I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Just like the title says, I want to buy some guagues b/c I hear they don't run too much money. I'd also like to get some quality refrigerant if anyone know where to buy it - I don't want that Vatozone crap b/c it is worthless. I have an air compressor so I could flush my own lines and everything, I just need to get the R134a and a little more oil to get this thing cooling properly.

jam01

if you just want some gauges you could try your local auto parts store. or you could try a co northern, i know they have a website along with harbor freight and i am sure there are a bunch of others company's out there as well. now if you are looking to evacuate you ac system, that requires a pump and a storage tank basically a machine that does all the work. last time i looked they were quite expensive for the do it yourself guy or girl.

fleetmgr

Harbor Freight has the gauges. Why do you say that AZ refrigerant is crap? It's the same as any other store has.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

My exact answer and question.


VatoZone 134a is just as good as any other. They also sell the 5 gallon tanks. Get one of those if you wanna get "it was done by a shop" experience.


I hope you also have a "true" vacuum pump and not a POS that hooks onto a air compressor.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Praytell what this "true" vacuum pump looks like??? I got the gauges from Harbor Freight -$50! Not a bad deal at all, now I just have to get a pressure guide for this Volvo I'm working on and I should be good to go.

I need to figure out where it's leaking from so my first thought is the high pressure side o-ring on the compressor b/c those are the usual suspects when a system first starts to leak.

fleetmgr

You should have looked at the vacuum pumps at Harbor Freight while you were there.

No, the most likely suspect is the compressor shaft seal, in which case you'll need a new compressor.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I'll have to check it out, the car only has around 70k miles on it so I thought changing out the receiver/drier, some o-rings, and checking for leaks would do it but you think compressor?

slow

iTrader: (7)

The autozone r134a, you have to look for the regular stuff, not the first charge, not the arctic chill, not the leak seal, not the stuff with the dye. it should be near the bottom of the AC display with all of death kits near the top, or the cans with the gauges attached on the top.

Personally I go to carquest and get the dupont 12oz cans for about $7, cheaper than autozone and not as crowded. Advanced has regular r134a as well, thier brand, which is fine.

Harborfreight gauges are decent, I've used mine several times with good results.

A real vacuum pump can get down to 29.x inches, the ones you use with the AC compressor are lucky to get down to 28". I have a Robinair 15600 pump which I picked up off of craigslist for a good deal. Better quality than the harborfreight pumps, but the harborfreight pumps are better than the air compressor stuff.

I would check the autozone on the pump, a couple of them around here will rent a pump and the gauges, (rent, meaning you buy them, and you get used ones, and if you return then, you get your money back)

Ryan

fleetmgr

The shaft seal is always the first to go in my experience. This is especially true if it's sat idle for a while.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

It has sat around for a while, I'll check the system later on tonight and see how everything looks. I'll have to look into a better pump if the air compressor ones aren't preferred. I'm guessing that the shaft seal can't be replaced by itself, is the compressor not serviceable?

fleetmgr

No, the compressor isn't generally serviceable....not because of anything iherent, but because you won't be able to get the parts.
The only problem with the air eductors is most people don't have gauges, nor can they maintain enough air velocity through one over time. You have to keep the 29.5 or so inches of vacuum on the system long enough to do some good - minimum of an hour or so, and I prefer at least 2 hrs. Hard to do with most home air compressors, and even some shop compressors. The whole point of the vacuum is to get the moisture out of the oil, which is why the time. Getting the air out is the easy part.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Good to know, hope it isn't the compressor. I'll prolly just have a shop vacuum it down after I find and fix the problem.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Decided to work on it myself to see if it was something I could solve. Turn on the car and put it on Max A/C - no compressor click. Use the low side pressure fitting next to the receiver/drier to try and feed some refrigerant w/UV dye - won't take it. Checked the system with my blacklight to try and ascertain the leaks location - can't find anything. I'm freaking stuck. It may well be the compressor but where the hell is the evidence!? It's like my refrigerant just magically disappeared and I know it had UV dye in their before b/c whoever worked on it last put the little sticker that indicated UV dye in the system. Any ideas???

Edit: I got underneath the compressor to see if I could get a better look at it, definitely saw some UV dye crust that looks like it came out of the front side of the compressor. Also looks like the belt slung some of the dye onto the timing belt cover confirming my compressor suspicions. Anyone know how much an A/C compressor for a 97 Volvo S90 2.9L I6 runs???

fleetmgr

You can't leak check it without the system running, nor can you get any refrigerant to go in without the system running.
Incidentally, I just came home from Harbor Freight...they have an electronic leak detector for about $70. When you were looking for the dye, did you look between the compressor clutch and the compressor housing?

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Yes I did, that's where the leak was - at least that's where it most likely originated b/c I saw dye coming from the space between the clutch and compressor, most likely it leaked down onto the pulley and then got slung onto the various other areas.

I thought that I may be able to force some refrigerant in b/c the can is pressurized but I was wrong. Incidentally the only place where any dye was whatsoever came from near the compressor and that is it. Nothing near any of the other seals at all. What does an electronic leak detector consist of?

fleetmgr

A 9v battery, a probe, and an intervening circuit board or 2 in a fancy plastic case. They can detect a leak down to 1oz. (yes, one ounce) per year in size.

I figured that's what you'd find. Those seals don't like sitting.
All things being equal, your system and the can of refrigerant should have been at nearly the same pressure, which would have been whatever corresponded to ambient temperature.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Very nice, that would have been useful before this whole problem started. I may have to pick one of those up later. Should I override the pressure switch and force the compressor to kick on or just go ahead and bite the bullet on another compressor?

fleetmgr

Your only option to a new compressor is a system death kit, one of the guys with a sealant in it. Not a recommended course of action, think what stop leak does to a radiator/heater core and you'll have the idea.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Lol, not happening. $300 vs. >$1,000 for all the crap you clog; not even considering it.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I'm picking up a compressor and a receiver/drier, I need to find out what compressor oil this thing takes. Also when I take out the old one and install the new one should I have the system vacuumed down once the new one is in or should I do it before and after?