Tunin' er up
#1
Tunin' er up
Hey guys I had a couple questions. Right now my t/a is being stored in the garage for the winter. She is right at 53k. I am preparing for Spring (yes its early but it helps me get through winter) and the tune up and maintenance that will happen as soon as she is out of the garage. My plans include: Rear diff fluid change, clutch fluid change, tranny fluid change, and power steering flush as well as another oil change. Is there anything else that would be recommended for this mileage? Fuel filter? Plugs? Wires?
#3
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Plugs for sure. I do them every 25,000...way too cheap and easy to do. 100K mile plugs, thats just ridiculous, don't go anywhere near that far. Its like my stepfather with his Dodge Hemi pick-up.....he had 80,000 miles and refused to change his plugs because he fell for that 100K mile bullshit. He finally caved in around 85,000 miles and had it done.....HUGE difference and all 8 plugs looked like ***. His acceleration from a stop was a huge difference.
Do the fuel filter every 10,000 miles....$12.00 and 10 minutes of your time. But before you do it run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas first, then do the change. I've been doing it every 3-4 months for 12+ years and my fuel system has never had an issue. 9 year old injectors too.
Do the rest of the stuff you mentioned too. There's an easy way to change the power steering fluid if you need it......but if that stuff is clean, I would leave it alone. You don't have the cheesy factory PS fluid cooler so you should be fine.
.
Do the fuel filter every 10,000 miles....$12.00 and 10 minutes of your time. But before you do it run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas first, then do the change. I've been doing it every 3-4 months for 12+ years and my fuel system has never had an issue. 9 year old injectors too.
Do the rest of the stuff you mentioned too. There's an easy way to change the power steering fluid if you need it......but if that stuff is clean, I would leave it alone. You don't have the cheesy factory PS fluid cooler so you should be fine.
.
#4
Launching!
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murfreesboro, TN (Nashville)
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Plugs for sure. I do them every 25,000...way too cheap and easy to do. 100K mile plugs, thats just ridiculous, don't go anywhere near that far. Its like my stepfather with his Dodge Hemi pick-up.....he had 80,000 miles and refused to change his plugs because he fell for that 100K mile bullshit. He finally caved in around 85,000 miles and had it done.....HUGE difference and all 8 plugs looked like ***. His acceleration from a stop was a huge difference.
Do the fuel filter every 10,000 miles....$12.00 and 10 minutes of your time. But before you do it run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas first, then do the change. I've been doing it every 3-4 months for 12+ years and my fuel system has never had an issue. 9 year old injectors too.
Do the rest of the stuff you mentioned too. There's an easy way to change the power steering fluid if you need it......but if that stuff is clean, I would leave it alone. You don't have the cheesy factory PS fluid cooler so you should be fine.
.
Do the fuel filter every 10,000 miles....$12.00 and 10 minutes of your time. But before you do it run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas first, then do the change. I've been doing it every 3-4 months for 12+ years and my fuel system has never had an issue. 9 year old injectors too.
Do the rest of the stuff you mentioned too. There's an easy way to change the power steering fluid if you need it......but if that stuff is clean, I would leave it alone. You don't have the cheesy factory PS fluid cooler so you should be fine.
.
#6
Launching!
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murfreesboro, TN (Nashville)
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Yeah, they aren't fun, when you get one side done, you feel like the job should be finished....but it's not...still 8 more to go....no fun at all.
Anyways.... If you're going to be pulling the plugs and whatnot, I would also recommend some GM Top Engine Cleaner. It's a can of fluid that you put into the cylinders while you have the spark plugs out and it sits on top of the pistons and breaks up any carbon buildup on top. We did this to one bank of cylinders and before we did the other side, we used a Snap On boroscope to record the differences. Talk about a piston that looks almost brand new afterward. That stuff is awesome. Just pull your plugs, pour some into all 8 cyls (A funnel with a hose on the end works best), and go have lunch or something. About an hour later, pop your new plugs in, change the oil (some of it may leak past the rings, don't want that stuff in your oil), and start her up, make sure your garage door is open, because you're going to kill every mosquito within a 10 mile radius with all the smoke. What I like to do is buy two cans, one for the tops of the pistons, and one to suck up through a vacuum line while it's running. This will get the tops of the intake valves and also the intake runners. Most people only do the Vacuum line procedure, but throwing it on top of the pistons and letting it sit is a trick I picked up while working at the Chevy Dealership.
