SuprSaiyjinBroli

I tried to search...found a bunch of junk on google...figured somebody here might know.

When I got my car the Temperature Sensor had been damaged. It worked find but the sleeve, the black piece that extends to cover the two prongs was NOT there. The two prongs were exposed.

Anyway, since I had the alternator out anyway I figured I'd put a new sensor in. Bam. Done.

Well, today I was driving along enjoying my new clean temperature readouts and all of a sudden my temperature shot up to 260 and the DIC readout said, Engine Coolant xxx.x

Its a brand new sensor in there...it was working and then all of a sudden stopped. The car still drives fine and isn't actually over heating.

Any ideas? I checked the coolant levels and topped them off...

Too add the riddle...I hook the old sensor up to it...not while it was in the head and the sensor read...

So, I pulled the new one, swapped to the old one...cranked her up....it was fine for about 2 minutes and then redlined the temp.

I swapped back to the new one the temp gauge was fine until about 190ish degrees and then flew over to 260 and readout xxx.

I got home, put an OHMs meter on them both...one is reading out at like .6...the other is well over 1.

.6 is the older one. I'm assuming its **** the bed...so why the hell is the new one only reading for about 15 minutes or until 190ish degrees and then redlining the temperature?

Any ideas...Air in the system...?

I...anybody with any input would be nice.

Anyway, I took the new sensor back and exchanged it out. I put the OHMs to it while I was at Napa and it gave me a reading between the old and the new. I came home, hooked it up and turn the accessories on and the thing read.

I saw on google that if you have a temperature difference of 15 degrees between the MAF...I think...and the sensor then it reads xxx. I'm gonna go ahead and jack up the car tomorrow and hose off the radiator area...another thing I read...and pull apart the intake in hopes that its just dirty. Go from there I guess.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

What year is your car?

SuprSaiyjinBroli

2002.

I read another article on google...said to clean up the radiator and maf to help assist with maf/coolant communication. It said if there was a large difference in temperature it'd give me that code as well.

Jacked up the Vette...it looks like ****. The entire radiator looks like its covered in cat hair...I'm gonna spray it down real good and take apart the intake and pull the MAF. Maybe something...

I also unplugged the battery...gonna try and reset everything and go from there while I pull the AIR system.

6898camaross

I'm starting to not have any faith in this site I can't get any answers either bro sorry I can't help free bump though

SuprSaiyjinBroli

I'm not frustrated...It'd be nice though if somebody helped out. I'll keep plugging away at it myself until I get it.

I do agree something is wierd. I mean the sensor is brand new...why wouldn't it work...followed the wires back...nothing wrong. Fuses check out.

Either way, I started the A.I.R. System Removal tonight. Got the motor and the driver side tubing/tubes out. I'll do the passenger tomorrow.

SuprSaiyjinBroli

I finished out the ZIP Tie Mod for the airfilter...I'm not gonna buy an intake when I'll have a blower pretty soon...and installed the CAGS bypass tonight. I dropped her down off the jackstands.

The battery has been unhooked for days now so I should have cleared any ECU Confusion.

I just have to unbolt the AIR system from the back of the manifold, block off the air trees on the headers and crank it up to see how she is acting.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Never heard about that 15 degree thing between MAF....don't see how that can be possible. The MAF reads outside air temp (80*F-100*F in summer for example)....temp sensor is never below 160*F while its running.

Taking the intake off isn't gonna do anything...there'a no correlation between the intake and temp sensor readings.

You might have a PCM issue or a short in that one temp sensor wire. Maybe check the pin in the PCM that corresponds to that temp sensor....see if its discolored in the pin row.

Oh...the coolant LEVEL sensor on the back of the radiator under the cap.....they are notorious for failing. You'll need to either replace it or just unplug it to keep the light off.

Also...maybe whatever it was that broke the black plastic part on the old sensor.....damaged the wire plug end........maybe.....

.

SuprSaiyjinBroli

Update.

I pulled the intake manifold and cleaned everything up...it was freakin' filthy man. So bad. The previous owner didn't love this car like I do...

I was able to get that bolt that was holding down AIR Piping...pulled all that and that bolt.

Hooked everything back up...tightened it all down...just need a barb for the TB Bypass to be complete and some block off plates. Once I get that I'll hook the battery back up and take her for a spin.

I agree about the MAF...but I mean I read it and was gonna have it all off anyway so I just checked her to make sure it was clean. Cleaned up the radiator a bit also.

I'm confused on the PCM/ECU...looks like I have two areas. One under the hood and one in the car under the floor board. I checked the owners manual and it didn't look like anything corresponded to Coolant. I saw a lot of fan fuses...no coolant. Maybe I should give it another look. I'll do this step again tomorrow and report back.

The Level sensor is good...its the temperature.

You mean the pig tail...? I supposed that it may have damaged the female end...but it reads for awhile. The error is occuring when the car got up to temperature.

I'll check those fuses under the floor board again man...

Deviant LS1

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you have air in the coolant system. The coolant sensor can't read temp in an air pocket and it will peg the gauge. Once the air pocket moves through it will get back to normal temp.

SuprSaiyjinBroli

Fuses are fine

I was leaning towards this but I thought I let her heat up long enough without the cap to burp the system.

I'll try it again.

I'll pull the cap and just take it for a drive for awhile in hopes she'll hit up and spit out that air pocket...we'll go from there.

SuprSaiyjinBroli

I drove it for about an hour and a half straight the other day...45 minutes of that were with the cap off...no issues. Put the cap on...no issues.

I guess I'm good to go and the car felt good with the new air it was taking in.

I'll be back at the track soon