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Old 12-25-2011, 01:44 AM   #1
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Default Best way to flush the Coolant?

Hi all,

I want to know whats the best way to flush the coolant?
I have a 99 WS6, and the Dex-cool is starting to look a little.. muddy brown.

It all looks liquid, but I have heard WAY too many horror stories and I think I just need to flush this and go to traditional green.

What is the best method to ditch that stuff? And is there anything that will go when I flush it?

Thanks,
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #2
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Best/easiest way to flush and get every drop of old coolant out.

****My power steering fluid leaked into my block, so it was bad, but this flush process works for normal maintenance flushes too. You might just want to skip the degreaser stages.****
-Cold engine.
-Remove radiator fill cap.
-Remove the t-stat from the housing. ((Buy a new t-stat housing gasket, they're like $3.00)) Leave the housing attached to the rubber radiator hose, just remove the 2 housing bolts and pull it away from the water pump to get to the t-stat. (2-3 minute job).
-Put t-stat housing back on. (1 minute) Just put one bolt in, no need to put them both in, there’s no pressure in the system during the flush.
-Take the entire radiator drain valve (petcock) "off" and let it drain, don't just open the valve itself. It'll drain faster with it off and that’s what you want. ((Buy a new petcock valve before starting this flush process, sometimes they break when you remove them all the way just because they're cheap plastic and they get briddle over time, they're like $2.00))
-Take a hose and stick it in the radiator fill cap, running medium to high.
-Start the engine when the radiator looks like its full again.
-Turn heat on full blast
-Let it run for about 15-20 minutes or until the water is running out the drain CLEAR.
-((If you want to, you can wait till it runs clear, "close" the drain valve, add some degreaser (I use ½ gallon of Formula 88 to clean mine) and let it run for 15 minutes, then let it sit for 15 minutes, then run it for 5 minutes, then drain it all again. Then open the drain and put the hose in for about 5 more minutes and run it all out till its CLEAR. The degreaser will help break up the crap thats stuck DEEP in the BLOCK that sits and swirls and doesn't like to come out.)) ***NO…degreaser will not hurt anything.***
-When it runs clear your entire system is clean.
-Remove the overflow reservoir from the car and clean it out real good. (I had to use gasoline to clean mine out because the sludge and grime was so thick inside. The gas broke it all down and then it flushed right out. I filled it about 1/3 up with gasoline and shook the hell out of it real vigorously, the black stuff kept coming out. I did that like 4 separate times with gasoline till no more chunks of black crap came out. Make sure the lines that go to the reservoir are also cleaned out. Or just buy a new piece of 3/8” heater hose and replace that line, 3 feet will do, then cut to fit. My sludge came from my power steering fluid leaking into my coolant system.)
-Put the t-stat back in.
-Put the overflow reservoir back in.
-Put the drain valve back in. Use the new one, what the hell.
-Put half a jug of Dexcool in the radiator. (Or if you live in very cold places, 1 to 1 ½ jugs of Dexcool)
-Fill the rest with water.
***You do not need to use distilled water, clean hose water is just fine, just make sure your city water is clean and not total crap quality.

**Bleeding the system of air:
Take the radiator cap off when its COLD, top it off, start it up and let it idle, and let it warm up till the t-stat opens. I rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose like 20 times each while its warming up to help move any air bubbles through the system and by the t-stat on the engine side. When the t-stat opens you’ll see the level drop as you squeeze the hoses, its sucking the coolant through the system. You will also see the coolant start to flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down a lot, IMMEDIATELY top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop when the t-stat closes. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. When the level does NOT drop down when the t-stat opens and coolant is flowing....you're system is free of air bubbles. I always squeeze the upper hose during the whole process to keep any air bubbles moving through. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens for the first time to make sure it’s not sitting there overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open. Sometimes you just have to work those hoses to move the air through. Even after it seems topped off after a couple cycles…check it the next time you have a cold engine…top off if needed.

