stokedbug2

So I was sitting at a light at night. Dash lights go out no poping noise like any fuses blew. So I go home and my girl was folloing me. And when we arrived home she said I had no brake lights either. The turn signals work fine.

My car is a 99 Firebird. Had a aftermarket radio in there and took it out from reading a post on this forum saying that the radio could cause the headlight switch to fail. So I replaced the headlight switch to no avail. Still didn't fix the problem. So my question is what step should I do next. I have the whole front off the dash and the radio out. And I replaced the battery not to long ago with a red top.

Any help would be nice. Just let me know what you guys think.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

fuses fuses fuses

lvbroham1

maybe the bcm?...

stokedbug2

All the fuses in the whole car. Under the dash and under the hood are good. Tested and everything.

How would I know if the BCM is bad. And what are some ways to fix it?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Your tail lights (note turn signals are a different circuit) and dash lights are right next to each other on the fuse panel. Coincidence??? Have you done any work behind the fuse panel?

stokedbug2

Nope no work behind the fuse panel by me ever. Well I was out messing with it today in this god aweful heat. And was checking all the grounds on the car to make sure they were all good and they are. While I was out there. I noticed that the Hazards don't work at all. And when you flip the switch to the parking light postion the amber lights in the front go out so those bulbs work. And I rechecked the bulbs in the tail lights all of them are good. As are the fog lights. But the other development is the right headlight door won't go down now. There is/was no grinding on the motors just stopped working. Wondering if its the same thing causeing it not to work as well.

I have heard of the DRL Module causing problems with this as well can anyone confirm.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The DRL is only connected to a fraction of this stuff.

If your hazzards, tail lamps, and gauges don't work, you have a failure in multiple circuits.

You should probably start by testing the voltage at the fuses. Measure across the fuse and then from the supply to ground to see what you have.

stokedbug2

Okay I'll do that in the morning and post the findings. Where is the ground on the one in the door jam?

stokedbug2

Okay what dose my mutli meter need to be set on to test these thing. And what should they read when good and bad?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Set the meter to read 12V DC. With the fuse in place, put the contacts across the test terminals on the fuse. (There should be two bare posts imbedded in the plastic on either side of the number on the head.)

You want to test it this way, otherwise it could destroy your meter.

You'll need to have the circuit you are testing on. If you don't get anything, try testing from each post to a ground like the body. If you get voltage to a separate ground but not at the fuse, then that will point to an issue after the fuse box. If you get no voltage either way, then you've got a supply problem to the fuse box.

stokedbug2

Okay I will do that in the morning and post the findings. I replaced the fuel pump in Jan with an aftermarket you think that would have anything to do with the problems I am having?

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

If it was just the dash lights,might be dimmer switch.But throw in the stop lights,seems like the problems must be related.

stokedbug2

Okay wssix, I went out and tested everything today. The fuses in the door jam I got resistance on some like the turn signals hvac and wipers. But others I got nothing on either way. I tested the stop/hazard tail lamp radio ip dimmer and all the others that would cause the problem both the ways you told me test them and nothing from those.

So what's the next step? Pulling out the fuse box its self and looking at wires and all that jazz?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

How did you test the resistance. Testing fuses by resistance is tricky. Not sure but I recall that its not a reliable measurement. Either way, you'd need to pull the fuse completely out of the holder to test it so the electronics in the car don't mess with the measurements.

A better way to test them would be to put a ground on the body and then test each terminal in the fuse head for positive current. If only one of the sides of the fuse is hot, its a bad fuse. If neither side of the fuse is hot - its time to start rummaging in behind the fuse box or in the engine compartment.

stokedbug2

Sorry for the confusion. I tested like you said across the fuse in 12vDC. Nothing on the ones I listed. I'll run a ground tomorrow to see if I get anything at all but its doubtful seeing as the hazards and break pedal was depressed at the same time and nothing haha.

stokedbug2

Ran a ground to the door so I could test still nothing on the fuses that control the parking/stop/hazard/tail lights. So nothing is still on. Took the fuse box out and every thing seems connected good. Checked the wireing at the fuel pump I put in. All good so I don't know what to do next. Haven't drove it at night due to the simple fact of no parking lights. Any other stabs as to what to do next before I go to a shop or something. I would like to fix it myself rather than waste up to thousands on a shop.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

What does this mean? You aren't getting power to the fuse at all? Or is the fuse getting power at the panel?

stokedbug2

No. No power at the fuse at all. With or without the fuse in the spot and said ciruct on. Like depress the break no power either way. And just found out today, took it for a short run on the highway and no cruise control functions either.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

OK - now you have something to work with...

Which fuses do NOT have power?

stokedbug2

Okay fuse numbers 1 5 16(allthough the light come on when dimmer is clicked on, but the lights never dimmed from the time I bought the car) and 17(radio works though) and 11(but nothing in cig/accy to test with)