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Car won't start. Gauge lights work but not the actual gauges...
I need help. I've got a race in less than two weeks and still need to get the car tuned. --98 Camaro Z28
Here are some fact to help describe what has been done to the car. The car is now gutted, no hvac, no air pump, no egr, and no evap. Has a 6 pt roll cage. Has longtube headers, psc powering steering pump w/ cooler, improved racing oil pan baffle, and revxtreme catch can system. I have also removed the door harness as my doors are gutted for the nascar bars.
I got the dash back in last night and hooked the gauge cluster up to find out that the lights work -- brake light comes on(deleted the parking brake), Airbag light comes on(deleted both airbags), and the check gauges light comes on. However, the gauges & odometer do not work. The voltage gauge shows zero but I know the battery is not bad as I put it in my trans am tonight and it started right up. When I turn the ignition to start the car nothing happens except for a small black box clicks and the headlights turn off (but only when the key is turn to start the car). This black box is not the BCM.... (some kind of relay..??) Throughout the tear down of my car I would attempt to start it to make sure that I didn't unplug anything important..... the last time I tried was after I removed the door harness... and the engine would turn over when I tried to start the car. I have checked all of the fuses, they're fine. I even swapped the gauge fuse with the one out of my Trans Am to make sure that wasn't the issue -- no luck. I've made sure that all of the grounds inside the car are good. The ground coming off the side of the block on the driver's side looks to be in good shape. The alternator has been reconnected properly. I've run out of ideas.... why would the gauges not work but the lights do? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any ideas? Anybody? What powers the gauges? I wonder if the pcm was damaged when the cage was getting welded in the car???
Another thing I just remembered... there is a connector above the rear end that is not plugged into anything... I can't remember if that went to the evap system or not. I don't think it plugs into the fuel pump though.... and I know its not the ABS connector that goes onto the top of the rear end.
__________________ 2001 Camaro Z28 M6 - Sold
1994 Trans Am M6 - Sold
1998 Camaro Z28
#11 American Iron
Last edited by athornt2; 11-18-2011 at 07:16 AM..
Reason: Added info
You were right, that is the DRL module. Good call! The connector that is not plugged in goes to the EVAP -- found that on a schematic.
Here is where I stand --
1) Put the battery in my trans am and it fired right up.
2) check alternator connections -- fine
3) Re-did all grounds inside the car
4) Took the dash off and inspected wiring on the back of the fuse box.
5) Pulled every fuse and inspected them - including the two fuse boxes in the engine bay
6) Swapped the gauge fuse with the one in the Trans Am
7) Swapped the starter relay with a fan relay
Put multimeter on the battery... 11.7 volts with ignition on -- when grounding from both the battery and the chassis.
Checked for continuity @ the starter relay. The starter relay is not being grounded. I attached a wire to a chassis ground and then into the relay terminal to ground it and stuffed the relay on top. After that I was able to activate the starter, however the car won't actually start. -- Eliminated ignition switch issue.
The gauges still are not working. The fan relay next to the starter relay is grounded. What provides the ground for the starter circuit? I have a bad feeling that something inside the car is not plugged and has been thrown away when I was gutting the car. I did that on my LT1 car... although the gauges never quit working... but it wouldn't fire until I replugged a relay from the passenger side airbag back in.
The module that I thought was the VATS module that clicks is actually the daytime running lights module....