.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:21 AM   #3
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I do mine just like ls6427 ^ Ill be due to do it again next summer/fall.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:04 PM   #4
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If it's looking muddy, there's potentially air seeping in somewhere or mixing with oil.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:57 PM   #5
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I'm going to college for automtive technology and we have a BG coolant flush machine. Flushes the whole system without any effort. I know most people will not have a machine, but I'm sure the method above works great too. But I would not go back with Dex-Cool. I've also heard a lot of bad stories. Air leaking into the Dex-Cool could cause it to solidify and could cause engine failure. I don't use Dex-Cool in any of my vehicles. Our college only uses yellow antifreeze. It's been tested to be better than green. I recommend yellow too.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:53 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by zanthor991 View Post
I've also heard a lot of bad stories.
bad stories exactly... as in not entirely true.
dex-cool has had problems much of which is taken out of context and then incorrect conclusions perpetuate false info.
Ford has even switched to dexcool in the 2010 or 2011 mustangs, you can look it up.

your best bet is if you have ill feelings towards dexcool, just get prestone or zerex "all makes" stuff from a local store, that is basically your only alternative anyways unless you are going to go to dealer or something and buy their specific brand, or mail order stuff. Traditional green which is the 3yr silicated antifreeze is not available anymore, it's all extended life stuff now.

you cannot go by the color of antifreeze.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:35 AM   #7
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Did they really just start placing it in the 2010 & 2011 mustangs?

Oh I know, going off by color isn't the way to go - I was just referencing the traditional Antifreeze/coolant, but yeah I guess just flushing the dexcool often enough should keep it in working order?

Its definitely not muddy, I just know it looks a little browner then the original orange it is.


Thanks for the info!!!
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:17 PM   #8
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I don't bother with the plastic Radiator drains, I just pull the bottom hose.
Refill with water idle the car until the gauge starts to move and drain again, and repeat until the water drains clear. I pinch off the overflow while the car cools, until I can clean the overflow.
I fill the engine through the top hose, connect the top hose fill the Radiator through the cap, run the car with the heat on until I get a bubble free coolant flow from the bypass nipple that flows into the radiator neck. I always use the 50/50 premixed longlife antifreeze, just fill and drive, leave the heat on for a few days and be sure to recheck the overflow tank.
DexCool just causes more Propblems than its worth IMO.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS6427 View Post
Best/easiest way to flush and get every drop of old coolant out.

****My power steering fluid leaked into my block, so it was bad, but this flush process works for normal maintenance flushes too. You might just want to skip the degreaser stages.****
-Cold engine.
-Remove radiator fill cap.
-Remove the t-stat from the housing. ((Buy a new t-stat housing gasket, they're like $3.00)) Leave the housing attached to the rubber radiator hose, just remove the 2 housing bolts and pull it away from the water pump to get to the t-stat. (2-3 minute job).
-Put t-stat housing back on. (1 minute) Just put one bolt in, no need to put them both in, there’s no pressure in the system during the flush.
-Take the entire radiator drain valve (petcock) "off" and let it drain, don't just open the valve itself. It'll drain faster with it off and that’s what you want. ((Buy a new petcock valve before starting this flush process, sometimes they break when you remove them all the way just because they're cheap plastic and they get briddle over time, they're like $2.00))
-Take a hose and stick it in the radiator fill cap, running medium to high.
-Start the engine when the radiator looks like its full again.
-Turn heat on full blast
-Let it run for about 15-20 minutes or until the water is running out the drain CLEAR.
-((If you want to, you can wait till it runs clear, "close" the drain valve, add some degreaser (I use ½ gallon of Formula 88 to clean mine) and let it run for 15 minutes, then let it sit for 15 minutes, then run it for 5 minutes, then drain it all again. Then open the drain and put the hose in for about 5 more minutes and run it all out till its CLEAR. The degreaser will help break up the crap thats stuck DEEP in the BLOCK that sits and swirls and doesn't like to come out.)) ***NO…degreaser will not hurt anything.***
-When it runs clear your entire system is clean.
-Remove the overflow reservoir from the car and clean it out real good. (I had to use gasoline to clean mine out because the sludge and grime was so thick inside. The gas broke it all down and then it flushed right out. I filled it about 1/3 up with gasoline and shook the hell out of it real vigorously, the black stuff kept coming out. I did that like 4 separate times with gasoline till no more chunks of black crap came out. Make sure the lines that go to the reservoir are also cleaned out. Or just buy a new piece of 3/8” heater hose and replace that line, 3 feet will do, then cut to fit. My sludge came from my power steering fluid leaking into my coolant system.)
-Put the t-stat back in.
-Put the overflow reservoir back in.
-Put the drain valve back in. Use the new one, what the hell.
-Put half a jug of Dexcool in the radiator. (Or if you live in very cold places, 1 to 1 ½ jugs of Dexcool)
-Fill the rest with water.
***You do not need to use distilled water, clean hose water is just fine, just make sure your city water is clean and not total crap quality.

