AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

My a/c worked perfectly and then when I pulled motor a few weeks ago the line going to the top of the condenser broke. I replaced the line and had a shop vac and re-charge it. It worked perfectly for the test and then let car sit for 10 min and went to try it again and the compressor cycles for about 10 min and then works great until you turn car off and let it sit and turn the a.c back on. Air is cold and works great after being on for 10-15 min

Edit:

So I guess I already have a new orifice tube since I replaced the entire line that connects to top of passenger side of condenser (new gm piece).

fleetmgr

No, you probably don't. The orifice tube goes into the pipe at the evaporator, not the condenser.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

So its not in the bottom line? That's the one I replaced.

fleetmgr

Where is that located on your car? If it's at the firewall, then maybe. If it's not at the firewall, then no.

slow

iTrader: (7)

The bottom pipe is where the orifice tube is located. That picture is the engine side of the evaporatorat the firewall.

Did you install an orifice tube? if not, that would likely cause a major issue.

Ryan

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Yes, that is by the firewall


I didn't install orifice tube, would one not have been in there if I bought that entire line from gm? Guess either way I need to pull it apart, so I will check.

fleetmgr

No, it wouldn't be there. The orifice tube goes in the other side, on the firewall, where that line bolts to.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Thanks! Never messed with a/c before


Should I replace drier also?

fleetmgr

Replacing the drier anytime the system is open is a good idea.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

The orifice tube was actually in the line and it was new

slow

iTrader: (7)

that is correct, the tube is in that line, good to know it was included.

I would have the shop re vacuum the system, replace the drier and then charge the system again. Disconnect the battery after charging the system to clear any codes. Do you have any datalogging software to read the AC pressure when the compressor is cycling.

Ryan

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

How far do you press orifice tube in? until it stops or? My friend works at sears so I can use gauges on his machine to see what pressures are doing.

beerwhiskeyjoe

You should just need to push it in place with your hand then bolt the line up.

You are gonna need to hook up some gauges and check both low and high side pressures before you can know ****. Could be bordering on low pressure and tripping a switch, or if its overcharged I think there might be a sensor for that too. Or it could be the drier/accumulator you didn't replace.. you need to find pressures and saturation temperatures to figure out what is going on and what part of the system is doing what.

Could also be coincidence and be a mechanical failure with a safety switch as well, I'd go through and check for any wiring you might have half way tore up when you dropped the motor out.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Update:

Got a new GM dryer and installed it in and had it vac and re-charged immediately after. While under vac I heard a slight pop by the orifice tube and system dropped vac from 30 psi to 25 psi and then it rose back to 30. After recharging it everything worked great for about 5 minutes. Then we turned car off for about 10 minutes and started it up again to check it. Compressor was cycling again and wasn't working right We re-vacuumed system and tried to re-fill it again with no luck


I guess the system has blockage somewhere? Here are some crappy cell phone videos of high and low gauges

Showing system reached 30 psi vac:



1st re-charge with compressor cycling



2nd re-charge low pressure was in retard section on gauge :





Also, we put in 1.5 lbs of refrigerant and the first time machine only recovered .73 lbs and second time was around .55 lbs.......but we see no leaks so I'm guessing something is plugged up. Any ideas or do I have to replace everything

HotSilverBird

Please explain how it was cycling or how often it was on and off? Two things i can thing of is 1 replace the pressure transducer and 2 vacuum the system longer and while vacuuming turn the compressor to be sure you get all the moisture out. If a little moisture is left behind it can cause all kinds of weirdness AFTER the system gets cold.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

It was under vac for 15 minutes each time and we did 2 complete re-charges today and 2 last week.

After letting the car sit for 10 minutes after everything worked the compressor would start cycling immediately after turning ac on and it would cut on and off every 2-3 seconds.

After this last charge the ac didn't work at all and low pressure gauge was reading maxed out and high pressure was at like 210 psi.

The entire time the dryer was cold and getting condensation on it

BOA279

iTrader: (1)

15 minutes under vac will do almost nothing. Often people let it got for an hour to 6 hours depending on how good the vacuum is. Correct me if Im wrong but even a slight amount of moisture will cause major problems (blockage)....Id vacuum it for much longer just to be sure. Also wait 30 minutes before you recharge to see if your losing the vacuum (leak)

HotSilverBird

yep sounds like ice is forming someplace

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Damn, that long? how am I supposed to do that? harbor freight vac pump?

fleetmgr

Yup, theres will work. You should be able to draw a vacuum (minimum of 29.5", and deeper is better), isolate the vac. pump and walk away. If pressure has come up ANY AT ALL after 2-3 hours, you still have a leak or some moisture boiled away. Draw the vacuum again and repeat. If it happens again, you have a leak.