xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

I have a 1997 Firebird 3.8L v6 with a failing fuel pump.

It primes at 18psi and runs at 22psi. I'm doing the trap door method. Here's a picture I found online after he cut the hole.



Do I need to replace the fuel pump assembly or can I just replace the fuel pump?

Any recommendations on a brand too?

Thanks

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

My understanding is you can do either. I would think just replacing the pump is more work but not impossable many how to's on here and online tube videos. I am replacing my fuel pump i have the trap door open but now i am just deciding on how to go about the replacement which answers your question, basicly i am not sure if i go with all the assembly (new pump included) or soley replace the fuel pump. I've read good things about the Walbro fuel pump.

myk

iTrader: (4)

I would replace the entire assembly and just be done with it. Even with the trap door, why would you want to have to go back in there if you realize the sending unit or other wiring becomes defective...

billscamaros

iTrader: (1)

How did you determine where to cut the hole? Did you have some dimensions relative to a reference point on the interior? What did you cut the hole with?

From this point, you'll just unconnect the four lines and the electrical lead, pull the pump assembly and replace it?

I need to do this to my car, but I'm a little nervous about cutting close to the tank.

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

The safest way is to use a nibbler. You can get electric or air powered. No sparkes or flames. Just drill a hole (carefully) at each corner.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

I'm going to be following this guide, http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html

I found an entire fuel pump assembly unit on RockAuto.com for a steal, $92 bucks! It was on wholesale closeout, it usually costs $223. As far as I know, I think the v6 and v8 pumps are the same as long as they are stock engines, higher HP car needs more fuel. Don't quote me on that though.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...723&cc=1252044






I hope to get the assembly by Friday and install it Saturday morning.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Racetronix set up. Better and cheaper than any factory or other OEM replacement.

.

aerojt

iTrader: (4)

I went Racetronix for my LS1, not sure if they offer one for the V6. Trap door method is pretty simple and easier than dropping the entire thing.

The entire process isn't crazy hard, just take your time and don't cut your hand on anything sharp... Good luck!

billscamaros

iTrader: (1)

Based on what I see by following the link posted above, it looks like the pump is located roughly in the middle of the tank ..... they cut the hole centered between the wheel wells. Is that right?

SMKE EM

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't hack up the car...when you cut that "trap door" you weaken the strength in the rear, and will allow gas vapors to enter the cabin.

I would just drop the exhaust, rear end, and tank and do it the right way. I had to do it 3 times on 3 different cars, but at least I know it was done right and didn't risk starting the car on fire or subjecting the driver/future owners of the car to gasoline vapors.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

1993-1997 and 1998-2002 are different.

See here, https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...where-cut.html

I didn't seal the trap door yet (besides a plastic bag over it) because my Dad needs to get a piece of metal from work. I drove it today with the windows up and didn't smell anything.

SMKE EM

iTrader: (2)

I meant if the top doesn't seal properly over time, plus the breather is right in the area on the driver side. I am actually surprised if you get no odors, but eventually you may if you don't seal that, then I also hope you never smoke lol.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

That thin-*** sheet metal is NOT a structural component of the car. Cutting it weakens NOTHING. It's also damned easy to seal back up. No fumes have EVER entered my cabin. All cutting an access does is fix an oversight that GM made in production. It should have been there from the get-go.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

I finished my install last Friday. I bought the whole fuel assembly "Delphi" brand. The fuel pump assembly looks the same as the original and the only problem i had was installing the pump in the gas tank. In the picture below


...you can see how the pump is not straight vertically, this gave me big problems because i finally figured i'd just risk breaking the pump by pushing it in the tank and it finally all went in. What i should of done before hand was to straighten the pump out than drop it in, but i was so frustrated moving the pump and adjusting it that i finally just pushed the pump in. I will upload some pictures in a few days. I still havn't sealed up the hole but i have no fuel smell.

One thing about the Delphi brand is that the gasket that came with the pump is smaller than original and fits a bit lose , but i still used it rather than using the old original. Another thing i noticed is that this pump rocks. My car moves quicker now with little push on the gas pedal which i think tells me that my old pump was not delivering the fuel that the car should be getting for some time now.

Another thing is that after you install the pump, make sure you prime the pump first than start the car. And i found out that only after the second start is when your fuel gauge will read the gas level, least thats what happened to my car. I think the trap door mode is the best way to go to change a fuel pump on our cars.


*I forgot to mention i saved $100 dollars by ordering the pump online from amazon. But beware! When i got the fuel pump it was in an over sized box with no popcorn stuffing or anything. The fuel pump was in the box lose and probably got banged up from the delivery guy throwing the box around. But on the bright side the pump works flawless. I am just stunned to find out that Delphi would horrably package their fuel pumps like that.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

The assembly should have like a bracket on it so you can straighten it out. It took me like 5 minutes to get the pump in. It kept getting stuck and wouldn't go all the way in.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

I saw the braket and didn't even bother to check to see if it was adjustable. My pump keep hitting towards the back finally i just forced it in and pushed down and all is good. If i had to do it again i could get it in place much quicker.

Did you notice any performance difference after you installed the new pump? For me the car is much more responsive when i step on the gas pedal.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

The throttle response is way better, I can get the tires to squeak again

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

I think am getting worse gas mileage but throttle response is great too. I just have to solder the connections went with butt connectors and my gas guage goes off and on.

xBrandonx

iTrader: (11)

I think my gas mileage is about the same, I was expecting better MPG oh well

billscamaros

iTrader: (1)

Motivated by this thread, I replel pump this weekend. "99 Z28 M6 w/263K miles on the original pump. The pump in my car is located approx 15 inches behind the edge of the sheetmetal where the rear seat rests, and approx midway between the rear wheel wells. Mine had a retainer ring vice screws. I also had to replace one of the original connectors with a new pigtail supplied with the new pump. All in all, it was pretty straightforward. Two days ago ... no booms yet! A couple of pictures:

Original pump


New pump