again.

Thanks for the help, i'm just really loathing having to pull this thing out yet again.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I feel your pain. That's why I switched to a different aftermarket motor/reg setup a couple of years ago. But... I did that before the new Doorman motors came out.

If you still have your old regulators, you might want to go to an autoparts store and get a Doorman. Its a new design, which is supposed to keep the internals cleaner and last longer. Also, with the Doormans, you'll get a new motor. I haven't seen any complaints about them yet.

BTW - When you installed your new regulator, did you bolt or rivet it in?

blue94

iTrader: (7)

The one I just replaced with the Delco regulator was actually my second Dorman regulator. The first one went bad because the rear guide wheel broke off of the window and bent up the regulator. This time the regulator was actually fine, but the motor burnt out. I bought the GM regulator to replace it, because ordering another Dorman Regulator is special order where I work(Oreilly Auto Parts) and would've taken a week.


All that being said, I figured out why I am having problems with the new motor/regulator. The electrical connector that attaches to the motor is not making a good connection and causing the motor to cut off. when the motor stops, if I wiggle the connector it will work again.

I am going to put some dielectic grease on the connection tomorrow, and if that doesn't help I'll have to see if I can get a new pigtail to connect to the motor.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That's absolutely brutal!

I had a similar issue when I replaced my regulators during my first and second motor installs. (There were many more after that, but we'll try not to relive that hell...)

In my case, I was not getting the "T" part of the connector engaged all the way on the motor. I found that I had to take the door speaker out and contort my body in an unnatural way to get my fingers on the "T" and make sure it was situated on the connector properly. If your connector is FUBAR'ed, you can also easily switch out the connector body for another one.

blue94

iTrader: (7)

I actually pull out the door speaker first thing now, when I change a regulator. It makes getting to the regulator bolts MUCH easier as well as making getting to the connnector easier.

I shot some dielectric grease on the connection today and all is well...works perfectly every time now.