professional induction cleaning worth doing??
05-11-2013, 05:46 AM
#1
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professional induction cleaning worth doing?? 99 Z28, 116K miles. Bought the car with the check engine light on due to the pcv boot torn, causing a vacuum leak. further investigation revealed a totally gummy and oiled up pcv valve. since then ive done the PCV valve mod, using the newer fixed orifice GM recommended one, and i bought a cheapy catch can off ebay, which works pretty good for $15, better than no catch can. im still getting a little oil inside the pcv valve when i pull it apart every few hundred miles and to empty the catch can, which is mostly just filled with water, some oil, but the can has no baffling or anything for the oil to stick too but hey, at least the pcv system is working again.
question is, a lot of shops offer that heavy duty induction cleaning service for $99..now is that worth me doing? i do not have the capability of pulling the intake off, pulling out the injectors etc and doing it all myself, soo just wondering if anyone thinks its a good idea to even bother paying that kinda money. i get about 12-14 mpg around town here, and maybe 20 hiway. (six speed too) only reason i ask.
plus the motor sounds not that great, but not that bad either. but it runs really good and has good power with NO dash lights ever, but i guess all LS1's are supposed to sound like a diesel........its noisy and the motor shakes a bit at idle and makes a racket (valvetrain) anywhere above 1800 rpm.
question is, a lot of shops offer that heavy duty induction cleaning service for $99..now is that worth me doing? i do not have the capability of pulling the intake off, pulling out the injectors etc and doing it all myself, soo just wondering if anyone thinks its a good idea to even bother paying that kinda money. i get about 12-14 mpg around town here, and maybe 20 hiway. (six speed too) only reason i ask.
plus the motor sounds not that great, but not that bad either. but it runs really good and has good power with NO dash lights ever, but i guess all LS1's are supposed to sound like a diesel........its noisy and the motor shakes a bit at idle and makes a racket (valvetrain) anywhere above 1800 rpm.
Last edited by DaytonaBlues; 05-11-2013 at 06:35 AM.
05-11-2013, 07:19 AM
#2
A company probably wont be taking the intake off for 99 bucks either. I would recommend getting some seafoam and running half a can through the gas tank and the other half through the brake booster as instructed per the writeup. The intake it also pretty easy to just pull off and clean. Just soak the inside with degreaser and hose it out a few times then let it dry.
As for fuel economy you may get better results by doing a complete tune up, plugs wqires, fuel filter, O2's, and maf cleaning. Just because the car runs fine doesnt mean it couldnt be better at 116k the 02's are def switching slow, the maf may be dirty and the plugs are due for a change
As for fuel economy you may get better results by doing a complete tune up, plugs wqires, fuel filter, O2's, and maf cleaning. Just because the car runs fine doesnt mean it couldnt be better at 116k the 02's are def switching slow, the maf may be dirty and the plugs are due for a change
05-11-2013, 11:12 AM
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front o2 sensors are new, plugs and wires were done at 70K miles (TR5's), fuel filter done, Maf has been cleaned HOWEVER it was descreened by previous owner. ive checked a scan tool and the only readings that looked weird were my LTFT which are
negative %6 to %7. 02 sensors are switching fine up front,(.2-.8 volts) the rear o2 sensors are steady at .70 volts. im worried about my fuel trim readings though. im not sure really were the stft should be, i know LTFT doesnt matter that much.(at idle they are generally steady at 0-1.57)
as for seafoaming i have done it, poured some down the brake booster AND through the pcv nipple on the intake manifold. went pretty good, no mess, not a lot of smoke either. did it per the thread. anyways i guess pulling the intake is probably the only real way to get the thing clean though. the local shops here charge $100 to do the BG fuel injection induction service where they i guess hook up some type of cleaner into the throttle body and run directly off the port on the fuel rail. thats what i was thinking of getting done. but im trying to think of anything else i missed i can do to get this thing running a little better, like maybe new REAR 02 sensors?
