nissan owner

iTrader: (1)

So I am having this constant problem with my belts squeaking. I've changed all the idler pulleys, new belts, I even changed the main drive belt tensioner and its still there (I haven't done anything with the alternator). But as I was doing all that work I noticed my crank pulley was a little wobbly and off. Either my eyes are deceiving me, or something is wrong. So I posted up a video to see if you guys can tell.

Let me know your thoughts. Thank you in advance.



**If this isn't the best angle let me know I can try and get another one up.**

BlackBetty99SS

iTrader: (1)

Mine is behaving the same way. It looks like pieces of rubber are missing from mine too. I've replaced all idler pulley and tensioner pulley, replaced belts twice, changed alt. I just put some rtv black on the inside of belt between alt and ps pulley, then start car and it goes away for a wk or more depending on how much water I drive thru LOL. I'm basically putting off the prob. I have 182xxx, what are u sitting at.

nissan owner

iTrader: (1)

My car has 69k on it. I put some belt dressing on the grove part of the belt and the squeak went away, but I am concern about this crank pulley.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

From the video it looks like you are missing some of the rubber that blackbetty was/is talking about. From my understanding (I COULD BE WRONG), the crankshaft pulley is actually two pieces and when they wear out/get old they can start to move/skip and become misaligned causing it to squeek and chirp? not sure where i got this idea from but i seem to remember reading some thing like that when i rebuilt my car. Hopefully some of the more experienced guys will chime in here.

nissan owner

iTrader: (1)

Interesting...

Thanks for the feedback.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

Ok i did some quick research and the stock balancer is a two piece bonded balancer. It can separate and ruin an engine. Google, LS1 crank pulley balancer separated, there is a lot of threads that talk about it. It seems to be more of an issue on the corvetteforum, but considering we have the exact same motor im sure it goes for our cars aswell. Seems the GM balancers are a know POS, even the LS3 and LS7 are having issues with them.

nissan owner

iTrader: (1)

Wow this is not good. I am going to stop driving it.

Edit: Thanks again.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

No problem!, i would hate to hear that some thing terrible happened to your motor, especially if it could have been avoided. Im probably gonna order an aftermarket pulley after reading some of the stuff i read about our balancers, kinda scary

BlackBetty99SS

iTrader: (1)

That makes a lot of sence when you look at it as two pieces. Im going to go ahead and move that to the top of my rebuild list. Thanks for looking that up

dailydriver

Mine does not chirp or squeak due to a worn out/wobbling balancer/damper (ASP UD), but it DOES make a whine which follows the engine RPMS.

As soon as I get a break in the weather, I am installing the full, stock size Fluidampr I already have, along with new Gatorback belts, new idler/tensioner pullies, and an ARP crank bolt.

Khaalathas

crank pulley balancer very common issue on LS1

Fluidampr-Tech

Hello,

Ivan from Fluidampr here. We are now a supporting vendor for LS1 Tech and I came across this thread and decided to jump in.

The research presented is accurate. Almost all OEM dampers use a bonded rubber which will deteriorate over time due to numerous causes. One cause many are not aware of is performance part upgrades.

An elastomeric (bonded rubber) damper is actually a tuned absorber. It is tuned for a particular engine the way it was designed at the factory. Torsional vibrations (harmonics) will be worse at a certain RPM's and this is where OEM engineers will tune the rubber damper. When performance upgrades are made you may shift where these harmonics occur and it will overwork the rubber damper as it tries to do its job causing premature failure. The only reason OEM's use these bonded rubber dampers is due to cost.

Fluidampr incorporates a viscous design, which our parent company Vibratech TVD invented in 1946. This design is able to combat harmonics across the entire RPM range vs. a predetermined narrow bandwidth (as with rubber) regardless of performance upgrades.

Did I mention Fluidampr is also 100% made in the USA.

Please feel free to ask any questions regarding torsional vibrations or harmonic dampers (balancers).

You may also email me direct at ivan.snyder@fluidampr.com

Thank you.

Ivan @ Fluidampr

RJDio

I never let a crisis to go to waste. My balancer flange was chipped and pieces broken off - obviously a rock bounced up or it hit something and damaged it. I replaced with a 25% BBK underdrive pulley, new GM bolt and smaller belts: Autozone 370k4 and 760k6 (37" and 76").

Just a FYI, I have the A4. I'm not a mechanic, so Pulley was a bear to take off and put new on, had a mechanic friend show me how and we did it, but no way I could have done it myself without proper tools, lift, puller, and air hammer to get it started back on. All in all a good mod tho, happy with it. Good luck

dailydriver

Ivan;

I am installing one of your OEM/stock size (NOT underdrive) dampers on my LS1.

Will it actually make the engine idle/run smoother (like some have told me it will), regardless of how well the rotating assembly was internally balanced from the factory (especially since my ASP is visably wobbling now)???

In other words will the difference be noticable, even by 'the seat of the pants'??