Q3131A

I have a 2000 SS. About a year ago I had to replace the battery because the positive terminal was so corroded it fell out of battery.

In order to removing the broke terminal from the positive wire I removed the red protective cover. I installed the battery but forgot to put red cover back on. I dropped my ratchet and as it fell it hit the positive bolt and ground at same time. Quick spark.

I went to put the code in my stereo and it didn't work. Then I noticed other electrical things not working: Stereo, cd shuttle, interior lights, power seat, etc. Also hear a clicking noise in dash on pass side every now and then.

I checked all fuses inside drivers door and under hood, all good. Thought I blew something when I dropped ratchet.

I had someone tell me there are 3 computers on car and at dealer they supply power to them when they change battery, if not one could need reset somehow. Don't know how much hot air that is.

Anyway, any ideas?

shorty(98TA)

i dont know about the computer thing thats a ? for a dearler or someone smarter than me. but i had a similar prob on our mini van once (yeah yeah i know but when you have 4 kids 2 of them in car seats and your disabled sometime you have to bite the bullet) anyway i changed out the bat when i did i cut off the terminal boots and i fought the radio jackn up the bat not charging turned out the pos cable oxidized down it the coating from drawing moister so after i swaped cables with proper boots on them everything worked fine

dont know if that will help but its just a thought

NCal

It's true that you might have shorted something out with the wrench, but the problem might be related to that bad positive post on your original battery. When the positive puck on my battery came loose, I found that the battery acid had wicked along the cable and corroded the connections at my Alternator, Starter & the Fuse Panel. This caused my radio, gauges, etc.. to cut out and/or act freaky. Check these connections for corrosion and if needed, clean them with baking soda & water (make a paste out of it and brush it on). Once it stops bubbling, take a wire brush to the contact surfaces then reconnect them. If this fixes your problem it will (unfortunately) only be temporary. You will never get all that battery acid out from between the wire strands of the original cable and the problem will return within a couple months. You'll eventually need to replace the positive cable harness to fix it for good. HTH.

Good luck.

Nick

TrybalRage

I had a body control module go bad on my '96 back in the day, caused a clicking noise in the dash and the lights to flicker... it controls interior power and your alarm/keyless, etc.

Q3131A

That's another thing, keyless entry and power door locks don't work. I'll look into that control modular next.

I thought about the power cable but thought I cleaned it up enough plus that stupid thing is $45. I just ordered a new one so we'll give it a try.

After reading around I found out the stock AC Delco batteries have a problem with the positive side leaking. Thanks GM. This was my second factory battery. My first died while still under warranty.

Thanks you guys. I'm going to hit both the above then go from there. Anyone else have an idea, feel free to let me know.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Yep, sounds like you may have toasted the BCM. All those things not working (keyless entry, power windows, radio, etc.) point to a bad BCM. There is an issue where a solder joint breaks on these but if you weren't having those issues before zapping the battery then you'll probably need a new one entirely.

Q3131A

Where is the BCM located?

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

i believe under/behind the dash and glove box on passenger side.

m855 > q3131a

Q3131A

LOL! Good one 1FMF.

I called dealer and BCM is $300! After I install it he said it needs programmed, another $90.

I found a used one for $75. Will that need programmed since it was already installed? Is there anyway to do this programming ones self?

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

per my 2002 service manual, any new BCM will automatically program to the resistance of the ignition key resistor on the first ignition cycle, and this can only be done once. Once done the BCM is good forever for that resistance key value. So if you get a used one you can to do the VATS mod and hack in the correct resistor value into the wiring under the steering column and not worry about correct ignition keys. Or get new keys made and/or install a new ignition switch using key resistors matching new BCM. I think there's only 12 resistor values or something, so for a few bucks you could radio shack resistor it till you find the right value.

but in my service manual for a new BCM, "before the system can function properly it must be programmed to the code (resistance) that matches the ignition keys".
1. install new bcm, hook up battery
2. start engine
3. observe security lamp for following: lamp lights steadily for 5 seconds then goes out, this indicates the bcm is programmed properly. if indicator lamp flashes once per second till ignition off then reprogram did not take and there's a fault somewhere
4. upon successful bcm auto program, **** customer in *** then extort $90 from them for the "BCM reprogram".

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

service manual also mentions most problems are traceable to faulty wiring and replacing a bcm in that case won't fix anything. There's a whole troubleshoot list to determine a faulty bcm in the manual. my guess though based on your first post is bad wiring/connections.

removing the battery, you do not need to apply power to the other three computers like you mentioned in first post. that's bullshit. my car sits from December to May with no battery and has done so since 2002 with no problems. The memory in the computers is non-volatile, it will retain information without power. And dropping a wrench from battery + to - and creating a fireworks show will hurt nothing but the wrench and battery terminals, it's dc current and flowing directly from post to post. All that the other electrical stuff in the car sees is a system voltage drop when that happens, no different than disconnecting the battery, no different than turning the ignition key off which turns off power going to the BCM... actually it goes into sleep mode. But the clicking you hear is the relays BCM which control door locks, alarm system and other **** when car is off. because you have a handful of problems all related to the bcm i would think it's more a wiring or ground issue with the BCM. hope that helps.

Q3131A

Thanks 1FMF.

I just got my new positive cable. Going to try and install it today. If not, this weekend. We'll see if that helps.

Where do you get a service manual? I'd like to follow those steps.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_s...lm&class_2=CHV

$135

Q3131A

I replaced the positive cable. Broke starter in process. Had to buy new one which was wrong. Had to drive an hour away to get correct replacement. No help.

Re soldered parts on BCM per thread about that problem. No help.

Took car to shop and a friend hooked their computer up. Waste of time. Said he could not even access my BCM. I was led to believe they had a Tech2 but they didn't. He said BCM if probably fried. No help.

Ordered brand new $200+ BCM, hooked up, started car. No help.

Bid on the Helm manuals on eBay. Guess I'll wait and see if they help me track down my problem unless anyone else has an idea where to look in the mean time.

I'm ready to give up and take it to the dealer. I've already racked up a over $400 and a ton of time. Way more than it would have cost me to take it to them in the first place. Problem is I don't have another car to drive at this point.