BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

Im going to attempt to fix my air conditioner myself. Need yalls help.

Im assuming its leaking. The compressor works(last time I tried), but was blowing hot air. Had it recharged, blew cold air for a week, but gradually went back to blowing hot air.

So how do I find out where its leaking from? And when I find the leak, how do I fix it?

I dont want to take it to a shop, because it would probably be expensive, and I dont trust anyone to work on my car.

Any help would be appreciated.

fleetmgr

Get refrigerant with dye in it, and recharge the system. Where you see the dye coming out is where the leak(s) are. There's a good chance that the leak will be from the crankshaft seal on the compressor, so it may get expensive no matter what. You can't replace that seal by itself, so you'll have to get a compressor if that's the case.

BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

Well damn it. I dont have that kind of money to spend. Would it be cheaper to buy a system out of a part out thread on here and just install it?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Put the dye in, find the leak (likely the compressor IMO) and change just that part out. Then recharge it with auto store freon. This will work fine. Dont listen to the guys that are OCD about everything

fleetmgr

And 99.9% of the time, that "Pro" is gonna put dye in it, won't have an electronic leak detector, and won't have a gauge capable of measuring in microns. In fact, the only time I've ever seen one of those in nearly 40 years of doing this is in a test lab.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

what do you have for refrigeration tools?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I understand your way is the "perfect" way to do it. I have swapped bunches of ac compressors this season alone and every one one has worked perfect. So cold it makes you have chill bumps. Making it seem like your way will produce colder air is just plain stupid. If your system is functioning before, and the compressor develops a leak or goes out, then you still have a fully functioning system minus one component. Common sense tells you if you replace that faulty component, the system will resume function. Argue with that all you want, but 99% here who have common sense will agree with me

fleetmgr

never said I hadn't seen one. I've seen plenty, but not in service shops.

And as it was with the oil used in R-12 systems, the enemy is acid, regardless of the oil used.

[/quote]
Sure, get them at Harbor Freight all day for about $250. Compare that with a can of R134a containing dye that you can charge the customer for. Most shops don't have them. Not saying that they aren't right or useful.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

So what you're saying is, you dont care. Right?

fleetmgr

the electronic leak detector. Saw one there last week in Joplin, but may be wrong on the price.

Acid forms in any A/C oil once you get moisture in it, be it mineral or synthetic. It was as much of a problem with R12

The number of times you find a leaking evaporator in your career you'll be able to count on your hands and have fingers to spare. Much more likely to have a leaking condenser from a rock hit. As to how, process of elimination.

That's because you haven't learned yet that there may be more than one right answer to any given problem. Your method works for you, and you're comfortable with it, so run with it. That doesn't mean it's the only way, or the only "right" way.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

thats about all you will probly need + r134a oh and if you wanna do a really good job cleaning out the system before charge use nitrogen.

You have more refrigeration tools than me btw and I manage to keep up my ac so you should be good. Just changed the compressor in my civic last week.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

I use a sniffer too. . . But, you can not say it is a 100%

The dye method is also tried and true. Nothing wrong with it at all.


Find the leak, repair it along with supporting parts.


Vacuum the **** out of the system.

Then refill. . . . . . Yes you can do it a few different ways and not just one of them is the 100% right one.

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Two thoughts...

1. After using dye to find the leak (they have refigerant cans with dye in it) then fix whatever is leaking. Do not break open the system until you have the parts needed to finish it! After it is all tightened up again, use one can of refigerant (gas only, not liquid, meaning the can being right side UP) making sure to do it SLOWELY (WITHOUT THE MOTOR RUNNING!!!), it'll chase any moisture out through the venting high side to blow out the system from low to high (not getting into how illegal this is but almost any home auto repair residue disposal is illegal now if you don't take it to a recycling center). You have to chase this moisture out because it'll ice up the needle valve and the system will not work! Do it slow, don't open the valve on the can very far, and vent everything out the high side fitting. After almost all this (venting) can is used (almost all) close all the valves off, then put in another can of r134 with dye. If it'll run with the one can, check for leaks again, if not put more in. If you don't find any more leaks, recharge to total capacity. Most newer cars show the system capacity, and if you put in the lesser amount of full cans it should give you a good idea if the leak is repaired. Another point (important), if you spilled/lost any of the oil, make a guess, and get the r134 with the approximate amount of oil you lost already in it when your adding the r134 when verifying the leak is fixed after flushing the moisture out of the lines.

