rggbly

iTrader: (22)

I have done a few hours of looking through old threads and tried some searching around on the net. Basically I have an intermittent problem where my car will randomly not start (everything primes and works, but the starter will not engage). Sometimes it takes 10 tries, sometimes it won't start for days then all of a sudden it cranks right up like nothing was wrong. I looked at the actual wires running to the starter to make sure my long tubes haven't damaged them but they look fine and are wrapped. I purchased a brand new key and mic'd the pellets on it and the old one. There was a difference of about 3 tenths of an inch between the thickness of the pellets of the two keys (the old one being less thick from being used i suppose). I also tested the ohms on both key pellets and they were the same. I live 2 1/2 hours away from my tools and car trailer so I need to ensure it doesn't leave me stranded again. For those with more knowledge than I, does the resistor mod on the VATS system under the dash sound like what needs to happen? I understand it could be about 30 different things from what I've read but it seems the VATS system messes up a good bit on GM vehicles. Any and all knowledgable advice welcome. Thanks in advance fellas

rggbly

iTrader: (22)

*UPDATE*
I made the "resistor pack" to wire in under the dash but wanted to test it first before cutting the wires. I disconnected the connector under the dash (which i was going to use to put that resistor pack in) but for ***** and giggles decided to try to start the car. It started with the VATS disconnected so now I'm really thrown for a loop. I used an ohmmeter to test the wires running up to the lock cylinder with the key in hoping to get 1130 ohms but got nothing but OL. So I am totally lost right now. I'm posting a pic of the wires that I'm working with. Anyone have any suggestions?



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rggbly

iTrader: (22)

anyone?

rggbly

iTrader: (22)

*UPDATE*
tested continuity from the prongs that read the key pellet down to the connector under the dash. Got a reading from one and nothing from the other which tells me one wire has freyed and broken and no longer has a connection. I understand this is the exact reason why we do the resistor mod...but sense this is the problem, why is my car still starting sometimes? Given that it is not reading the key it should not start ever.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

I hope someone can give you some insight but I wouldn't count on it, f-body forums seem to be pretty crappy with tech advice

I have a similar issue but much more intermittent, my car wouldn't start on 1 occasion.. It took 40-60 cranks until it finally fired up (sore fingers ouch). That happened about 3 months ago and it hasn't done it since, 2 weeks ago however my security light came on while driving home for 5 minutes and shut off.

I spec'd out the resistance I needed, checked my keys (were in spec and clean), and made a resistor pack like you. I keep it in my glovebox waiting for the car to do it again so I can see if the resistors will do the trick

Good luck!

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

you need to do some reading on shbox.

IN short, buy a box from ebay that goes into the blue wire on the PCM, ground out the Theft Deterrent Relay......etc