05-20-2016, 02:24 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Camaro and Firebird Why is Car Overheating<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
Overheating LS1
06-06-2011, 08:43 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Overheating LS1 My friend has a 2002 Camaro Z28, LS1 with AFR heads with cometic head gaskets. She's having issues with the car over heating. It has been suggested that we vacuum bleed the cooling system - any thoughts on this or other suggestions?
06-07-2011, 12:58 AM
#2
I would first check and see if you have sucked up any debris like leaves, paper, plastic bag, ect., and ect. These cars are bottom feeders and you can get all kinds of crap sucked up to block off air to your radiator and AC. Make sure your thermostat is working correctly. Make sure that both of your fans are coming on. If only one fan is working it will over heat. If a fan is not working you can hot wire it directly to the battery and check to see if it is the fan motor or a relay that has gone bad. It usually is the fan motor. That should keep you bizzy for a little while. Let us know what you discover.
06-07-2011, 08:19 AM
#3
What are the conditions that the overheating occurs? That will tell a lot about the problem.
BTW - Check the coolant level under the radiator pressure cap with the car completely cooled down. If the coolant level is at the top and just under the cap, you do not have a pressure issue.
BTW - Check the coolant level under the radiator pressure cap with the car completely cooled down. If the coolant level is at the top and just under the cap, you do not have a pressure issue.
06-07-2011, 09:30 PM
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fans are in perfect working order to my knowledge and she's tried replacing the thermostat several times - I'm getting more info soon.
Does anyone have experience with the cometic head gaskets letting air into the cooling system? Apparently there in the toque sequence you have to wait x amount of hours between torque passes - This was not done during the AFR/cometic head gasket install.
Does anyone have experience with the cometic head gaskets letting air into the cooling system? Apparently there in the toque sequence you have to wait x amount of hours between torque passes - This was not done during the AFR/cometic head gasket install.
06-08-2011, 12:45 PM
#7
If she has boiling over of hot coolant when the cooling system is full of coolant and bled properly...then air is getting "pushed" into the system from a piston, which would mean a breach in a head gasket.
And yes, you need to make sure the system is bled of all air or it will overheat.
Does anyone have experience with the cometic head gaskets letting air into the cooling system? Apparently there in the toque sequence you have to wait x amount of hours between torque passes - This was not done during the AFR/cometic head gasket install.
.
Trending Topics
06-08-2011, 11:23 PM
#9
I understand that in certain circumstances, the shaft seals can fail in such a way that air is sucked in along the shaft. Since the impellers throw fluid to the outside, I'd expect that there is a vacuum around the shaft area of the impeller. (Its been a while since I designed an impeller and I don't wish to go back there... 
)
I noticed air in my system only after running the engine up to temp. After confirming that the siphon on the overflow tank was good, it only left the pump. A pump replacement took care of the problem and when I got it out, I found evidence of a weep hole leak. So, I suppose the bad seals let air in while the pump was up to speed and let fluid out after the engine shut off.
)I noticed air in my system only after running the engine up to temp. After confirming that the siphon on the overflow tank was good, it only left the pump. A pump replacement took care of the problem and when I got it out, I found evidence of a weep hole leak. So, I suppose the bad seals let air in while the pump was up to speed and let fluid out after the engine shut off.
06-09-2011, 06:23 AM
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I understand that in certain circumstances, the shaft seals can fail in such a way that air is sucked in along the shaft. Since the impellers throw fluid to the outside, I'd expect that there is a vacuum around the shaft area of the impeller. (Its been a while since I designed an impeller and I don't wish to go back there... )
I noticed air in my system only after running the engine up to temp. After confirming that the siphon on the overflow tank was good, it only left the pump. A pump replacement took care of the problem and when I got it out, I found evidence of a weep hole leak. So, I suppose the bad seals let air in while the pump was up to speed and let fluid out after the engine shut off.
)I noticed air in my system only after running the engine up to temp. After confirming that the siphon on the overflow tank was good, it only left the pump. A pump replacement took care of the problem and when I got it out, I found evidence of a weep hole leak. So, I suppose the bad seals let air in while the pump was up to speed and let fluid out after the engine shut off.
Has 160 t-stat, low speed fan on 165, high speed on at 175 (both fans work), radiator has AC condenser and Ram air unit infront of it, lower air deflector still on, System is full.
Im hoping maybe it had some air in it, I let it idle with the cap off and the fluid level dropped a bit, I topped it off again but I havent drove it since. someone suggested maybe T stat spring is weak and it's closing under pressure but it's a new t-stat so i dont know how that could be.
sorry op don't mean to highjack.