2. After a week or so of it working and no more dye seen/present, make sure you have the correct amount of refigerant, then pat your self on the back for saving a ton of money!

again,

BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

I appreciate all the help guys.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

When you said this did you mean that your hoses and gauges are not meant for r134a? If so then you need adapters like I had to get. What size are your manifold hoses?

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Oh I didnt catch that before lol. OPPS!
I bought my manifold 8 years ago for comercial and residential hvac. Non auto. I didnt wanna cut any hoses so I got some really nice adapters. They were kinda hard to find btw. These are my adapters that hook up to my 1/4 hoses.

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

Bro Inc not to sidetrack the OP...but I would give my left nut to find someone in my neck of the woods who cared as much as you do about car a/c work, where do you live? Ijust did a 600 mile trip in the blistering heat, my a/c works but does have a leak...any interest? PM to discuss...

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Bro Inc... it IS NOT a waste of a can because you do not need to buy/rent/borrow a pump. Much cheaper than buying/renting a vacuum pump assembly and it works as good as a pump if the system wasn't open very long (couple hours max). People have been doing that for decades without a problem and if you have to open a system more than maybe 5 times for that vehicle, then I would suggest buying a new vehicle. A can of r134 costs how much? How many compressors/receivers/condensors that were installed new were properly cleaned of manufacturing debris? Or crud/grease removed when rubbing up against stuff while installed during installation? Unless you know for sure that pump your borrowing/renting is in good shape, it may not even work properly. Before you mention the gauges would tell you your at a vacuum, this is the simple 'no-expensive-tools' method that saves a lot of $ and third party rip-offs. Anyone with a little sense and experience knows all those tools aren't neccessary, but they sure do make someone look impressive/knowledgeable/expensive. I do quality work on MY vehicles WITHOUT all that crap. Its not what you do and know, its how you do what you know. Chasing any potential moisture out of a system slowly does the job. The key is to not rush it, it (the r134) will chase practically all that moisture out without leaving any measurable amount to freeze on the expansion valve pin/seat. If someone wants to hire you, so what? If someone doesn't want to tackle it and hire someone, so what. If someone wants to do it themselves and takes his or her time and double/triple checks his or her work they can and will save a lot of money. Your comment about being a parts changer, check out damn near any automotive service department and see how many do it by the service manual, or do it by shortcut (many times breaking stuff and not owning up to it thereby sticking the customer again). I'm not a parts changer, not by a long shot. Another thing, your mentioning of stealing from work suggests you take many shortcuts anyway so get off your soapbox. Not to mention the satisfaction they get that they didn't have to rent/hire someone who inflates their repairs and 'borrows/steals' stuff from work. What does the Bro in Bro Inc stand for anyway? Maybe Big rip off????


Shame DIY's are a dying breed, seems they are making them more and more high-tech to make people get expensive tools/test equipment to keep their stuff working top-notch.

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Oh, Bro, one final thought... You vacuum to remove the condensibles (moisture in smaller-than-vapor form). If they condense enough on the needle valve when the r134 expands and cools, ice forms and blocks the flow. Shhhh, its a

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Bro, your words: "I don't do automotive often enough to buy (or steal from where I work) a big can of 134a.". Or putting a pump on a customers system then going off and doing something else while your supposed to be on the clock on that job (another opportunity to rack up the bucks for either yourself or the boss).

Guess you do just enough to buy or steal from where (you) work, small cans or anything else you need, huh?

Never ceases to amaze me when those who get busted resort to cussing and raging on, like a moron.

For the what-its-worth department, you CAN purge the air in an automotive system, that 'orifice' is open at ambient (remember I said slowly) AND if the system was opened up for a short period of time its not going to have any measurable suspended moisture in its oil. Capping off the open lines initially will reduce as much as possible intrusion of ambient air, and allow the receiver/drier to absorb any residual molecules of moisture You would know that if you just wanted to help and not push a new receiver/drier because some book recommends it thereby jacking the repair bill which is the ultimate purpose of repair manuals/shops. Finally, I am not arguing with you, you tried to insult my decades of diy (least cost repair) experience with BS, got called, and got pissed. Then you just resorted to the typical rant commensurate with your book knowledge and years of passing yourself off as a kind honest person.

Ultimately DIY saves big bucks, and its just as effective as taking it in to those who have all that expensive crap. Just because many don't know how or are too busy to want to get dirty and do it themselves, and pay someone to repair it, doesn't make diy wrong, or those who do it themselves are not doing their repairs right. It just means they arent doing it PERFECTLY. I bet you arent either (do you purge the line between the can and the low pressure fitting when recharging the system? BE HONEST, Do you have any idea how many 'A/C' specialists I see not doing that purge?

Done with you, peace out all!