1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Background: For the past few weeks I have had an intermittent idle problem. I was thinking it was the IAC valve, but could never get it to fail when I needed it to. Today, it left me hanging. When this issue would occur, it would only idle with me on the accelerator. I could restart the car a few minutes later and it would be fine. Today, I went to go to lunch and it was doing this crap. A buddy and I went in his car instead. I figured when I head home, it will work for sure, as it has always just been a matter of waiting 30 minutes, TOPS. This has happened about 4-5 times over the past 3 weeks. When I went to head home, still doing this crap. I limped it home using the right foot on the accelerator and left foot on the brake. It is mostly highway, so it wasn't an issue and I go against the grain of traffic, so stop and go is non-existent. When I get home, I pull the IAC and have my gf turn on the key so I could see if the motor would still spin the worm gear. Check, the motor was still good. Then she cut the key off, and it completely unwound and shot the valve and spring flying into the engine compartment. Found the parts, but not worried about putting it back together for now, but the damn valve won't go into the receptacle in the TB. Somehow, this must have of gotten warn out, sealing the port off completely which didn't allow any air into the intake aside from the small hole on the TB blade. This is/was my issue, great! I will just go pick up another IAC, HA! Those rip-offs want $85+ for that part. Thats not even GM parts, those are the cheapo knock-offs.

My question is, since the motor is still good, as well as the worm gear, anyone ever had this issue and got the rubber valve to actually conform back to spec? I am thinking about soaking it in oil overnight. My thought process is that all of the carb cleaner, electrical cleaner, etc dried it out. I tried lubing it up and it is still pretty tight.

Also, does anyone know the wiring for the motor? I was thinking if I knew the wiring and voltage, I could just give it some power in the right terminals and get the motor to re-wind and pull the valve in, once I figure out if I can get it back in the TB.

TIA.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

While you have the it apart, might as well clean the end of the stopper. Also clean the hole in the TB. Lightly lube the worm gear with white grease.

To reassemble, put the spring in the motor, and stick the plunger/worm gear in gently while someone turns on the key. If it isn't damaged, it will screw itself back together. With the key still on, reinstall the IAC motor.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Thats what I did last night. Too bad I ended up having to spend $120 on a new IAC Valve...

ls1jorge

iTrader: (5)

I'm in the need of buying a iac, how was it after installing the new one??

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

unfortunately, 100% perfect

killagt

iTrader: (3)

holy crap, it cost that much for that little part, what brand and where did you buy it ?

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

BWD @ O'Reilly's. Autozone had one brand for $82.99. I would of bought it, but none in Houston had stock. Advance had (3) different kinds. A cheap one, probably the same as Autozone, for $92, an AC Delco for $128, and the BWD for $154. Advance also was out of stock on the cheap one. O'Reilly's only had the BWD for $116 and they had numerous stores with stock. Funny how that works...

ls1jorge

iTrader: (5)

Thats cool man lucky for you got your car driving right, my car still like **** but hopefully it's my iac sensor, in 2 weeks ima finally work on it lol