06-09-2011, 01:34 PM
#11
Good to know. I'm chasing a overheating problem at speed... Car can idle all day in 100 degree temps and only reach 195 coolant temps (can physically watch the fans lower the coolant temp when i kick them on late)... as soon as I hit the road temp wants to shoot up to 210-230
Has 160 t-stat, low speed fan on 165, high speed on at 175 (both fans work), radiator has AC condenser and Ram air unit infront of it, lower air deflector still on, System is full.
Im hoping maybe it had some air in it, I let it idle with the cap off and the fluid level dropped a bit, I topped it off again but I havent drove it since. someone suggested maybe T stat spring is weak and it's closing under pressure but it's a new t-stat so i dont know how that could be.
sorry op don't mean to highjack.
Has 160 t-stat, low speed fan on 165, high speed on at 175 (both fans work), radiator has AC condenser and Ram air unit infront of it, lower air deflector still on, System is full.
Im hoping maybe it had some air in it, I let it idle with the cap off and the fluid level dropped a bit, I topped it off again but I havent drove it since. someone suggested maybe T stat spring is weak and it's closing under pressure but it's a new t-stat so i dont know how that could be.
sorry op don't mean to highjack.
.
06-09-2011, 01:49 PM
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
At speed the fans shut off (stock tune) and only the
rolling airflow is left. I'd go for the cleaning of condenser
and radiator, first thing. It's free and it's made a big
difference on my car.
LT1 radiator (the good early fat one) swap is a good
next step. They can be found real cheap if you are
patient on eBay. I got mine for $40 NIB.
rolling airflow is left. I'd go for the cleaning of condenser
and radiator, first thing. It's free and it's made a big
difference on my car.
LT1 radiator (the good early fat one) swap is a good
next step. They can be found real cheap if you are
patient on eBay. I got mine for $40 NIB.
06-09-2011, 02:49 PM
#13
Im hoping maybe it had some air in it, I let it idle with the cap off and the fluid level dropped a bit, I topped it off again but I havent drove it since. someone suggested maybe T stat spring is weak and it's closing under pressure but it's a new t-stat so i dont know how that could be.
If the level is full when the engine is cold, the system is good. Excess pressure bleeds over to the overflow tank when the engine is heating and then fluid is sucked back from the tank as the fluid cools and contracts.
If there is air in the radiator with the engine cold, either:
- The siphon to the overflow tank is broken
- Exhaust or air is entering the system in a volume in excess of the coolant's contraction volume
06-10-2011, 09:14 PM
#14
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW Chicago burbs
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At speed the fans shut off (stock tune) and only the
rolling airflow is left. I'd go for the cleaning of condenser
and radiator, first thing. It's free and it's made a big
difference on my car.
LT1 radiator (the good early fat one) swap is a good
next step. They can be found real cheap if you are
patient on eBay. I got mine for $40 NIB.
rolling airflow is left. I'd go for the cleaning of condenser
and radiator, first thing. It's free and it's made a big
difference on my car.
LT1 radiator (the good early fat one) swap is a good
next step. They can be found real cheap if you are
patient on eBay. I got mine for $40 NIB.
Good advice above, but you don't want to do this. To check for air in the system, look under the cap only when the engine is 100% cool. The system is pressurized (the cap controls this) so looking at levels with the cap off and the engine running won't tell you anything. In fact, it may cause the system to be under pressurized when you go off driving, which could cause you overheating problems in itself.
If the level is full when the engine is cold, the system is good. Excess pressure bleeds over to the overflow tank when the engine is heating and then fluid is sucked back from the tank as the fluid cools and contracts.
If there is air in the radiator with the engine cold, either:
- The siphon to the overflow tank is broken
- Exhaust or air is entering the system in a volume in excess of the coolant's contraction volume
If the level is full when the engine is cold, the system is good. Excess pressure bleeds over to the overflow tank when the engine is heating and then fluid is sucked back from the tank as the fluid cools and contracts.
If there is air in the radiator with the engine cold, either:
- The siphon to the overflow tank is broken
- Exhaust or air is entering the system in a volume in excess of the coolant's contraction volume
06-11-2011, 11:47 AM
#15
Like I said when it got up to temp I noticed the level dropped. When the car is off the radiator is always full never low. I'm waiting for the hot *** temps to return so I can see if it runs hot again but like I said I took it out in 60-65 degree temps, ran it hard at times and never went over 180.