**Bleeding the system of air:
Take the radiator cap off when its COLD, top it off, start it up and let it idle, and let it warm up till the t-stat opens. I rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hose like 20 times each while its warming up to help move any air bubbles through the system and by the t-stat on the engine side. When the t-stat opens you’ll see the level drop as you squeeze the hoses, its sucking the coolant through the system. You will also see the coolant start to flow in the radiator fill neck, once it starts to flow the level should drop down a lot, IMMEDIATELY top it off with coolant/water. Then the flow will stop when the t-stat closes. Wait one more time for the t-stat to open again and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it a 3rd time if you want to make sure. When the level does NOT drop down when the t-stat opens and coolant is flowing....you're system is free of air bubbles. I always squeeze the upper hose during the whole process to keep any air bubbles moving through. Always works like a charm. Just keep checking your temp gauge until the t-stat opens for the first time to make sure it’s not sitting there overheating from a trapped bubble. May take 10-15 minutes for the t-stat to open the first time.
If you do start to get hot while sitting there and the t-stat will not open…..you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Shut the engine off and rapidly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses again. Then start the engine again and see if the t-stat will open. Sometimes you just have to work those hoses to move the air through. Even after it seems topped off after a couple cycles…check it the next time you have a cold engine…top off if needed.

.
This is great information! I do just have one question however..
Do you have any pics of the Thermostat? I'm not quite sure where it is, or how it looks when its open or closed?..

Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777Shock777 View Post
This is great information! I do just have one question however..
Do you have any pics of the Thermostat? I'm not quite sure where it is, or how it looks when its open or closed?..

Thanks!
The t-stat is inside the metal housing connected to the water pump, its clamped to the end of the lower radiator hose, or the hose coming out of the passengers side of the radiator. That metal housing has two bolts to remove and that metal housing comes off. The t-stat sits in that metal housing.

The older style has the t-stat tension mounted to that metal housing and its hard to get it off, but it does come off. The newer style has the t-stat just sitting in there, it falls right out.

Buy a new gasket for the t-stat too....they're like $3.00

Old style...t-stat is tension mounted to the housing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hypertech-10...#ht_2387wt_760

New style, it just sits in the housing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C6-Corvette-...7#ht_500wt_715

.
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427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
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Last edited by LS6427; 01-23-2012 at 11:40 PM..
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS6427 View Post
The t-stat is inside the metal housing connected to the water pump, its clamped to the end of the lower radiator hose, or the hose coming out of the passengers side of the radiator. That metal housing has two bolts to remove and that metal housing comes off. The t-stat sits in that metal housing.

The older style has the t-stat tension mounted to that metal housing and its hard to get it off, but it does come off. The newer style has the t-stat just sitting in there, it falls right out.

Buy a new gasket for the t-stat too....they're like $3.00

Old style...t-stat is tension mounted to the housing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hypertech-10...#ht_2387wt_760

New style, it just sits in the housing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C6-Corvette-...7#ht_500wt_715

.
Awesome! I was able to locate it!!
I guess I'm still a little confused on bleeding the air from the system, you mentioned it would open once all the air bubbles were out...