Anyways.... If you're going to be pulling the plugs and whatnot, I would also recommend some GM Top Engine Cleaner. It's a can of fluid that you put into the cylinders while you have the spark plugs out and it sits on top of the pistons and breaks up any carbon buildup on top. We did this to one bank of cylinders and before we did the other side, we used a Snap On boroscope to record the differences. Talk about a piston that looks almost brand new afterward. That stuff is awesome. Just pull your plugs, pour some into all 8 cyls (A funnel with a hose on the end works best), and go have lunch or something. About an hour later, pop your new plugs in, change the oil (some of it may leak past the rings, don't want that stuff in your oil), and start her up, make sure your garage door is open, because you're going to kill every mosquito within a 10 mile radius with all the smoke. What I like to do is buy two cans, one for the tops of the pistons, and one to suck up through a vacuum line while it's running. This will get the tops of the intake valves and also the intake runners. Most people only do the Vacuum line procedure, but throwing it on top of the pistons and letting it sit is a trick I picked up while working at the Chevy Dealership.
Last edited by BRUTL; 12-07-2010 at 03:53 PM.
#7
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Yeah, they aren't fun, when you get one side done, you feel like the job should be finished....but it's not...still 8 more to go....no fun at all.
Anyways.... If you're going to be pulling the plugs and whatnot, I would also recommend some GM Top Engine Cleaner. It's a can of fluid that you put into the cylinders while you have the spark plugs out and it sits on top of the pistons and breaks up any carbon buildup on top. We did this to one bank of cylinders and before we did the other side, we used a Snap On boroscope to record the differences. Talk about a piston that looks almost brand new afterward. That stuff is awesome. Just pull your plugs, pour some into all 8 cyls (A funnel with a hose on the end works best), and go have lunch or something. About an hour later, pop your new plugs in, change the oil (some of it may leak past the rings, don't want that stuff in your oil), and start her up, make sure your garage door is open, because you're going to kill every mosquito within a 10 mile radius with all the smoke. What I like to do is buy two cans, one for the tops of the pistons, and one to suck up through a vacuum line while it's running. This will get the tops of the intake valves and also the intake runners. Most people only do the Vacuum line procedure, but throwing it on top of the pistons and letting it sit is a trick I picked up while working at the Chevy Dealership.
Anyways.... If you're going to be pulling the plugs and whatnot, I would also recommend some GM Top Engine Cleaner. It's a can of fluid that you put into the cylinders while you have the spark plugs out and it sits on top of the pistons and breaks up any carbon buildup on top. We did this to one bank of cylinders and before we did the other side, we used a Snap On boroscope to record the differences. Talk about a piston that looks almost brand new afterward. That stuff is awesome. Just pull your plugs, pour some into all 8 cyls (A funnel with a hose on the end works best), and go have lunch or something. About an hour later, pop your new plugs in, change the oil (some of it may leak past the rings, don't want that stuff in your oil), and start her up, make sure your garage door is open, because you're going to kill every mosquito within a 10 mile radius with all the smoke. What I like to do is buy two cans, one for the tops of the pistons, and one to suck up through a vacuum line while it's running. This will get the tops of the intake valves and also the intake runners. Most people only do the Vacuum line procedure, but throwing it on top of the pistons and letting it sit is a trick I picked up while working at the Chevy Dealership.
I'd like to try that piston clean with the GM stuff since I( have to change my plugs next week. Is it a liquid or a foam.....???
I think before I started it up though, I'd turn it over for 5-10 seconds with the plugs out to splash most of the liquid out of each cylinder through the plug holes......don't want to hydralock the engine....ouch......
.
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Murfreesboro, TN (Nashville)
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Yeah, that's a good idea turnin her over first. It's a liquid, but there's also a foam GM sells, just having trouble finding it lately. The foam works better on top of the pistons and even has a long tube built into the bottle. I'm sure that Mopar stuff is just as good as the GM stuff, hell it might even be the same product that is sold to each company. A lot of stuff gets done like that.