General Maintenance & Repairs Leaks | Squeaks | Clunks | Rattles | Grinds

Main Brake Lights Not Working Consistently

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-21-2011, 11:29 AM
  #1  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
 
bluebird71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Main Brake Lights Not Working Consistently

Since I had the auto swapped in back in '09, my main brake lights will only work about 30% of the time. I tried putting in a new brake pedal switch and adjusted it, but it didn't fix the problem. The 3rd brake light work just fine, but the main 2 will only come on randomly when they feel like it (very rarely though). Everytime I screw with the wires and get them too work, they will always go back out in a day or so. There is obviously a short somewhere, but where do I start looking? Is there something in the auto harness that the main brake lights go through that the 3rd doesn't that I need to check? Is there a common short out spot on the rear wiring that may have just popped up coincidentally? I have no idea how they tie in from the pedal all the way to the lights themselves. I really hate electrical bugs!
Old 07-22-2011, 10:51 AM
  #2  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

Check the ground screw just insde of the hatch behind the cover material. It's the only shared component between the lights.
Old 07-29-2011, 12:45 PM
  #3  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
 
bluebird71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

The grounds in the back look good and tight. I replaced the switch in the floor and the 3rd brake light works just fine. If there was something wrong with something in the switch or around that area, could the 3rd brake light still come on? There are a bunch of crazy spliced wires under there console cover by the shifter from when they swapped in the auto. Could sonething there be the problem?
Old 07-30-2011, 06:41 AM
  #4  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

Since you turn signals don't work, I'd expect it's a problem at shared components. The entire rear harness unplugs a few nches forward of the ground screw. You can probe the connector at that point and confim if the problem is in the forward part of the car in the back.
Old 07-30-2011, 02:30 PM
  #5  
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
 
puddingmmmmmmmm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

No the third eye brake switch would not work if the brake light switch wasn't working properly.
Old 07-30-2011, 03:49 PM
  #6  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
 
bluebird71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

No, the turn signals DO work. The rear lights also come on with the headlights and as I said before, the 3rd brake light works all the time. There is a short somewhere that isn't letting the main brake lights come on when they need to. Is there some wires that go through the auto shifter that also control the brake lights, kinda like the reverse lights (which work fine by the way)?

Originally Posted by wssix99
Since you turn signals don't work, I'd expect it's a problem at shared components. The entire rear harness unplugs a few nches forward of the ground screw. You can probe the connector at that point and confim if the problem is in the forward part of the car in the back.
Old 07-30-2011, 09:26 PM
  #7  
wrencher
iTrader: (2)
 
wrencher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

3rd stop is wired seprate.
It's the turn signal switch, doesn't matter if the signals work.
The T/S switch has to complete the path to the rear lower lights signal off.
Search here others had the same issue.
Old 07-30-2011, 11:11 PM
  #8  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
 
bluebird71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I have considered that it could be the TS switch, but this problem occurred after the auto was swapped in so it has to be something that would have been changed or altered in that swap.
Old 07-31-2011, 11:21 AM
  #9  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

The turn signal switch connector is under the dash at the base of the steering column. Its real easy to test there and will confirm if the switch is good.
Old 07-31-2011, 02:06 PM
  #10  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
 
bluebird71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

How do I test there? Do I need a volt meter or something?
Old 08-01-2011, 11:17 PM
  #11  
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
 
wssix99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 12,663
Received 322 Likes on 295 Posts

Default

You'll need a voltmeter set to 12V to probe the wires. If you ground one wire to the body and then probe with the positive test lead, you should see 12V when you press the brakes at the connector point where a white wire from the switch connects to a light blue wire going to the rest of the car. This is the brake signal wire from the pedal.

If you are getting 12V at that point, next probe the yellow and dark green wires with the turn signal off/neutral. These return the brake signal to the back lights.

If you have voltage at the white/light blue junction and nothing at the yellow and dark green wires, you probably have a bad turn signal switch.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:08 PM.