negative %6 to %7. 02 sensors are switching fine up front,(.2-.8 volts) the rear o2 sensors are steady at .70 volts. im worried about my fuel trim readings though. im not sure really were the stft should be, i know LTFT doesnt matter that much.(at idle they are generally steady at 0-1.57)
as for seafoaming i have done it, poured some down the brake booster AND through the pcv nipple on the intake manifold. went pretty good, no mess, not a lot of smoke either. did it per the thread. anyways i guess pulling the intake is probably the only real way to get the thing clean though. the local shops here charge $100 to do the BG fuel injection induction service where they i guess hook up some type of cleaner into the throttle body and run directly off the port on the fuel rail. thats what i was thinking of getting done. but im trying to think of anything else i missed i can do to get this thing running a little better, like maybe new REAR 02 sensors?
05-11-2013, 12:45 PM
#5
99 Z28, 116K miles. Bought the car with the check engine light on due to the pcv boot torn, causing a vacuum leak. further investigation revealed a totally gummy and oiled up pcv valve. since then ive done the PCV valve mod, using the newer fixed orifice GM recommended one, and i bought a cheapy catch can off ebay, which works pretty good for $15, better than no catch can. im still getting a little oil inside the pcv valve when i pull it apart every few hundred miles and to empty the catch can, which is mostly just filled with water, some oil, but the can has no baffling or anything for the oil to stick too but hey, at least the pcv system is working again.
question is, a lot of shops offer that heavy duty induction cleaning service for $99..now is that worth me doing? i do not have the capability of pulling the intake off, pulling out the injectors etc and doing it all myself, soo just wondering if anyone thinks its a good idea to even bother paying that kinda money. i get about 12-14 mpg around town here, and maybe 20 hiway. (six speed too) only reason i ask.
plus the motor sounds not that great, but not that bad either. but it runs really good and has good power with NO dash lights ever, but i guess all LS1's are supposed to sound like a diesel........its noisy and the motor shakes a bit at idle and makes a racket (valvetrain) anywhere above 1800 rpm.
question is, a lot of shops offer that heavy duty induction cleaning service for $99..now is that worth me doing? i do not have the capability of pulling the intake off, pulling out the injectors etc and doing it all myself, soo just wondering if anyone thinks its a good idea to even bother paying that kinda money. i get about 12-14 mpg around town here, and maybe 20 hiway. (six speed too) only reason i ask.
plus the motor sounds not that great, but not that bad either. but it runs really good and has good power with NO dash lights ever, but i guess all LS1's are supposed to sound like a diesel........its noisy and the motor shakes a bit at idle and makes a racket (valvetrain) anywhere above 1800 rpm.
GET SOME MCCC or GM INDUCTION cleaner or any brand that is a........FOAM. Liquids cannot clean the damn top end.
Yamaha Outbaord motor top end cleaner is badass too......
Spray the entire can into the FORWARD PCV vacuum port with the engine idling. Have a friend shut the engine off BEFORE the can runs dry. Let sit 2-4 hours. Start it and let it IDLE ONLY for 15 minutes. Then go for a 15-20 minute very casual drive...NO HARD ACCELERATION YET. Then gradually accelerate it making sure the engine is running perfectly smooth each time you make those gradually accelerations up to about 60-80mph. When its totally smooth...go WOT.
Then, to clean the entire fuel system from gas tank to valves.......pour a FULL can of SeaFoam into 1/8th tank of gas and run that as close to empty as you can. That's it....there's nothing else you can do to clean the fuel system.
If you dilute the SeaFoam any more than 1/8th tank of gas you will waste your time, it won't do anything.
And have the O2 sensors checked with a scanner while the engine is running, see if they are working properly.
.
