Write up for steering rack replacement?
03-22-2012, 11:15 PM
#1
Write up for steering rack replacement? My power steering rack needs replaced, it's clunking, loose, old and was formerly leaky and two mechanics have agreed it needs replaced. Does anyone have an F-body specific write up do replace it, I did find generic writes ups but our cars tend to be "less than generic" when it comes to repairs 
. I've done headers, plug changes, tranny fluid changes, rim swaps, filters, wires, oil, brakes, rotors and all the usual maintenance that I can do myself. With that being said is doing a power steering rack a job that can be done on stands alone? Any tips and pictures (i'm a visual kinda guy) you can provide would be great.
Thanks!
. I've done headers, plug changes, tranny fluid changes, rim swaps, filters, wires, oil, brakes, rotors and all the usual maintenance that I can do myself. With that being said is doing a power steering rack a job that can be done on stands alone? Any tips and pictures (i'm a visual kinda guy) you can provide would be great.Thanks!
Last edited by HumanNipple; 03-23-2012 at 12:22 AM.
03-23-2012, 08:41 AM
#2
well its not that bad- better if done on a lift, to me the worst part was driver side mount bolt- the brainiacs put the bolt through from the top with the nut on the bottom. problem is the oil pan is above and you cant get it out- tried jacking the motor- had to R+R the alternator to get it up enough to clear- kind of a PITA I'd suggest install bolt from bottom with the nut on top. Also when you disconnect the steering column dot let it spin around - that can hurt the clock spring for the air bag IIRC
hope this helps out
hope this helps out
03-26-2012, 02:24 AM
#3
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I did mine on jack stands and it can be done, I don't have any pictures though. Some steps/tips
1. After getting the car jacked up center the steering wheel and some how make it stay centered with a bungee cord/rope or I used the seat belt. This will eliminate the risk of miss aligning the steering shaft and breaking the clock spring for the airbags.
2. Disconnect the bolt holding the steering shaft to the rack, think it's a 10mm maybe. Anyways pull that out and the steering shaft will slip off.
3. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles, might have to remove your front wheels and smack the steering knuckle to get the tie rod end to come out.
4. Remove the two large mounting bolts on the rack. The driver side one is a bitch as zman stated. I ended up just cutting that one in half and getting a new bolt, I couldn't get the motor high enough to get it out. Make sure to install the bolt from the bottom when going back together.
5. Disconnect all the fluid lines
6. Not sure if the new rack will come with new tie rod ends, I would guess not. So when transferring the tie rods over make sure to count how many turns it took to get each side off and install them the same amount of turns onto the new rack. This will get to toe close, but I would still take it to an alignment shop to get a toe set.
Also compare the new rack to the original, there are two different options for our cars and the difference is not very noticeable. The angle of the shaft where the steering shaft connects is slightly different.
Hope this helps, good luck.
1. After getting the car jacked up center the steering wheel and some how make it stay centered with a bungee cord/rope or I used the seat belt. This will eliminate the risk of miss aligning the steering shaft and breaking the clock spring for the airbags.
2. Disconnect the bolt holding the steering shaft to the rack, think it's a 10mm maybe. Anyways pull that out and the steering shaft will slip off.
3. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles, might have to remove your front wheels and smack the steering knuckle to get the tie rod end to come out.
4. Remove the two large mounting bolts on the rack. The driver side one is a bitch as zman stated. I ended up just cutting that one in half and getting a new bolt, I couldn't get the motor high enough to get it out. Make sure to install the bolt from the bottom when going back together.
5. Disconnect all the fluid lines
6. Not sure if the new rack will come with new tie rod ends, I would guess not. So when transferring the tie rods over make sure to count how many turns it took to get each side off and install them the same amount of turns onto the new rack. This will get to toe close, but I would still take it to an alignment shop to get a toe set.
Also compare the new rack to the original, there are two different options for our cars and the difference is not very noticeable. The angle of the shaft where the steering shaft connects is slightly different.
Hope this helps, good luck.
06-02-2012, 01:14 PM
#4
4. Remove the two large mounting bolts on the rack. The driver side one is a bitch as zman stated. I ended up just cutting that one in half and getting a new bolt, I couldn't get the motor high enough to get it out. Make sure to install the bolt from the bottom when going back together.
Ouch!!! I kinda figured there was a reason they put the bolts in like that. I was hoping to get the bolts ahead of time but no biggie. Gotta make sure I have some loctite too!
06-03-2012, 10:17 PM
#7
I had to replace my steering rack earlier this year. It was easy. I opted to cut one of the bolts out and install the replacment bolt upside down... All totaled, i had maybe 2 hours in it (on jack stands on my garage floor. It's two rack bolts, two knuckle/spindle bolts, two PS lines and one steering shaft.
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06-05-2012, 08:58 AM
#8
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I too am getting ready to change my rack within the next few weeks. Will I need any special tools or wrenches to get the high pressure line off? I've read a few times of people using a pulley puller or a special shaped wrench to get to the nut. Is it possible to take off all of the lines with basic hand tools and regular wrenches? Also how hard is it to cut the bolt? Will I be able to reach it with some regular bolt cutters? I too would like to know the size of the bolt so I can buy it before hand. Thanks for any help/info.
06-25-2012, 08:01 AM
#9
Update: Just replaced mine. The fluid lines coming off the rack arent too bad, just have several wrenches on hand to get a good angle and not strip the fitting, but if your lines/pump/etc are old, might as well replace those too. I ended up having to unbolt my steering wheel and turn it a few clicks to get it in the middle of the turning range.
