araber89

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys help me out here. I want to do some new fluids in the car and need some help with how to go about it and how much to put back in.

I am planning on doing the coolant, rear end, and transmission. (Maybe the brakes)

Ok I would like to have a little how to on the coolant flush. I think I have it figured out but any help would be appreciated. I also need to know how much coolant to buy either 50/50 or full strength to mix later. Keep in mind I live in NE Ohio.

Next is the transmission. I'm doing a clutch swap this winter anyhow so I'll be draining the trans. Is it as easy as emptying the trans then filling it back up through shifter? Also how much fluid is needed and what do you guys like to use?

Finally the rear end. I know to take it off and to use RVT sealer to put it back on. Thinking about getting a new cover so I have a fill/drain plug. Now I also need to know what fluid to use in this.

Also if anyone has any say in a brake flush let me know. It doesn't really need it but I thought about doing with everything else.

So if you guys could help me out with what fluid to buy and how much I would appreciate it. Also any stuff to watch out for or tips on how to do things would be appreciated. And for the trans and rear I was thinking royal purple or red line products. Let me know.

Thanks

01WS6er

iTrader: (2)

RP fluids are great. I have it in my WS6, I put 75-140 in the diff (2qts) and use 5-30 for oil. I have not used the RP manual trans fluid in the t-56, but have used it in BMW 6-speeds without a problem. I dont like using RTV for a rear gasket, they will leak, use a gasket. You can get one for a s10 and it work, they do not show a listing for our cars, but teh s10 has the same size rear. the gaskets are usually cheaper than a tube of RTV.

Brake fluid needs to be changed every 2 years. Brake fluid attracts moisture. too much moisture will rust brake lines and cause caliper to seize up. I am running super Blue in my car. i got it Free so why not. I normally run dot4 BMW fluid. I am a BMW tech, so I gots plenty. I will be changing it to DOT4 BMW next year.


Basically besides the rear fluid and right now the eng oil, I have BMW coolant in it and have used their Dot 4 in the brakes. I have even use the BMW 5-30 oil. So far as suggestions, i use manly BMW because I get it FREE.

araber89

iTrader: (3)

Sounds good thanks. Whats the best way to drain the drain all the brake fluid? Or to flush it?

02WS6SSZ71

iTrader: (20)

I'm no help on the coolant...I always take mine somewhere cuz I don't care for cleaning up coolant.
For the rear and tranny, I use Redline fluids. No complaints, and I have never heard anything but good reviews. I have never heard anything bad about RP gear or tranny fluids either, but no first hand experience.
The rear holds <2 quarts 75W90. I know the Redline comes with the limited slip additive; not sure about the RP. I would recommend getting either the Summit of TrickFlow billet diff cover that Summit sells, as they have a drain plug as well as main cap supports. I have the Summit version on my SS, TF on the WS6...no complaints. Fill it back up from the factory hole until it starts to run out rather than the fill hole in the new diff cover. This will allow you to run some extra fluid and should help keep things cooler. I used a factory replacement gasket with a little black RTV on each side, mainly to hold it in place...no leaks.
The tranny uses ATF fluid, I believe 4 quarts. There is a drain plug on one side and a fill plug on the other...fill it until it runs out the fill hole. You will need to buy a pump to refill both the rear and the tranny...10 bucks at OReilys or wherever. Make sure you clean it well in between or buy 2.
For the brakes, you could go through and bleed at each wheel and refill the master as you go...or take it somewhere if you're lazy like me and let them flush the brakes. As mentioned above, do this every couple years b/c brake fluid takes on moisture fast. There are a couple companies out there that make pumps to make bleeding a lot quicker if you go that route.
There are definitely write-ups for the rear and T-56 fluid changes in the maint. section on here that will give u exact fluid volumes and such. It was on an LT1 car, but no difference so check that out.

slayerized6

iTrader: (12)

coolant- take it to a shop and get it power flushed/drained/filled

rear end- believe i used Valvoline synthesis 80w90 plus GM LSD Additive. Use RTV and axle gasket if you can

trans- what until you change your clutch...or unless your grinding gears. used whats recommend...dexron III. Pennzoil synchomesh is either hit or miss with a lot of people

brakes- get a set of earl's solo bleeds...2nd best item on my car. DOT3 or DOT 4 is good.

clutch fluid- DOT 4. when you do your clutch swap, purchase a tick speedbleeder to make flushing your clutch easier than changing a tire (best item on my car)

you didnt list it, but dont forget about power steering- every once in a while i suck fluid out using the turkey baster method and add fresh fluid.

