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Need tips for replacing the Oil Pressure Sending Unit
04-08-2012, 12:02 AM
#1
Need tips for replacing the Oil Pressure Sending Unit I've got big hands and not enough patience/time for following GM's suggested procedure for replacing the oil pressure sending unit. (They suggest disconnecting the fuel rails and removing the intake manifold.)
Does anyone have a trick for getting the thing out? I think I have enough space to remove the unit but am just having issues getting the electrical connector off.
I was able to get more working room by removing the bracket that holds the throttle cables above the intake manifold, but it's not enough. I'm thinking I may have to make a special hook to get the thing off...
Does anyone have a trick for getting the thing out? I think I have enough space to remove the unit but am just having issues getting the electrical connector off.
I was able to get more working room by removing the bracket that holds the throttle cables above the intake manifold, but it's not enough. I'm thinking I may have to make a special hook to get the thing off...
04-08-2012, 12:41 PM
#3
OK - Got it done. If anyone runs in to the same issue, here's how I was able to pull it off.
The tools:
1) Remove the throttle cable bracket on top of the intake manifold with the 10mm deep socket.
2) Use the light, inspection mirror, and hook to unplug the OPSU. The hook is just a coat hanger bent in to a hook measuring 4 3/4" from the tip of the hook to the bend. I was able to lay on top of the engine/air intake and use both hands to move the hook in position to grab the tang of the OPSU electrical connector. This took some patience to get it in the right place, but once I made the hook, it popped right off.
3) Use a ratchet, a 4 1/4" socket extender and an Oil Pressure Switch Socket to remove the sensor. (I used a Lisle Oil Pressure Switch Socket #13250 for 1 1/16 sensors and a custom 4 1/4" socket extension made up of a standard 3" extension, a 1/4"-3/8" adapter, and a 3/8"-1/4" adapter.) You'll have to use both hands to maneuver the socket in place first, pushing the ERG hoses out of the way, then add the extension, and then the socket. As you turn the ratchet, you'll scrape your arms all to hell on the sharp screws/retainers poking down through the cowl. This makes it fun!
Once the socket is loosened, you'll have to pull the ratchet out, then the extender, and then use both hands to pull the socket and sensor up and out.
4) Next, using both hands, get the threads started on the new sensor. Once in place, add the socket, extender, ratchet, and then tighten. As an added bonus, you'll tear your arms up more here. Once tight, use a torque wrench to tighten to 20 N*m. (I recommend using the torque wrench as breaking something or stripping threads in this position would be a real bitch...)
5) Remove the wrench, extender, and socket. Then, using the inspection mirror, find out how the new senor is oriented and snap the plug back in.
I also had the good fortune to own a mechanic's boroscope, which is a wonderful thing to have in situations like this. I was able to use it to confirm the socket was in the correct position and use its periscope attachment to check and make sure the washers were properly seated against the block. (As long as you pay attention to the turns coming out and the turns going in on the new sensor, you should be pretty sure of things just by going on feel alone.)
The tools:
1) Remove the throttle cable bracket on top of the intake manifold with the 10mm deep socket.
2) Use the light, inspection mirror, and hook to unplug the OPSU. The hook is just a coat hanger bent in to a hook measuring 4 3/4" from the tip of the hook to the bend. I was able to lay on top of the engine/air intake and use both hands to move the hook in position to grab the tang of the OPSU electrical connector. This took some patience to get it in the right place, but once I made the hook, it popped right off.
3) Use a ratchet, a 4 1/4" socket extender and an Oil Pressure Switch Socket to remove the sensor. (I used a Lisle Oil Pressure Switch Socket #13250 for 1 1/16 sensors and a custom 4 1/4" socket extension made up of a standard 3" extension, a 1/4"-3/8" adapter, and a 3/8"-1/4" adapter.) You'll have to use both hands to maneuver the socket in place first, pushing the ERG hoses out of the way, then add the extension, and then the socket. As you turn the ratchet, you'll scrape your arms all to hell on the sharp screws/retainers poking down through the cowl. This makes it fun!
Once the socket is loosened, you'll have to pull the ratchet out, then the extender, and then use both hands to pull the socket and sensor up and out.4) Next, using both hands, get the threads started on the new sensor. Once in place, add the socket, extender, ratchet, and then tighten. As an added bonus, you'll tear your arms up more here. Once tight, use a torque wrench to tighten to 20 N*m. (I recommend using the torque wrench as breaking something or stripping threads in this position would be a real bitch...)
5) Remove the wrench, extender, and socket. Then, using the inspection mirror, find out how the new senor is oriented and snap the plug back in.
I also had the good fortune to own a mechanic's boroscope, which is a wonderful thing to have in situations like this. I was able to use it to confirm the socket was in the correct position and use its periscope attachment to check and make sure the washers were properly seated against the block. (As long as you pay attention to the turns coming out and the turns going in on the new sensor, you should be pretty sure of things just by going on feel alone.)
04-12-2012, 10:44 AM
#5
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The intake manifold does NOT need to come off..I've replaced it many times using a sending unit socket, swivel, and a few extensions. Works every time. My main recommendation is to replace it with an OEM GM sensor. I've narrowed down an odd psi fluctuation to a knockoff sensor that has been replaced twice.GM sensors are the most accurate
04-18-2012, 12:00 AM
#6
The intake manifold does NOT need to come off..I've replaced it many times using a sending unit socket, swivel, and a few extensions. Works every time. My main recommendation is to replace it with an OEM GM sensor. I've narrowed down an odd psi fluctuation to a knockoff sensor that has been replaced twice.GM sensors are the most accurate
04-18-2012, 12:05 AM
#7
My new sensor isn't working so great... I got an Autozone sensor by Wells. (Wells sensors have been really good to me in the past.)
