huckapatooey

On my way home from work last week, the car was running great until I went to drive away from a stop light (luckily it was right down the street from my house) and as soon as it would hit 2500 RPM, it fell on it's face. I was able to limp it to the garage, and it hasn't started since. It was throwing P0102 (MAF) so I replaced that. I also replaced the fuel pump. The code is cleared, but the car still isn't running. I thought maybe a vacuum leak? but don't hear any hissing. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Here is a video of what it sounds like when I try to start it.

ZEEYAL8R

i was going to say fuel pump but you said you replaced it. your video is private, cant see it

huckapatooey

Whoops, switched it to public. That was the first thing I thought of myself.

ZEEYAL8R

idk man, thats really weird, recheck the fuel pump and fuel pump regulator? Double check that all your wires are firmly connected.....can you hear the pump working? do you hear it prime when you turn the key to the final click before it begins to turn over?

ZEEYAL8R

wouldnt happen to have a security light staying on in the dash, do you?

huckapatooey

ya, It's priming when I turn the key, and like I said, I just replaced the pump.

ZEEYAL8R

well she needs air fuel and spark to run, sounds like you have at least some of all 3 when it fires......why it quits makes me wonder if it could be a VATS issue, or...did you replace the fuel filter when you did the pump???

huckapatooey

And no, security light goes out.

chaman

iTrader: (5)

In line fuel filter clogged up? I would check that. It dont matter if the fuel is new wont run if the filter is damaged blocking the fuel flow and pressure.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Please tell me you at least checked the fuel pressure before replacing the pump? You need to do basic checks: Are you getting spark? What is the fuel pressure? Those are very simple to check and will point you in the right direction.....

I'm sorry, but I see so many posts here where guys replace parts without doing any testing and I guess I don't get it. You would be better off paying $80 diagnosis fee from a shop and at least you won't be guessing....

Please, check your fuel pressure, and check your spark. If you have those, check your injector pulse.

huckapatooey

Got it running again. It was both the fuel pump and filter. Yes I checked the pressure and hooked it up to read the codes. Thanks for all the help/info.

dailydriver

True, but in some cases (like mine), I have NO CHOICE but to "throw parts" at it, since they can be shipped to where the car is stuck (home), and are things which will eventually wear out and have to be replaced anyway.
Most of the shops (BOTH stealerships AND private/tuners/etc.) around here charge >$150.00/hour for diagnostic work, and will take their sweet old time to ensure that they do NOT 'find' the problem too quickly, thereby running up the charges BEFORE even starting the repair, which they will also waaay overcharge you for.
I DO NOT need for them to charge me these crazy rates just to tell me what I already know, as I have a basic scanner in the Predator tuner, and a Kiwi wifi OBD2 plug in, and they do not want to listen to me if I tell them what it is NOT (no codes, all that I've already checked/replaced).

I have AAA, but they now limit you to 5 tows TOTAL a year, so I am reluctant to even have it towed into one of said diagnostic rip-off shops, since they will then NOT tow it back home for me if I don't like what (or just CANNOT pay what) the shop is charging, or if it is something I can do myself.

Is it MY fault I do not own a digital voltmeter and a fuel pressure gauge? YES, but I never got around to buying those tools, and right now I need that coin to get this thing running.

That's what I thought this part of this forum was for (diagnostic help from fellow f body owners/techs), but sadly for me, few if anyone answers my posts.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

To be honest if you plan to keep the car for a long time throwing parts at it is a good source of preventative maintenance. It also gives you a good collection of backup parts in case you ever need them again. I've had my z28 for over 9 years, if you care about the car why not do your own due diligence to keep it running great

I was going to suggest failing crank sensor but I'm glad you figured it out

dailydriver

The main point of that post AGREES with what you've posted above.

Sadly, it was not the crank position sensor (or any of the other "thrown" parts), as it will STILL either not start, or stay 'lit' for more than 15 seconds IF it does actually start.

BTW; unlike the vast majority on here, I not only bought this thing new in 2000, but I actually ORDERED IT in the EXACT way I wanted it, and WANT to keep it for another 250K miles since there is VERY LITTLE out there in the way of new cars I would want (ALL WAAAY TOO HEAVY), or could ever afford (like a C7 Z06, if it's ever released).

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Well after fuel pump I would check the ignition relay in the fuse box under the hood. Swap it out with the fan relay and see if that helps. Also make sure to check your battery for corrosion around the ground and the ground from the battery to the chassis.

Hope that helps