91RS383

I don't use RTV on my rear ends any more. It's a huge pain to clean next time you do the service. I buy a felpro paper gasket and coat it with grease. Then install the cover. It seals up great and comes off clean without scraping.

Don't buy the premixed coolant. It's a huge waste of cash. They charge the same ammount per gallon but you get 1/2 the product. You can buy distilled water and coolant cheaper.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

x100 on a gasket for the rear!!!

Unless you have a torsen get the LSD additive from GM. They recommend DINO fluid but I run synthetic that is rated for LSD + GM additive. 2 qt.s and you wil have some left over.

Tranny just run Dexron IMO.

Brakes just flush real good and I would be fine with good ole DOT III unless you see severe duty...

Berto

iTrader: (4)

Coolant is pretty easy, just takes time.

Take off the upper radiator hose (drain the radiator and put the plug back in) and run the car until the thermostat opens. Make sure you run a hose into the top of the radiator so your engine has water when the thermostat opens. During the whole process the thermostat will open a few times...keep going until clear water comes out.
Then (obviously you have to buy these before hand) instead of the hose...start putting in distilled water. This will prevent minerals from tap water from making it into your system. Once you have run through 3 gallons of distilled water. Button everything up and drain the radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant concentrate (not the 50/50) mix.

Drive the car...the water in the engine will eventually mix with the coolant concentrate in the radiator. After a day of driving...check the concentration of the coolant and add water or coolant depending on what the ratio is!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Best/easiest way to flush and get every drop of old coolant out. 6 minutes of work, 15 minutes to flush.

-Cold engine.
-Remove radiator fill cap.
-Remove the t-stat from the housing. Leave the housing attached to the rubber radiator hose, just remove the 2 housing bolts (2-3 minute job).
-Put t-stat housing back on. (1 minute) Just put one bolt in, no need to put them both in, there’s no pressure in the system during the flush.
-Take the entire radiator drain valve (petcock) "off" and let it drain, don't just open it. It'll drain faster with it off and that’s what you want. ((Buy a new petcock valve before starting this flush, sometimes they break when you remove them all the way just because they're cheap plastic, they're like $2.00))
-Take a hose and stick it in the radiator fill cap, running medium to high.
-Start the engine.
-Let it run for about 15-20 minutes or until the water is running out the drain CLEAR.
-When it does your entire system is clean.
-Remove the overflow reservoir from the car and clean it out real good. (I had to use gasoline to clean mine out because the sludge and grime was so thick inside. The gas broke it all down and then it flushed right out. Big clumps of black crap. Make sure the lines that go to the reservoir are also cleaned out. My sludge came from my power steering fluid leaking into my coolant system.)
-Put the t-stat back in.
-Put the overflow reservoir back in.
-Put the drain valve back in. Use the new one, what the hell.
-Put half a jug of Dexcool in the radiator. (Or if you live in very cold places, 1 to 1 ½ jugs of Dexcool)
-Fill the rest with water.
you do not need to use distilled water, clean hose water is just fine, just make sure your city water is clean and not total crap quality.

**Bleeding the system of air:
Start it up and let it run and warm up till the t-stat opens, you’ll see it flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down, immediately top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. I always massage the upper and lower hoses while its warming up to help move the air bubble by the t-stat on the engine side of the t-stat. Squeeze it rapidly and fully like 20 times each until it starts to flow. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens to make sure it’s not overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze those hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open.

O2Form

I used the Valvoline synthetic blend in the rear when i changed mine. It really made a huge difference over the factory fluid. Quieter and the car seems to move easier.

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

for the rear end use "the right stuff" by permatex to make the gasket. takes 5 minutes to fully seal, no problems with leaks