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iTrader: (1)

as a result of removing the tensioner pulleys to do some other work i now have a metal 'ish noise while idling. i'm pretty sure it's the AC tensioner pulley, I removed it and turned it around and the noise went away for a little bit but now it's back, especially when the car is hot.
anybody have any experience with these?
I'm tempted to mail order two new pulleys for $20 but will be pissed if that doesn't fix it.
the current pulleys seem perfectly fine, they are sealed bearings. I almost want to say the bent washer thing between the bolt and the pulley is the problem, like it's rubbing on the pulley when it rotates making the noise. not sure what else to try at this point.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I'd spend $5-10 on a mechanic's stethoscope first and confirm 100% that its the pulley. How many miles are on it?

Have you seen the thread about how to re-grease the pulleys? They aren't sealed that well and they can be disassembled.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

I remember hearing about it but never looked into it, by
are you referring to re-greasing this pulley ?


i have a stethoscope but didn't have much luck with it,
but for the noise i get at idle if i put a wrench on the ac tensioner pulley and release it a little the noise goes away. if i do it on the main tensioner up top noise still there.

so for re-greasing, am i suppose to knock the bearing out of the plastic pulley ?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yes -> https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...r-pulleys.html


If the bearings were squealing, the stethoscope would show it like night and day.


I'd take the AC belt off first and run the car to 100% confirm that its on that belt train. (Just because its easy and free.)

Changing the tension of the belt could allow pulley bearings to behave differently, but maybe its the bearings on your compressor?

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

Take the pulley back off and check the little metal dust shields behind them. If you put those on backwards, they rub.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

Also, I personally would not bother trying to disassemble the bearing and re-grease it. You can damage the seals and allow dirt and moisture in there, which would do even more damage. The replacement pulley/bearing assemblies are only $17 for the A/C idler and about $50 for the accessory idler at <non-sponsor deleted>. If you are sure it is the A/C idler, and can trace it to that, just replace it. You may be able to just change the bearing. <non-sponsor deleted> lists the bearing in the pulley as having a 17mm bore and being 12mm wide. If you can verify that the OD is 40mm, then the bearing I have linked for you will work and is $13. <non-sponsor link deleted>

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If the pulley is already shot and is going to be thrown away, what's the harm in re-greasing and risking the integrity of the seal?

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iTrader: (1)

that pulley i posted a pic of is $13 at <non-sponsor deleted>.

talk to me about these dust shields behind the pulley, can anyone post a pic?
when i pulled them i don't remember seeing anything behind the pulley on the tensioner. only thing i had was the metal washer that goes on the front of the pulley between it and the bolt holding it on. it sounds like that washer is loose and rattling around causing the noise, but it's not loose.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The dust shield fits on the shaft like a large cupped washer. If it was rusted to the bracket, you may not even notice it when you take the pulley off.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

BTW - The pic you posted is not an AC pulley. I recall the A/C pulley I last changed out was smooth.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

Only because the price of a pulley/bearing assembly vs just a new pulley and putting it on the old bearing aren't that much different. I would get the pulley with the new bearing and not have to touch it for years to come. Different strokes for different folks. I work for a bearing company and see so many people try to mess with sealed bearings and end up doing more harm than good and end up spending the money anyway. Just trying to save him some money and down time.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

That's a good point, particularly in saving time down the road. I can't imagine a re-greased pulley would last that long before it needs more attention.

Personally, I aspire to own a press so I can replace just the bearing in these kinds of parts.


There have been a number of threads where people debate on which type of wheel bearing assembly to buy and which manufacturer is "better." Do you have an opinion on that one?

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, when someone regreases a sealed bearing they tend to use too much grease. This causes a lot of heat and fails the bearing early. A press is the way to go, but if you don't have access to one, you can drive the old bearing out and new one in with a socket that fits flush against the outer race. I bought a cheap press for about $150 just for stuff like this and axle bearings on my 9". It is handy. As far as wheel bearing assemblies go, we make them but not for most American cars. Mostly Europeans. I don't like to recommend competitors for obvious reasons, but Timken wheel bearings are the way to go. They really dominate that market. I put the cheap no name ones in my truck and had to change them 2 years later.

Schnell

I regreased mine a few times and it held up fairly well. Eventually they started wearing on an angle and I replaced my pulley's with metal ones grom AA.
I feel that this then lead to premature water pump leaking. I feel that the angle and tension of the perfect metal pulleys caused the water pump front seal to start a small leak. Next I changed out my water pump.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

finally put the time into looking into the tensioner pulleys. i stand corrected, i did not realize how easy it is to pop the little orange/brown cover with a small flat blade. the inside of my ac tension pulley which was noisy was because it was completely dry. only the soap of the grease was left inside and it was all hard, no oil at all. I cleaned both tensioner pulleys and put some lucas red tacky grease in each, will see later this week how they do.

i also have both dust shields or washers, which go on the front outside of the pulley between it and the bolt. i thought someone meant there was something on the backside of the pulley between it and the tensioner but there isn't.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There are some on the backside of the main belt pulleys, but the AC idlers may not have them.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

I've regreased my pulleys several times, using high temp wheel bearing grease, after a thorough cleaning and drying. Lasts for awhile. I've also bought the inexpensive replacements, but found that they don't last very long.

I've got one squeeking now, and will clean/regrease for the winter.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

Regreasing is fine if you use the right type of grease and just as importantly, the right amount. Some people pack them completely full and don't allow space for expansion. This could create a lot of heat, especially at the speeds that these small pulleys run when you consider the ratio of crank pulley diameter and speed to the diameter of the a/c pulley. Honestly, for the limited lifespan of a regreased bearing compared to that of a good quality new bearing, I will spend the $10-$15 and get a new one and not have to touch it for 6-10 years. My truck is a 2005 and still has the stock pulleys and bearings. Once they start to go, I will not waste my time and effort to try to save a $12 bearing and make it last an extra 1-2 years. Just my way of doing things.

BlackLS1Bird

iTrader: (2)

I hope the pictures attached correctly. If they did, you can see in the first 3 how the inner washer piece goes between the main idler and the alternator bracket. If you put this on backwards, it will rub and could possibly not allow the pulley to turn. Without it, you could possibly get a small amount of misalignment of the pulley and wear belts faster than normal. It would be minimal but it would be there. You can see from the fourth photo, that my a/c idler has one as well. Hope this help the guys that havent seen this before.

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iTrader: (1)

i don't have the inner washer, mines a 2002 and it looks like my brackets that the pulley goes on to are different. my bracket has a built in back plate washer thing.

after greasing the original pulleys, the ac tensioner pulley didn't have the dry sound but instead had some weird clicking noises when engine first started then was generally noisy for the rest of the week. replaced them both with new autozone pulleys and everything is good now.