Yahelou

iTrader: (23)

I just did a complete top end rebuild (cam, heads, all gaskets) and changed the rod bolts on my motor. when i reinstalled the oil pan, i made sure to use rtv sealant on the necessary areas. so i have been running the car on regular motor oil just to break it in for about 300 miles. i noticed an oil leak around the pan. lookin at the leak closely, i see oil accumulating around the bolts for the starter and also around where the bellhousing and oil pan meet. it isnt a major leak, very minor, but it is annoying. i torqued the oil pans to the proper torque. i have a feelin its the rear main seal, but i hope not. what u guys think?

Yahelou

iTrader: (23)

anyone??

laytoncamaroz28

iTrader: (10)

ya it cound be the rear main seal, or it could be the back of the oil pan. when i did my cam swap, mine leaked right above the oil filter where there is consant pressure

Yahelou

iTrader: (23)

thanks man. anyone else have some input?

blitzace12

iTrader: (1)

I was told that a cork gasket was better to use. Is it possible that the torque specs are for a cork gasket? Those would be much lower wouldn't they?

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

Your rear cover might not have aligned with the pan,and the rtv missed the spot.Or pull the starter and see if the leak is coming from the rear seal area

WarmWeatherBird

Dunno if it's something you'd consider trying, but for what it's worth - I developed the same oil leak. I hadn't changed anything out - just seals & gaskets getting old. It's my 2nd firebird and my 2nd time dealing with the leak. 1st time was covered under warranty - this time was outside of warranty period. (insert swear string here)

I was reading about everything in the various perf forums and found some folks who had tried a product called White Shepherd. (sp?) I googled it in all directions reading everyone's opinion I could find and decided to give it a go. Dunno if it would work for you - but for me - LOVE LOVE LOVE the results. It's been 8 months - I've driven the car cross country - thru the Mojave and Florida - and not the first drop on the floor. I have an automatic 2002 ws6. And I like to drive it hard and fast (who doesn't?) - so it's not like it's been babied.

I think it runs about $20 - but that stuff WORKED FOR ME!!! I know some folks are anti-additives - but my experience was solid and seen the first day. If I remember correctly, instructions are to pour it in - drive around for 2 hours and then check it in the morning. Easy 'nuff!! (I think I had my oil changed before I did it - but I don't remember that being something they said you need to do)

I'd add it to any other car I owned in a heartbeat.

Good Luck!

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

You can't use a cork gasket on an LS1 engine. And besides that, cork gaskets are complete garbage. They never seal 100%, weep oil, and usually need to be replaced very soon after being changed. They are cheap and old school, some cheap gasket kits still include them for small block chevys and Fords.

The LS engines use an aluminum pan gasket that seals better than any cork or rubber gasket ever could. Its rigid, so it can't buldge out or soak up oil, and it fits very precisely. The key is to make sure its aligned correctly, clean, and properly torqued.