Next step is an oil and filter change to see what happens. If it acts up still, I guess I'll try another one. (The Autozone comes with a lifetime warranty.) What a PITA. Its just a one wire sensor. How complicated could it be?
Next step is an oil and filter change to see what happens. If it acts up still, I guess I'll try another one. (The Autozone comes with a lifetime warranty.) What a PITA. Its just a one wire sensor. How complicated could it be?
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04-18-2012, 08:06 PM
#10
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I dont have small hands by any means, And with one extension and the special socket I have no problem removing mine without removing the intake in just a couple minutes.
09-28-2014, 03:30 PM
#13
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^^^I think the Delphi unit (which may be what is in the GM labelled package anyway) is still available.
At least it was last year when I replaced my factory installed stocker with it.
At least it was last year when I replaced my factory installed stocker with it.
02-24-2015, 05:34 PM
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03-03-2015, 12:05 AM
#15
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use the parts list in general maintenance. Then cross reference the number. Or go to rockauto and use their list to get a part number. Then copy the number and paste it into ebay. Just got a ac delco unit for my 98 for like $26.90 shipped. I will say for some reason the ac delco unit was listed under automatic transmission on rockauto for some reason. Just doublecheck the numbers. Anyways, sometimes you gotta be creative to find the cheapest prices for stuff or to find the stuff at all. lol
03-03-2015, 11:42 AM
#16
OK - Got it done. If anyone runs in to the same issue, here's how I was able to pull it off.
The tools:
1) Remove the throttle cable bracket on top of the intake manifold with the 10mm deep socket.
2) Use the light, inspection mirror, and hook to unplug the OPSU. The hook is just a coat hanger bent in to a hook measuring 4 3/4" from the tip of the hook to the bend. I was able to lay on top of the engine/air intake and use both hands to move the hook in position to grab the tang of the OPSU electrical connector. This took some patience to get it in the right place, but once I made the hook, it popped right off.
3) Use a ratchet, a 4 1/4" socket extender and an Oil Pressure Switch Socket to remove the sensor. (I used a Lisle Oil Pressure Switch Socket #13250 for 1 1/16 sensors and a custom 4 1/4" socket extension made up of a standard 3" extension, a 1/4"-3/8" adapter, and a 3/8"-1/4" adapter.) You'll have to use both hands to maneuver the socket in place first, pushing the ERG hoses out of the way, then add the extension, and then the socket. As you turn the ratchet, you'll scrape your arms all to hell on the sharp screws/retainers poking down through the cowl. This makes it fun! Once the socket is loosened, you'll have to pull the ratchet out, then the extender, and then use both hands to pull the socket and sensor up and out.
4) Next, using both hands, get the threads started on the new sensor. Once in place, add the socket, extender, ratchet, and then tighten. As an added bonus, you'll tear your arms up more here. Once tight, use a torque wrench to tighten to 20 N*m. (I recommend using the torque wrench as breaking something or stripping threads in this position would be a real bitch...)
5) Remove the wrench, extender, and socket. Then, using the inspection mirror, find out how the new senor is oriented and snap the plug back in.
I also had the good fortune to own a mechanic's boroscope, which is a wonderful thing to have in situations like this. I was able to use it to confirm the socket was in the correct position and use its periscope attachment to check and make sure the washers were properly seated against the block. (As long as you pay attention to the turns coming out and the turns going in on the new sensor, you should be pretty sure of things just by going on feel alone.)
The tools:
1) Remove the throttle cable bracket on top of the intake manifold with the 10mm deep socket.
2) Use the light, inspection mirror, and hook to unplug the OPSU. The hook is just a coat hanger bent in to a hook measuring 4 3/4" from the tip of the hook to the bend. I was able to lay on top of the engine/air intake and use both hands to move the hook in position to grab the tang of the OPSU electrical connector. This took some patience to get it in the right place, but once I made the hook, it popped right off.
3) Use a ratchet, a 4 1/4" socket extender and an Oil Pressure Switch Socket to remove the sensor. (I used a Lisle Oil Pressure Switch Socket #13250 for 1 1/16 sensors and a custom 4 1/4" socket extension made up of a standard 3" extension, a 1/4"-3/8" adapter, and a 3/8"-1/4" adapter.) You'll have to use both hands to maneuver the socket in place first, pushing the ERG hoses out of the way, then add the extension, and then the socket. As you turn the ratchet, you'll scrape your arms all to hell on the sharp screws/retainers poking down through the cowl. This makes it fun!
Once the socket is loosened, you'll have to pull the ratchet out, then the extender, and then use both hands to pull the socket and sensor up and out.4) Next, using both hands, get the threads started on the new sensor. Once in place, add the socket, extender, ratchet, and then tighten. As an added bonus, you'll tear your arms up more here. Once tight, use a torque wrench to tighten to 20 N*m. (I recommend using the torque wrench as breaking something or stripping threads in this position would be a real bitch...)
5) Remove the wrench, extender, and socket. Then, using the inspection mirror, find out how the new senor is oriented and snap the plug back in.
I also had the good fortune to own a mechanic's boroscope, which is a wonderful thing to have in situations like this. I was able to use it to confirm the socket was in the correct position and use its periscope attachment to check and make sure the washers were properly seated against the block. (As long as you pay attention to the turns coming out and the turns going in on the new sensor, you should be pretty sure of things just by going on feel alone.)
05-01-2017, 07:29 AM
#17
I just read over on corvette forum to get the sender with the brass fitting rather than the chrome looking one. Its supposed to last longer. Its located at oreilly's or advance auto.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=s4202
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=s4202
