Random Misfire P0300 started today in the RAIN
11-07-2010, 04:58 PM
#21
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hmm, so it could be anything electrical?
11-07-2010, 10:29 PM
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Does your car have a cold air intake? If so it could be possible that you could've got some water on the maf giving you funny readings... How good is your scanner can you watch livedata on your maf, tp.... I would take a look there since it just did it in the rain
11-08-2010, 07:55 AM
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I have an SLP lid...Yesterday I drove it and codes P0301 and P0650 came up. When driving it home P0300 came back on and P0650 is still there. I'll try changing plug/plug wire on CYlinder 1. How do I fix P0650?
11-08-2010, 07:16 PM
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Okay the P0300 keeps coming back, its the only code now. Light flashes and the car runs very rough. Is it possible that the MAF is bad? Can I disconnect it and see if it drives better. Can I drive the car around with it disconnected?
11-08-2010, 08:09 PM
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Okay I just noticed when at night when the autolights are on there is a "humming/crackling buzz" noise near the light swich/fusebox area...when I turn the healights to the on position the noise mostly goes away with some residual cracklin'. Is that a short, or is something not grounded properly??? I recently installed HIDs...i got 55w HIDs no Relay, and they work good.
11-08-2010, 08:57 PM
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I had the same issue with mine a little while back. Went through some water and ended up getting some in the connector. Check it and make sure its dry. I used a hair dryer to dry out the connector leading up to the 02 sensor and ended up having to buy new O2. Fried the ******. It was only 2 or 3 inches of water, but at 60 mph it will cause havok.
11-08-2010, 09:16 PM
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Okay I just noticed when at night when the autolights are on there is a "humming/crackling buzz" noise near the light swich/fusebox area...when I turn the healights to the on position the noise mostly goes away with some residual cracklin'. Is that a short, or is something not grounded properly??? I recently installed HIDs...i got 55w HIDs no Relay, and they work good.
I also have an SLP lid and have never seen enough water in my intake to cause a MAF malfunction/stumble, or any amount of water that I can remember.
Last edited by Kevin01Z28; 11-08-2010 at 09:25 PM.
11-11-2010, 12:59 PM
#29
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update: I brought the car to the dealership and they cleaned out the fuel injection system and adjusted the cam and crankshaft timing. The guy said that could be the problem and also the sparkplugs and wires could be the problem. They were gonna charge me $600+ for a sparkplug and wire change so I just told him to do the timing and cleaning. He did that and changed plug wire for #7...They charged me $340 for that. When I drove the car home the car was fine but then started to miss again! When I drove it later in the day the car ran fine. It seems that every other time I start the car it misfires. When I notice the car starts to run rough I shut it off and start it again, and the miss goes away! This is kinda odd. My next step is to change the plugs and wires. What do you guys think?
11-12-2010, 01:55 PM
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update: I brought the car to the dealership and they cleaned out the fuel injection system and adjusted the cam and crankshaft timing. The guy said that could be the problem and also the sparkplugs and wires could be the problem. They were gonna charge me $600+ for a sparkplug and wire change so I just told him to do the timing and cleaning. He did that and changed plug wire for #7...They charged me $340 for that. When I drove the car home the car was fine but then started to miss again! When I drove it later in the day the car ran fine. It seems that every other time I start the car it misfires. When I notice the car starts to run rough I shut it off and start it again, and the miss goes away! This is kinda odd. My next step is to change the plugs and wires. What do you guys think?
Its pretty far fetched to think that plugs and wires will cause a dead miss like you described in earlier posts, but anything is possible depending on there condition. You also said that it does fine when its cold/warming up, or open loop. Now the miss is intermittent, and stops im guessing for a brief time after you stop the engine and restart it.
The dealership had to have scanned your car, did they look at the o2 readings, or any other sensors? Sounds like they just read the code and changed some parts. The oscillations should bounce somewhere between 100 - 900mv's while in closed loop, sometimes a little lower than 100. When my o2 was going bad it was reading as high 1100mv, but not always missing until it would just flatline. Then it would run complete ****, ses light would blink, P0300 code. When i commanded open loop the miss was gone. I changed to o2's (went ahead and did both) runs perfect.
The dealership should easily be able to diagnose this.. My advice since you payed them $340, take it back and make them fix it since they didn't the first time.
