quiet knight

I have a 2002 camaro z28. Lately i have been having issue with the car stranding me periodically which is starting to get annoying. Intially after reading and doing research i thought it was the VATS system. So it is currently bypassed. This seemed to take care of the problem for a short time, but now it is back again.

Here is the issue. I can start the car every morning or when it is cold. But after driving for a period of time and shutting it off it wont start again. Turn the key on positon, all dash light work, radio works, power windows work. But when you fully turn the key nothing happens. When the cars does start up there is no issues when it cranks over. Idles and runs good except for the worn out clutch.

I really dont want to put anymore money into a car that strands me periodically. I barely drive it anymore because i dont when it going to work or not. There is nothing sweeter the a good sounding V8. But thats only when its running.

So far i have checked:
1. VATS bypass which is still working properly. Security light goes off after a few seconds.
2. all the fuses to make sure none were blown or loose.
3. Checked the clutch neutral safety switch to make sure its functioning properly.
4. Serviced the battery.

I need some direction so i can figure this issue out. I have read countless threads. I dont want have to remove parts if it is not necessary at this time.

myk

iTrader: (4)

When you say you turn the key on is the car cranking?

Check your fuel pressure. If you don't have a gauge, just turn the key ON and listen for a whirring, whining, whatever sound from the back of the car; that'll be your fuel pump. If it's at least turning on that's a good sign, then you can move on to checking the pressure. If it isn't, check the fuel pump relay (which ISN'T in the fuse panel or fuse block), wiring harness, etc.

By the way I HATE fuel pumps. I HATE THEM, I HATE THEM, I HATE THEM!!! Any time there's a problem in the world I blame fuel pumps! Crime, poverty, rape, war, disease! All brought on by bad fuel pumps!!!

quiet knight

thank you for the more insight. When I turn the key to the on position I can here the fuel pump in the back coming on.

I had the starter, alternator test everything passed. When the auto store conducted the test the print out stated that my start required 12.5 V initially and the settle around 11.07 V after the car was running. Is this normal?

Replaced the battery due to the original one having a dead cell even though it check out ok. I still suggested that they put a charge on it just to make sure nothing was wrong with it. The charge cause the acid to boil.

This car is an M6 and it will start when i a pop the clutch and run just fine.

1.Is recommended replacing the starter even if it checks out ok. The reason im asking is because Im getting ready to put a new clutch in the car.

2. What is the next trouble shoot step.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

So, did you just change your battery? That may have been it. If your battery was boiling under charge (when your car is warm, it has been charging) maybe it was just at the edge of not having enough power to start the car.

How did you know the battery had a bad cell?

DCfirebird967

i'am having this exact same problem in my car. i can push start my car and it will run fine. but when i put the key in and turn it to on the gauge lights come on and the fuel pump primes but i go to start the car and nothing happens. i took the starter out and had it tested and it was good.

also when the key is in the car and the door is open i dont hear the usual ding ding sound. and my dome lights are out as well. ive checked the fuses once and they seemed fine but im gonna double check them as well.

can anybody help us out?

perezpowerbuilders

Double check your starter connections , clean them real good with wire brush. also clean the starter ground on the frame. thats how I got rid of my problem! Hope that helps!

quiet knight

I going to pull out the starter this weekend. I tried to see if it was just the starter relay but the problem still continues. I'm leaning on what perezpowerbuilders stated. I going to go over all the connection around the starter and see if that fixes the problem.
If that is not it. I think that its the soleniod that preventing it from turning over.

I did replace my battery with a new one and snapped of the battery retainer bolt. Just another thing to fix. I appreciate all the help. And I soon as i find what was wrong with mine I will definitely pass on the inforamtion.
Anymore more advice or direction is always great appreciated.

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

does it happen EVERY time the car is warm or is it still intermittent? if its the latter, then i would still lean towards VATS( that being if when it does act up the security light stays on). i know you said you did the bypass though. otherwise i think you are going about it the right way.

quiet knight

This only happens when the car is warm. It will start ten out of ten times when its cold. But after i have driven her and turn the car off, it wont start. They only way i can getted started when she is warm is to pop the clutch.
The security light does go off prior to me actually moving the ignition from the on position to the start position.

MJK

iTrader: (3)

Just a quick list of the starting probs I have had over the years:

No start,no crank with security light...was VATS,now bypassed and works.

No start,no sec light with cranking.Was fuel pump (brother's car).Replaced pump,now works..

No start,no sec light and no crank.Was starter relay underhood fuse box.Now works.

No start,no crank and no sec light.Would make a metallic "clink" sound when the key was turned to start.Sounded like someone hitting your exhaust pipes with a screwdriver.Was the starter.This problem was intermittent but got worse over time.Hasn't done it since replacing the starter.

Just some ideas,hope you get it fixed and post up what the problem turns out to be...

Good luck...

11SECSS

iTrader: (199)

Sounds like the starter relay.

quiet knight

I thought it was the starter relay as well. I replace it with a new one and drove it around and the car wouldnt start when she got warm. This problem seems to be wide spread and can be caused by so many different things from what i have read.

I appreciate all the insight because this is truly frustrating to know end.

z28camaro1996

iTrader: (1)

if its a manual try the safty ignition switch attached to the clutch pedal. to test it. you can take the switch off and when you pull the plug out take a short peice of wire and stick it in both slots of the plug. if the car starts after that. then then switch is bad

quiet knight

I will try and bypass the clutch safety switch as well. And see if that fixes the problem.