What do you mean by open & close? (sorry I just want to know as much as possible for this).
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 777Shock777 View Post
Awesome! I was able to locate it!!
I guess I'm still a little confused on bleeding the air from the system, you mentioned it would open once all the air bubbles were out...

What do you mean by open & close? (sorry I just want to know as much as possible for this).
Well, when people speak of an air bubble in the system.....that air bubble gets up against the t-stat, "on the engine side". Not on the side of the t-stat where the metal housing is or the rubber radiator hose.

The bubble is inside the water pump. So, you start the engine, its starts to warm up because the pistons are hauling *** up and down. But the water/coolant thats in the heads is getting warm and transferring heat through that water/coolant. But when that heat transfer reaches towards the t-stat, there's an air bubble inbetween it and the actual t-stat. Water transfers (conducts) heat through it many many times faster and easier than heat transfers through "air". So as the water/coolant in the heads is rapidly increasing, that air bubble is not getting all that heated. So you have water/coolant pushed up against an air bubble trying to transfer heat to that air bubble, which then would transfer heat to the actual t-stat, so the t-stat can open, allowing the water/coolant to flow because the water pump is always spinning and trying to circulate water/coolant. The air bubble is basically being a barricade for heat to touch the t-stat. One side of the air bubble has very hot water/coolant touching it, the other side of the bubble is touching the t-stat. Air doesn't transfer heat through it that well. So, since the temp sensor is in the drivers side head, its going to sense that really hot water/coolant that keeps getting hotter and hotter and showing an overheat condition. While that air bubble is basically shielding that same heat from getting to the t-stat.
In an normal situation, no air bubble, you start the engine, the pistons cause heat, transfer of that heat goes through the cylinder walls and heats the water/coolant. Then that heat slowly transfers through the water/coolant until it reaches the t-stat. THEN...the t-stat senses that heat and it opens up. Water/coolant can now flow. THEN, simply, that hot water thats been sitting in the heads and the engine block getting hot basically just swaps places with the cooler water.coolant thats been just sitting motionless in the radiator. As the water-coolant starts to flow because the t-stat opened up.......as soon as that cooler water/coolant makes a full swap through the heads/engine it makes it all the way through so that cooler water/coolant is now running past the t-stat, the t-stat senses cooler temps and closes.
NOW....that hot water/coolant that swapped places with the cooler water/coolant is now sitting motionless ion the radiator....and either the forward motion of the car is causing cooling of that hot coolant via the front lower air dam.....or the fans do the work if need be, depending on temperature.
So, while that water/coolant is being cooled....that cooler water/coolant that just went into the heads/engine is getting heated.......

and so on and so on.....that process keeps happening. T-stat is opening and closing, swapping hot coolant for cooler coolant.

So that bubble, stuck in that spot.......will not allow the t-stat to open.

Squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses always works, because you are forcing that air bubble past the t-stat, allowing water/coolant to touch the t-stat.

Confusing....or understandable...lol....?

.
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427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
-Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:27 PM   #13
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Well, when people speak of an air bubble in the system.....that air bubble gets up against the t-stat, "on the engine side". Not on the side of the t-stat where the metal housing is or the rubber radiator hose.