05-11-2013, 05:31 PM
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Thank you so much for that. I knew the seafoam was a waste in the booster. I'm gonna try that mccc stuff. There isnt so much a diesel sound as much as the there is a valve train sound to the engine. I got s scan tool and the only O2sensor t hst reads weird is the bank 2 rear sensor. Its st only .10 - .30 volts while the other rear 02 sensor reads a pretty steady .74 volts. **** lol
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05-11-2013, 11:37 PM
#8
Thank you so much for that. I knew the seafoam was a waste in the booster. I'm gonna try that mccc stuff. There isnt so much a diesel sound as much as the there is a valve train sound to the engine. I got s scan tool and the only O2sensor t hst reads weird is the bank 2 rear sensor. Its st only .10 - .30 volts while the other rear 02 sensor reads a pretty steady .74 volts. **** lol
Www.rockauto.com
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05-12-2013, 10:16 AM
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I bought two brand new Bosch Sensors already for the front and jnstalled them. I .was gonnabuy the d
Densos but hell..60 bucks for 2 Bosch s cant beat that.
You know of a good way to clean fuel injectors? Its kinda why ive been bent on getting someone to professionally clean them, sinCe I cannot pull the intake myselI just want to know what ive overlooked checking to help my fuel economy and the idle quality
Densos but hell..60 bucks for 2 Bosch s cant beat that.
You know of a good way to clean fuel injectors? Its kinda why ive been bent on getting someone to professionally clean them, sinCe I cannot pull the intake myselI just want to know what ive overlooked checking to help my fuel economy and the idle quality
05-12-2013, 02:03 PM
#11
This is true. For bolt on engine buy an $11 husky air filter from home depot and put it after the pcv and before the intake. Then do the cleaning. That way it's clean and catches future oil.
05-12-2013, 04:28 PM
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Thats what I did except I bought a catch can off ebay for cheap. Its inline between the pcv snd intake. Problem is of course the catch can has no baffling. I was think of stuffing steel wool very coursestuff inside of it to help the oil grab onto something. But the design of the can doesn't allow me to pull the steel wool out once its inside. The can catches a lot of water and some oil. I had the husky one on there before I went with the ebay one. I'm just trying to figure out where to get that mccc stuff you guyd talk about. The engine runs good except for a slight chop and bumpy idle.
05-12-2013, 05:17 PM
#14
Thats what I did except I bought a catch can off ebay for cheap. Its inline between the pcv snd intake. Problem is of course the catch can has no baffling. I was think of stuffing steel wool very coursestuff inside of it to help the oil grab onto something. But the design of the can doesn't allow me to pull the steel wool out once its inside. The can catches a lot of water and some oil. I had the husky one on there before I went with the ebay one. I'm just trying to figure out where to get that mccc stuff you guyd talk about. The engine runs good except for a slight chop and bumpy idle.
Hey mighty mouse, if it works in high pressure situations, why would low pressure be an issue? Just curious, you seem to have decent knowledge on this stuff. I believe you, that is why I added the second one, which now catches the same amount of oil.
05-12-2013, 06:00 PM
#15
back in the early 2000's i ran the exact same coalescing filters, they give some quick results and the clear bottom makes it exciting, but in the end they just don't catch as much as a larger can that slows the air down more.
thats my experience anyways. but look at all the top of the line catch can companies, nobody uses that type of set up, it just doesn't work (as good) and is down right restrictive because we are not using it anywhere near the designed pressure for a given cfm.
thats my experience anyways. but look at all the top of the line catch can companies, nobody uses that type of set up, it just doesn't work (as good) and is down right restrictive because we are not using it anywhere near the designed pressure for a given cfm.
05-12-2013, 10:07 PM
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**** lol thanks I got two new Bosch sensors already in the car. Just out of curiousity, why are bosch 02 sensors so bad again?????????? And I DID sea foam the pcv inlet on the intake manifold already..as far as cleaning fuel injector I'm stumped on how to do myself.
05-13-2013, 06:05 AM
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So you brought Bosch s and put them in and then switched to Denso sensors?. My Bosch sensors were actually more money from rockauto.com vs the Denso units. How did you know the new Bosch sensors were bad?
Last edited by DaytonaBlues; 05-13-2013 at 06:36 AM.
