No starting, security light on, new battery tonight
10-31-2011, 10:00 PM
#1
No starting, security light on, new battery tonight My car would not start so I replaced my battery since this happened earlier in the week. I just put a brand new battery in not an hour ago and it didn't help. My security light has been on for nearly 2 years with no starting issues. I hear 1 solid click when I turn the key to start all the way pressed. If I leave my key with all accessories on I hear the my fuel pump, some electrical parts of the car buzzing as usual. I swapped the ignition and starter modules, fan and ignition and nothing worked. My alternator was replaced last year. Also I do have a check engine light which was a P0108 I believe. With all this being said do you all think this is related to my starter or the security light, or something else.
10-31-2011, 11:11 PM
#4
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Well, if your battery is good (Not all new batteries are good), then I would try to tap on your starter with a hammer while a buddy cranks it. You may have two separate issues. If you hear a click (And it is coming from your starter while cranking) you may just have a bad starter.
Also, if you had a bad battery or low voltage, you should hear a bunch of rapid clicks.
Also, if you had a bad battery or low voltage, you should hear a bunch of rapid clicks.
11-01-2011, 04:44 AM
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Had a similar problem myself a year ago, its the security light. The chip in the key relates to the passcode 2 system these cars have on them. In the end it was the body control module that needed to be replaced. Stealership did mine for $525!
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11-02-2011, 06:15 PM
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I did the same thing. I took my multi-meter and got the exact resistance values for my key chip. Then swung over to RadioShack spent 5 bucks on a pair of resistors, soldered them together via the VATS connector plugged it in and Ole Girl fired right up.
11-02-2011, 09:57 PM
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Had this problem with my car last year. It was the vat's system. I soldered a resistor in to bypass the vats. First find your resistance by checking how many ohms the resistance in your key is with a meter, then go to radio shack and by the proper resistor. under the driver side of the dash when you pull the trim piece off, there will be 2 small wires going into the steering column(one white and one purple IIRC). Those wires are clipped into a harness that has 2 white wires on the other side of it. Unclip the harness, and either cut the white wires back from the harness and solder in the resistor or bend the ends of the resistor and push it into the pin connector slots of the harness. Hope this helps and if you have any questions, pm me and I can try to help. And if you're not sure the vats system is the problem, the dollar you will spend on a couple resistors won't kill you anyway
11-03-2011, 04:56 PM
#15
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Dude I dunno why your calling them the stealership, thats about average for a NEW BCM + programming. Dont like it? Take it somewhere else.
11-03-2011, 05:06 PM
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11-03-2011, 10:02 PM
#17
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Sorry to hear that. Im a Chevy tech and I gotta tell you, were a pretty honest and upfront group of guys. Some repairs are expensive, and some stuff ends up being free. Sucks to hear about shitty dealerships, i guess its true that they are out there. Anyways, OP a sure fire way to test the high side of the starting system is to jump I believe its 30 and 87a at the starter relay. Just do it for a second. If the car cranks than the starter circuit itself works and the issue is in the control circuit. If you have a theft light on then its likely related to that. Gotta scan the BCM/TDM (forget which one F bodys use for theft) and see what the code is.
11-03-2011, 11:00 PM
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Sorry to hear that. Im a Chevy tech and I gotta tell you, were a pretty honest and upfront group of guys. Some repairs are expensive, and some stuff ends up being free. Sucks to hear about shitty dealerships, i guess its true that they are out there. Anyways, OP a sure fire way to test the high side of the starting system is to jump I believe its 30 and 87a at the starter relay. Just do it for a second. If the car cranks than the starter circuit itself works and the issue is in the control circuit. If you have a theft light on then its likely related to that. Gotta scan the BCM/TDM (forget which one F bodys use for theft) and see what the code is.
11-04-2011, 12:30 AM
#19
Alright so I have read that there may be a frayed wire. That makes sense to me since I wiggled around the column and considering my column is loose that makes sense. Also the resistor in the dash and pretty much everything here makes sense. I probably won't have an update till maybe wednesday next week since i'm out of town. But if anyone has some pics of what they did that would be great, i'm a visual kinda guy. Thanks again everyone!