The bubble is inside the water pump. So, you start the engine, its starts to warm up because the pistons are hauling *** up and down. But the water/coolant thats in the heads is getting warm and transferring heat through that water/coolant. But when that heat transfer reaches towards the t-stat, there's an air bubble inbetween it and the actual t-stat. Water transfers (conducts) heat through it many many times faster and easier than heat transfers through "air". So as the water/coolant in the heads is rapidly increasing, that air bubble is not getting all that heated. So you have water/coolant pushed up against an air bubble trying to transfer heat to that air bubble, which then would transfer heat to the actual t-stat, so the t-stat can open, allowing the water/coolant to flow because the water pump is always spinning and trying to circulate water/coolant. The air bubble is basically being a barricade for heat to touch the t-stat. One side of the air bubble has very hot water/coolant touching it, the other side of the bubble is touching the t-stat. Air doesn't transfer heat through it that well. So, since the temp sensor is in the drivers side head, its going to sense that really hot water/coolant that keeps getting hotter and hotter and showing an overheat condition. While that air bubble is basically shielding that same heat from getting to the t-stat.
In an normal situation, no air bubble, you start the engine, the pistons cause heat, transfer of that heat goes through the cylinder walls and heats the water/coolant. Then that heat slowly transfers through the water/coolant until it reaches the t-stat. THEN...the t-stat senses that heat and it opens up. Water/coolant can now flow. THEN, simply, that hot water thats been sitting in the heads and the engine block getting hot basically just swaps places with the cooler water.coolant thats been just sitting motionless in the radiator. As the water-coolant starts to flow because the t-stat opened up.......as soon as that cooler water/coolant makes a full swap through the heads/engine it makes it all the way through so that cooler water/coolant is now running past the t-stat, the t-stat senses cooler temps and closes.
NOW....that hot water/coolant that swapped places with the cooler water/coolant is now sitting motionless ion the radiator....and either the forward motion of the car is causing cooling of that hot coolant via the front lower air dam.....or the fans do the work if need be, depending on temperature.
So, while that water/coolant is being cooled....that cooler water/coolant that just went into the heads/engine is getting heated.......

and so on and so on.....that process keeps happening. T-stat is opening and closing, swapping hot coolant for cooler coolant.

So that bubble, stuck in that spot.......will not allow the t-stat to open.

Squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses always works, because you are forcing that air bubble past the t-stat, allowing water/coolant to touch the t-stat.

Confusing....or understandable...lol....?

.
Wow, thanks man! See, this is why I love LS1Tech, you have smart people that help n00bs like me learn!

No thats great information! I really appreciate it
I had the same thing happen with my Power Steering "cooler" and now the two are mixed
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:39 PM   #14
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Wow, thanks man! See, this is why I love LS1Tech, you have smart people that help n00bs like me learn!

No thats great information! I really appreciate it
I had the same thing happen with my Power Steering "cooler" and now the two are mixed
My pleasure...........

.
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1998 WS6 T/A, AES 390ci fully forged iron block, LS6 intake, LS1 heads, 239/235 .600/.600 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grot LT's, 3" w/Magnaflow, 4L60E, Strange 12 bolt, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, UMI PH Bar, LCA's w/relocation brackets, SFC's, LG G2 Super Springs. Hals FR, Bilsteins RR, 275/315.

427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
-Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #15
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bad stories exactly... as in not entirely true.
dex-cool has had problems much of which is taken out of context and then incorrect conclusions perpetuate false info.


Dexcool will work fine in a properly maintained cooling system. I generally change it more often than the factory recommendation, but I've never had any issues with it in my many GM vehicles.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:11 PM   #16
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My pleasure...........

.
Yeah I'm literally taking your info down and using it this Saturday for my new PS cooler

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Dexcool will work fine in a properly maintained cooling system. I generally change it more often than the factory recommendation, but I've never had any issues with it in my many GM vehicles.
^ This is exactly what I've heard. If you change it often then you won't have that grimy brown crap. Sadly, my car still has the factory dexcool -.- no more this saturday!
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:12 PM   #17
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Dexcool will work fine in a properly maintained cooling system. I generally change it more often than the factory recommendation, but I've never had any issues with it in my many GM vehicles.
Yup....14 years with Dexcool, its always crystal clear clean......never does it get dirty or gunked up. People have issues with their cooling systems. Air is getting in somehow or other fluids are getting in there.

.
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1998 WS6 T/A, AES 390ci fully forged iron block, LS6 intake, LS1 heads, 239/235 .600/.600 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grot LT's, 3" w/Magnaflow, 4L60E, Strange 12 bolt, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, UMI PH Bar, LCA's w/relocation brackets, SFC's, LG G2 Super Springs. Hals FR, Bilsteins RR, 275/315.

427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
-Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:14 PM   #18
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Yeah I'm literally taking your info down and using it this Saturday for my new PS cooler


If you got power steering fluid in the cooling system....do the degreaser.

