Squeaking belt/Idler pulley
02-01-2010, 06:46 PM
#1
Squeaking belt/Idler pulley I know search is your friend buuut I need some help. I took off my old Idler pulley repacked it with grease and was about to put it on instead i went to Autozone they came back with this thing that was too small. So the manager went and found one that was similar in size. It looked about right. . . went home to install it and. . . yep it rubbed.
So I took it back, got my original REPACKED pulley and put it on and noise is still there like nothing changed.
Ok i can say for a fact that this noise started after i replaced my motor mounts. Could it be the alternator bracket?
I tried looking up the following parts that were listed in the TSB report from this post: HERE
Where the **** are these parts why are they so hard to find?! I'm tired of my car sounding like a mobile canary nest! Help a guy out.
So I took it back, got my original REPACKED pulley and put it on and noise is still there like nothing changed.
Ok i can say for a fact that this noise started after i replaced my motor mounts. Could it be the alternator bracket?
I tried looking up the following parts that were listed in the TSB report from this post: HERE
Where the **** are these parts why are they so hard to find?! I'm tired of my car sounding like a mobile canary nest! Help a guy out.
02-01-2010, 06:53 PM
#2
Search actually isn't your friend...who wants to sit and read for sometimes hours to find what you need. Just post a thread.
I guess it could be the alt bracket, but everything that the serpentine belt goes around is attached to the engine block, so I don't see why that would have change by replacing the motor mounts.
When they start to squeal, its usually impossible to stop them.
If you have the cash, get the Katech fixed belt tensioner. If you do you will buy a new belt and probably have it for the life of the car.
.
I guess it could be the alt bracket, but everything that the serpentine belt goes around is attached to the engine block, so I don't see why that would have change by replacing the motor mounts.
When they start to squeal, its usually impossible to stop them.
If you have the cash, get the Katech fixed belt tensioner. If you do you will buy a new belt and probably have it for the life of the car.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 02-01-2010 at 06:59 PM.
02-02-2010, 09:51 AM
#3
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The idler being a smaller diameter won't matter at all as long as the belt will still tension properly. The idler will just spin a little faster due to the reduction in diameter.
02-02-2010, 10:12 AM
#4
my AC idler was the culprit and I thought id never figure it out, just do a little pokin around under the hood and check all of em. should be pretty cheap/easy if its a tensioner or something of the sort, maybe it was just bad timing since it went bad right after you did motor mounts lol. Alternator bracket is a popular second
02-02-2010, 03:35 PM
#7
Yea i spun the Alt. it is just fine. I just think its b*llsh*t that i go to autozone to get an idler pulley and they come back with one that is SIGNIFICANTLY different.
I'm gonna go take the bracket off and put it back on and see what that does. I NEVER torque anything to spec i just tighten it to what i think is about right.
I'm gonna go take the bracket off and put it back on and see what that does. I NEVER torque anything to spec i just tighten it to what i think is about right.
Trending Topics
02-02-2010, 03:54 PM
#8
TECH Regular
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ricerville
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Back when I had my 1996 3800 'bird, one of my idlers actually broke and FELL OFF while the engine was running! I kid you not! It was plastic, and the center just broke off.
That being said, I think I remember having to go to the dealer to get a new idler. Hope that helps!
That being said, I think I remember having to go to the dealer to get a new idler. Hope that helps!
02-02-2010, 05:56 PM
#9
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-03-2010, 06:40 PM
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: East, TN
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just get some belt dressing and start spraying pullies. Spray them one at a time, when the squeak stops thats the bad pulley. This is what I did on my car, ended up being my A/C belt tensioner.
02-15-2010, 12:50 PM
#14
one thing to do to diffentiate between the a/c belt and main belt is to run the car with one belt at a time installed. whichever one removed nets you a quiet engine will tell you whether is the a/c belt or pulleys, or if its the main belt or pulleys.
02-15-2010, 01:31 PM
#15
11 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CLARENCE, NY
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Some info that might help someone else in the future.
Allot of the auto parts stores dont list items for the 01-02 cars for some reason.
If you search for a 99 Camaro/Firebird Idler I bet they have one.
Allot of the auto parts stores dont list items for the 01-02 cars for some reason.
If you search for a 99 Camaro/Firebird Idler I bet they have one.
02-24-2010, 03:29 AM
#16
The TSB dated March 2000 lists the new part numbers for the idler pulley and alternator bracket, 12563326, 12563327. It was a mid 2000 change on the production line. The earlier pulley WONT fit on the later bracket. The pulley is the same size but the bearing is wider on the later one. The aftermarket is scarce on the different pulleys. You can find the early one easy,the later one, not so much. I had to special order DAYCO 89159 from pimp boys, 40$. The bearings in all the pulleys do not last forever, cheap insurance to replace all of them........... How do you repack the sealed bearings in these pulleys??????? 
02-24-2010, 08:43 AM
#17
The TSB dated March 2000 lists the new part numbers for the idler pulley and alternator bracket, 12563326, 12563327. It was a mid 2000 change on the production line. The earlier pulley WONT fit on the later bracket. The pulley is the same size but the bearing is wider on the later one. The aftermarket is scarce on the different pulleys. You can find the early one easy,the later one, not so much. I had to special order DAYCO 89159 from pimp boys, 40$. The bearings in all the pulleys do not last forever, cheap insurance to replace all of them........... How do you repack the sealed bearings in these pulleys???????
02-24-2010, 08:43 AM
#18
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had an idler squeaking and had to pack it, install, run it, and do a remove and pack again before it quit. If you spin everything with the belts off and can't tell, I would remove the AC belt and run it. At least you would narrow down which belt it is on (eliminating three on the AC side).
02-27-2010, 01:01 AM
#19
I had an idler squeaking and had to pack it, install, run it, and do a remove and pack again before it quit. If you spin everything with the belts off and can't tell, I would remove the AC belt and run it. At least you would narrow down which belt it is on (eliminating three on the AC side).
03-05-2010, 06:43 PM
#20
Well I just got a DEALER alternator bracket and a DEALER idler pulley that fit on the bracket.
the pulley rubs the bracket.
What
The
****
And if I tighten the pulley too much it wont spin. So now i have it on there. I'm debating on whether to start it up. Also got a $30 gatorback belt.
I guess im wondering how can DEALER OEM parts not be compatible with one another? BTW it rub with and without the dustjacket and washer.
the pulley rubs the bracket.
What
The
****
And if I tighten the pulley too much it wont spin. So now i have it on there. I'm debating on whether to start it up. Also got a $30 gatorback belt.
I guess im wondering how can DEALER OEM parts not be compatible with one another? BTW it rub with and without the dustjacket and washer.