The bolt is a royal pain to cut, I went thru several dewalt sawzall blades to get it. Partially because to bolt kept moving but it is tough. Watch the oil pan too, I gouged mine a little, but could be worse if your not paying attention.
For replacement bolt I picked up 1/2" x 3" grade 8 pointing down with washers on each side and put it in the passenger side, fit VERY snug in the sleeve and used the good original bolt on driver side pointing up and blue loctite on bolt bolts. I also used the Moog bushings. All this made for little to no play, probably not that important but I try to get things as good as I can.
The bolt is a royal pain to cut, I went thru several dewalt sawzall blades to get it. Partially because to bolt kept moving but it is tough. Watch the oil pan too, I gouged mine a little, but could be worse if your not paying attention.
For replacement bolt I picked up 1/2" x 3" grade 8 pointing down with washers on each side and put it in the passenger side, fit VERY snug in the sleeve and used the good original bolt on driver side pointing up and blue loctite on bolt bolts. I also used the Moog bushings. All this made for little to no play, probably not that important but I try to get things as good as I can.
09-23-2014, 04:54 PM
#10
Update: Just replaced mine. The fluid lines coming off the rack arent too bad, just have several wrenches on hand to get a good angle and not strip the fitting, but if your lines/pump/etc are old, might as well replace those too. I ended up having to unbolt my steering wheel and turn it a few clicks to get it in the middle of the turning range.
The bolt is a royal pain to cut, I went thru several dewalt sawzall blades to get it. Partially because to bolt kept moving but it is tough. Watch the oil pan too, I gouged mine a little, but could be worse if your not paying attention.
For replacement bolt I picked up 1/2" x 3" grade 8 pointing down with washers on each side and put it in the passenger side, fit VERY snug in the sleeve and used the good original bolt on driver side pointing up and blue loctite on bolt bolts. I also used the Moog bushings. All this made for little to no play, probably not that important but I try to get things as good as I can.
The bolt is a royal pain to cut, I went thru several dewalt sawzall blades to get it. Partially because to bolt kept moving but it is tough. Watch the oil pan too, I gouged mine a little, but could be worse if your not paying attention.
For replacement bolt I picked up 1/2" x 3" grade 8 pointing down with washers on each side and put it in the passenger side, fit VERY snug in the sleeve and used the good original bolt on driver side pointing up and blue loctite on bolt bolts. I also used the Moog bushings. All this made for little to no play, probably not that important but I try to get things as good as I can.
09-24-2014, 02:44 PM
#12
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Which aftermarket/remanned power steering rack is everyone using, as they do NOT make these new for our cars anymore?? 
Is there anything out there better than the Advance/Duralast/Dorman crap???
I do NOT trust their rebuilds (or even new products), despite (some of) their supposed 'lifetime' warranties.
I cannot have mine remanned by Turn One, as this car is my ONLY ride, used every day, and cannot be down for even a quick 'turn around' by them (IF this were not the case, I would definitely send it to them!
).
Is there anything out there better than the Advance/Duralast/Dorman crap???
I do NOT trust their rebuilds (or even new products), despite (some of) their supposed 'lifetime' warranties.
I cannot have mine remanned by Turn One, as this car is my ONLY ride, used every day, and cannot be down for even a quick 'turn around' by them (IF this were not the case, I would definitely send it to them!
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09-26-2014, 02:29 PM
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Now that I remember, yes, I've also heard great things about them in the distant past.
Last edited by dailydriver; 09-27-2014 at 05:33 PM.
09-26-2014, 11:07 PM
#15
The hardest part is cutting the bolt with a sawzall. You need to people, one to hold the bolt from spinning the second to cut. Its not easy but better then having to lift the motor. I bought a used rack and had it sent to Turn One for rebuild. I never ended up using it. My problem was the rubber bushing on the small shaft that runs from the steering rack to the streering column. It was softening up when the car got hot.
09-27-2014, 03:11 PM
#16
Which aftermarket/remanned power steering rack is everyone using, as they do NOT make these new for our cars anymore??
Is there anything out there better than the Advance/Duralast/Dorman crap???
I do NOT trust their rebuilds (or even new products), despite (some of) their supposed 'lifetime' warranties.
I cannot have mine remanned by Turn One, as this car is my ONLY ride, used every day, and cannot be down for even a quick 'turn around' by them (IF this were not the case, I would definitely send it to them! ).
Is there anything out there better than the Advance/Duralast/Dorman crap???
I do NOT trust their rebuilds (or even new products), despite (some of) their supposed 'lifetime' warranties.
I cannot have mine remanned by Turn One, as this car is my ONLY ride, used every day, and cannot be down for even a quick 'turn around' by them (IF this were not the case, I would definitely send it to them!
).Thanks
09-27-2014, 05:36 PM
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05-15-2015, 03:52 PM
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same issue The hardest part is cutting the bolt with a sawzall. You need to people, one to hold the bolt from spinning the second to cut. Its not easy but better then having to lift the motor. I bought a used rack and had it sent to Turn One for rebuild. I never ended up using it. My problem was the rubber bushing on the small shaft that runs from the steering rack to the streering column. It was softening up when the car got hot.
I remove the steering linkage and the C clip for the input but the shaft won't come out- is there something I'm missing
