getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

First off im not really a newbie, but didnt know where to post this.I have a 01 WS6 that sat a month while I built my rear end and also did the drill mod since I always just ignored it and have had the tranny out 3x to build,LS7 cltch,new slave. I went to start it after doing the rear end and drill mod and the starter just clicked and security light flashed and dinged rapidly( like a slot machine hitting jack pot except for NO jack pot). I checked batt and tapped on starter sol, then remembered I had screwed the switch/relay for clutch pedal in about 3 threads when I did the drill mod to see if the pedal would not come up so high, so I turned it back 1or2 times and the car fired up and drove fine 15mi(2 days). Then it did it again and I wiggled the clutch switch/sensor and it then started and ran normal again for 70mi(4 days) but then the T/B collant line busted while driving and I got home quickly and let it cool and had to add 1 1/2gal to the radiator. My temp got to 230 and with my 160 thermo and being untuned it still never gets over 195. When I went to start the car it did the same thing again as the first 2x. This time wiggling wires etc. didnt work. I got pissed after I checked the batt,alt,str and all are within 6 months old and all good, I even had them all tested to double check even though my FLUKE meter dont lie to me ever lol. I did alot of reading and decided my key resistor was bad since I've only had 1 key and no key fob the 2 years I've owned the car. I did the VATS bypass, my key read 11.78-11.81k ohms so I soldered 3 resistors in line that equalled 11.79k ohm, I read it could be 11.46-12.22k ohms and desired was 11.81k ohms which the key #15 is made to. Well it started right up, I was very pleased, but didnt think it could be that easy, then I shut it off and started it again 3 more times within an hour of the initial startup. I was very relieved because my most recent layoff has put me in a hard situation financially, then I go to leave and it does NOTHING, but this time all acc work like HVAC,seats,windows,locks,radio,lights, and no security light blinking and making noise like crazy. It all worked like b4 all this started 2 mnths ago except starter wont activate and I hear a small audible click from around the brake booster-fuse block area when I twist key to start position. I checked every fuse visually and with FLUKE, the only thing I dont know how to check is STR,IGN relay without buying a new one and trying it and I dont have the $10 to use now on something that doesnt fix it. I am very confused,worried, etc because this economy has put a hurt on me and I would atleast like to have my bank take my car with it running if it comes to that so I can atleast get the loan paid off...I have about $20 a week to use towards fixing it if that helps any, but if anyone knows a 4sure or 80% sure fix I would gamble with having to borrow money. Thanks ALOT if you have read this far, i'm just wanting to get all the info out there so people know the details.....

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

Holy crap yea i read all of that but i am so confused with everything you say and what you did and what you are trying to accomplish.................

99monguse

It may be the ignition relay. My Z28 would start fine for weeks then it would act up the be fine then act up and not start. Swap the ign relay and a fan relay. These cars have a lot of relay problems, traditionally the ignition relay!

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I know it was ALOT of info to take in, but the car wont start and thats what I want to accomplish....I just listed everything i've tried so people dont tell me I got a bad key and try a new key or the VATS bypass cause i've already tried all that. I just want to start my car and cant find the problem and buying new keys or taking to a shop is outta tha options right now since my unemployment barely pays my bills. I'm in a very tight spot right now financially and need to get car running incase I have to sell it.

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

That is what I decided on today is most likely it has to be IGN relay or STR relay. I bought a new starter relay, and I will see if that works, and if not then I will swap the IGN relay with a FAN relay and try that. I also bought a new clutch switch communicator relay, because its acting like i'm trying to start the car without pressing the clutch pedal down. The only thing now is since I tried locking the doors and unlocking my door with my key to see if the alarm still goes off, well it did and wouldnt stop so I unhooked the battery and now anytime I hook the battery back up the alarm starts going off still and wont turn off. Before all this happenend all I had to do is put my key in ignition and turn to ON within 5sec of unlocking the door and the alarm wouldnt go off. Maybe since I bypassed the key cylinder using a resistor I cant lock the doors. It is supposed to think the key is always in the ignition, but if the key is in the ignition doesnt that stop the doors from locking?