T-top rubber seal for front and rear of center rib
#1
T-top rubber seal for front and rear of center rib
I have a 99 trans am and the little t-top seals that are at the front and rear where the two t-tops come together are messed up. does anyone know where to get replacements or the part number for them. Thank you. I tried searching but couldnt find anything.
#2
TECH Apprentice
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I use https://www.1stpontiacparts.com or http://gmpartsdirect.com for dealer parts. You can also try the http://www.ws6project.com. I have searched these parts along with the weatherstripping along the doors many times. I will need them soon along with the hatch weatherstripping.
#3
Save the manuals!
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Are you talking about the rubber pieces at either end of the T-Bar molding that goes between the tops? If so, this thread has the answers:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-question.html
#4
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I shuffled through some parts books and came up with the numbers. They are:
10248550 CAP-RF/WD (This is the front one)
10248551 CAP-RF/WD (This is the rear one)
The dealer I visited actually had them in stock! The parts themselves run less than $1 each online and the dealer I visited charged me $1.86 for one and $1.95 for the other.
They were listed as parts in group 12.812 with the molding, but are not depicted in any exploded diagrams.
I was able to get the new caps on with great results, but don't think I have everything down 100%. Maybe the next person to do this can put together a sticky-quality write up? (There are no directions on how to do this in the Factory Service Manual.)
I've attached three pictures. One of the caps laying flat, one from the side view, and one of the center molding off.
On the parts: they are very similar, except for the molded curvature. (See the side view picture.) I didn't note which one was which from the dealer, but I'm 95.9% sure that the flatter profile one is for the rear, and the one with more curve is the one for the front.
When I took off the center trim, I got a really nasty, sticky surprise. (See other picture.) The molding uses a single sided 1" wide urethane foam tape to seal the screw holes and keep things from squeaking/rubbing. The tape's adhesive had liquefied over time and the tape was starting to separate from the Mylar backing. Things would have been better if I was wearing rubber gloves at the time. The adhesive cleans up reasonably well with rubbing alcohol.
If I had a little more time, I would have ordered replacement foam tape and cleaned up everything really well. Instead, I carefully re-lined up the old tape and it seemed to hold together well enough. I think this is the replacement tape: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glPL95HS7G7Hbl The catch is that I could only find it in 36 yard rolls for $50-60. Hopefully someone else sells a comparable tape in a smaller quantity.
Once I had the molding off, I found that the old caps were spot glued on. I was able to scrape everything clean and then used super glue to bond the full width of the cap on with a very thin layer of adhesive. The bond held rock-solid and worked really well. The only thing I wished I had done would have been to put tape across the top of the molding and across the top of the cap to deal with some oozing out of the top of the assembly where the two meet.
10248550 CAP-RF/WD (This is the front one)
10248551 CAP-RF/WD (This is the rear one)
The dealer I visited actually had them in stock! The parts themselves run less than $1 each online and the dealer I visited charged me $1.86 for one and $1.95 for the other.
They were listed as parts in group 12.812 with the molding, but are not depicted in any exploded diagrams.
I was able to get the new caps on with great results, but don't think I have everything down 100%. Maybe the next person to do this can put together a sticky-quality write up? (There are no directions on how to do this in the Factory Service Manual.)
I've attached three pictures. One of the caps laying flat, one from the side view, and one of the center molding off.
On the parts: they are very similar, except for the molded curvature. (See the side view picture.) I didn't note which one was which from the dealer, but I'm 95.9% sure that the flatter profile one is for the rear, and the one with more curve is the one for the front.
When I took off the center trim, I got a really nasty, sticky surprise. (See other picture.) The molding uses a single sided 1" wide urethane foam tape to seal the screw holes and keep things from squeaking/rubbing. The tape's adhesive had liquefied over time and the tape was starting to separate from the Mylar backing. Things would have been better if I was wearing rubber gloves at the time. The adhesive cleans up reasonably well with rubbing alcohol.
If I had a little more time, I would have ordered replacement foam tape and cleaned up everything really well. Instead, I carefully re-lined up the old tape and it seemed to hold together well enough. I think this is the replacement tape: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glPL95HS7G7Hbl The catch is that I could only find it in 36 yard rolls for $50-60. Hopefully someone else sells a comparable tape in a smaller quantity.
Once I had the molding off, I found that the old caps were spot glued on. I was able to scrape everything clean and then used super glue to bond the full width of the cap on with a very thin layer of adhesive. The bond held rock-solid and worked really well. The only thing I wished I had done would have been to put tape across the top of the molding and across the top of the cap to deal with some oozing out of the top of the assembly where the two meet.