Yea, $40.00 and 30 minutes is all it takes to put that aftermarket cooler on.

.
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1998 WS6 T/A, AES 390ci fully forged iron block, LS6 intake, LS1 heads, 239/235 .600/.600 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grot LT's, 3" w/Magnaflow, 4L60E, Strange 12 bolt, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, UMI PH Bar, LCA's w/relocation brackets, SFC's, LG G2 Super Springs. Hals FR, Bilsteins RR, 275/315.

427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
-Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:14 AM   #19
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If you got power steering fluid in the cooling system....do the degreaser.

Yea, $40.00 and 30 minutes is all it takes to put that aftermarket cooler on.

.
What do you think of Purple Power as a degreaser? (No formula 88 here in Utah and I don't want to order more stuff, since my parts will all be here by tomorrow).
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=40266_0_0_

I have used this stuff before Outside of the car but never in it.

And if I could, how do you recommend cleaning out the PS system?
Could I use the "garden hose mod" as well? by leaving that in the reservoir and turning all the way from left to right?
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #20
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What do you think of Purple Power as a degreaser? (No formula 88 here in Utah and I don't want to order more stuff, since my parts will all be here by tomorrow).
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=40266_0_0_

I have used this stuff before Outside of the car but never in it.

And if I could, how do you recommend cleaning out the PS system?
Could I use the "garden hose mod" as well? by leaving that in the reservoir and turning all the way from left to right?
As long as Purple Power says....NON Corrosive to metal, especially aluminum.

Here ya go...for the power steering system. Don't try to do a FLUSH, just replace the fluid.

*************************************************
Power Steering Fluid Flush:

You and 2 friends.

Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands so you can turn the wheels left and right.

Engine and fluids….COLD.

Remove the hose that attaches to the bottom of the reservoir. Immediately cap that port with a vacuum port type rubber cap so the fluid doesn't pour out. You can buy assorted cap kits at the auto parts store. Or you can use a 2 foot piece of 3/8" heater hose to quickly slip on the port and just point the other end up higher than the reservoir cap so none comes out. Tape it or clamp it in place.

The hose you just removed from the reservoir.......Point it down under the car into a drain pan. This is the hose either coming from the factory cooler (if you have one).....or its coming from the rack (if you do not have the factory cooler). Either way, doesn't matter.

Have a friend hold that hose into the pan and keep his thumb over the end and wait there. The entire flush is a matter of 2 minutes.

Have another friend with 4 new OPEN bottles of PS fluid ready to start dumping it into the reservoir.

You get in the car and start the engine.

Your friend removes his finger from the hose end and lets the fluid shoot into the pan. As you turn the wheels FULL right and left have your friend pour new fluid into the reservoir as the level drops. It could drop fast so be ready to pour. Fluid will come shooting out of the hose into the pan.

As soon as the friend holding the hose sees clean new fluid coming out into the pan.............stop the engine.
(if the friend that is pouring fluid in ever sees the reservoir about to run dry because he cannot pour it in fast enough, simply have him tell you to shut the engine off. Top it off and start the engine again. Don't let it run dry.)

Put the hose back onto the reservoir, clamp it. Top it off with PS fluid.

Your done.

CHECK to see if during this project you spilled any power steering fluid onto or into the alternator. If you did, simply drench it with WD-40 or SeaFoam spray to clean it. Then rinse it real good with hose water. Go for a 10 minute drive, take a bottle of fluid with you in case you hear any noise you can pull over immediately and top it off. Then come back and check the level one more time. Its fine to take the cap off when its hot. Top off the fluid if needed.

.
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1998 WS6 T/A, AES 390ci fully forged iron block, LS6 intake, LS1 heads, 239/235 .600/.600 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grot LT's, 3" w/Magnaflow, 4L60E, Strange 12 bolt, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, UMI PH Bar, LCA's w/relocation brackets, SFC's, LG G2 Super Springs. Hals FR, Bilsteins RR, 275/315.

427ci stroker died at 173,000 miles...what a great engine that was, built by the late, great - Dave DiLuca...RIP...
-Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:34 PM
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