ENASNI TILLER

Just picked up a 98 WS6 last weekend. The only issue is that when you put the ignition key in you have to turn the cylinder back (with force) and then fiddle with the key to get it to turn to start the car. Then when you turn it off you have to turn the cylinder back by force to remove the key. Anyone else experience this? I really don't know were to start. I would remove the cylinder and check there if I knew how hehe.

Any advice would be appreciated.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a worn out key. Good thing its not your only one, right?

ENASNI TILLER

I only got one set of keys for the car when I bought it. I can have the dealer cut a new key from the VIN. Maybe try that before I tear into the column.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

The lock cylinder has a metal tab that sticks out when the key is not in the ignition. If the cylinder is worn then the tab will not fully drop. If you are careful you can grind a bit off of it and still have it only turn with the key in it. If you pull it apart though to just replace the cylinder isn't very expensive.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yea, this is a common thing. Former owners get used to the quirk and sell it before the key wears down to the point where it bites them in the rear.

Depending on how bad the wear is, the dealer might be able to read/guess the codes off your old key vs. go through the expense of a VIN lookup. (I think some dealers charge $50 for that service.)

I also recommend insisting that the dealer punch the new key instead of grind a new one. Often times, the counter guys don't like to dig out the puncher - but you'll get a much more accurate key. If they won't punch, you should be able to find a more accommodating dealer down the street.

If the VIN lookup is expensive and they are unsure about reading the old key, you might have them punch a cheap, non-chip key so you can test the code. That way, you can experiment to make sure the key code fits the lock without making the final investment in a resistor key. (They overcharge for that too!)

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

I worked at a few GM dealers as a tech and I have never heard of a parts department charging for checking the key for which resistor blank you need. The tool to check can be operated by a 5 year old you stick the key and it tells you which number blank you need. The other route is to measure resistance on the key manually with an ohmmeter and then use a chart to compare which blank you have. If you have no security light staying on your key resistor is fine and the white wires attached at the the lock cylinder are fine.

If you have security light on solid with the car running you just need to wire in the appropriate resistor on the connector and eliminate VATS altogether. My local GM dealer does not even charge you to cut keys as long as you buy the blank from them. Resistor ignition keys I believe should only be 30 dollars total.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The charge is to look up the key code by the VIN from GM's database.


This isn't always accurate on a badly worn key.


So, they rape us for $30 and then give us a free happy ending?

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

$30 is cheap for an ignition key on a modern car.....

Many of the newer cars are 100 - 300 dollars.

ENASNI TILLER

I will gladly pay $30 to have a smooth ignition switch hehe. I should have time next week to get the new key cut and chime back in after to update this thread.

I came to this forum from nastyz28.com (had a 71 Camaro) and you guys are far more helpful then them.

Thanks for the replies!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I didn't know I had a modern car. I guess its all relative. I had a drunk guy oogle my car the other week and he told me he was personally "in to imports." You wouldn't believe the look I got back when I told him my car was an "import" because it was made in Canada.

ENASNI TILLER

I've found quite a few Mexican parts on mine hehe

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

I think our cars are as far from turbo awd as they came.