air conditioner repair ... yes I have searched
08-18-2014, 09:53 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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air conditioner repair ... yes I have searched So my compressor went out . I know that when I remove it there shouldn't be a lot of moisture in the air . Every shop wants 1,000 to do it . What else do I need to ensure my air will last ?
Compressor ( obviously )
Orifice tube ?
Accumulator ?
I know I need freon r-134 a
After installing I need to to evacuate and fill
Am I missing anything else ?
Compressor ( obviously )
Orifice tube ?
Accumulator ?
I know I need freon r-134 a
After installing I need to to evacuate and fill
Am I missing anything else ?
08-19-2014, 06:29 AM
#3
you will spend over $500 just on tools to do the job mostly right. unfortunately a grand is what it is to do it right, make sure you get a written warranty on the repair and understand what's covered. otherwise you'll most likely screw it up and your new compressor will die within a year.
you said your compressor went out. how did it go out? why?
you said your compressor went out. how did it go out? why?
08-19-2014, 07:14 AM
#4
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Yeah man you know your stuff . Everyone wants 1,000 . My compressor seized up . A mechanic told me . Plus when I start the car it makes a high pitch squeal . Sounds like brakes squealing when a car comes to a stop .
Edit : I also saw mist coming out of my vents . So I have a leak . I would assume it's from my compressor .
Edit : I also saw mist coming out of my vents . So I have a leak . I would assume it's from my compressor .
Last edited by Camaraderie; 08-19-2014 at 07:15 AM. Reason: Forgot to add something
08-19-2014, 07:41 AM
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Mist out of your vents means you have cold air, not that you have a leak. It's called condensation. If you're still getting cold air, your compressor is not frozen and your squeal is because of something else going wrong, like possibly a bad idler pulley. If the compressor freezes up, you'll never have cold air.
Depending on the car, you may/may not have an orifice tube.
Yes, A/C repairs are expensive. So are any others. The knowledge/tooling to do it right is expensive, too. If you plan on doing more than one vehicle, the tooling may be worth the cost. For just one, probably not.
Depending on the car, you may/may not have an orifice tube.
Yes, A/C repairs are expensive. So are any others. The knowledge/tooling to do it right is expensive, too. If you plan on doing more than one vehicle, the tooling may be worth the cost. For just one, probably not.
08-19-2014, 08:12 AM
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Mist out of your vents means you have cold air, not that you have a leak. It's called condensation. If you're still getting cold air, your compressor is not frozen and your squeal is because of something else going wrong, like possibly a bad idler pulley. If the compressor freezes up, you'll never have cold air.
Depending on the car, you may/may not have an orifice tube.
Depending on the car, you may/may not have an orifice tube.
Yeah it stopped blowing cold . So I am sure my compressor is out . It is for my LS1 camaro 2002
08-19-2014, 08:54 AM
#7
To warranty out any parts you will need to replace it with a kit. Also, the warranty will have to show an evacuation and recharge. It is imperative that you vacuum the system. At least a 10 minute vacuum, preferably 20+ if you are going to be opening the system up to replace major components.
If your compressor went out, you undoubtedly have metal in the lines, orifice tube etc. The only time I have seen anything out the vents is when an evaporator has failed. Usually paired with the sweet smell of R-143A/Dye.
Do it right the first time, or chances are, it will fail in a short period of time.
If your compressor went out, you undoubtedly have metal in the lines, orifice tube etc. The only time I have seen anything out the vents is when an evaporator has failed. Usually paired with the sweet smell of R-143A/Dye.
Do it right the first time, or chances are, it will fail in a short period of time.
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08-20-2014, 06:10 PM
#10
I did my own LS6 swap and am a fairly competent "shade tree mechanic". That being said, when my compressor went out, I opted to pay the grand and have the pros do it. By the time I saw how much the parts were, and then paying to have the shop do what they needed to do with their equipment (vacuum and then re-charge), It really only came out to be like $250-$300 more to have the pros just do the whole thing.
08-20-2014, 06:31 PM
#11
Staging Lane
I have a/c issues as well, but I still can't bring myself to let someone else do it. I'd rather learn by doing it myself, even if it takes me a few tries.
08-20-2014, 07:01 PM
#12
i can understand where you're coming from if it's regarding handing over the car to a shop.
the end result needs to be no leaks, the internals of the entire ac system completely clean, then evacuated with a good vacuum pump to a deep vacuum which is measured in microns and holds, then you inject the correct amount of oil, then add refrigerant by weight. this is the part you can't do because the equipment is expensive.
the best you can do is the mechanical work yourself leaning over the fender and getting underneath to replace the compressor, hoses, orifice tube, condenser, and accumulator. you almost always should replace the accumulator. if you had compressor failure and found metal debris in the system then replace the condenser. the only thing you can flush are simple hoses and the evap core. if there is ~ 7+ years on the components consider replacing the two piece hoses that go from solid to flexible rubber, they deteriorate and develop leaks where the crimps are. also replace your high/low port service valves. whatever hoses you flush make sure you use a good ac solvent that does not leave residue. when you use new o-rings, use mineral oil spec'd for ac service on them, don't use the PAG oil that goes in the system. once you get everything installed then take it to a shop that has agreed to do the evac and charging after you've installed everything.
the system is supposed to have 9 oz total of PAG oil. for any compressor dump out all the oil that came with it or that was in it, and verify with the shop how the correct amount of oil will be added during the charging process. pag oil is like brake fluid in regards to moisture, you don't want the bottle uncapped or exposed to air/moisture for any length of time.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 08-20-2014 at 07:24 PM.
08-21-2014, 01:04 PM
#13
So my compressor went out . I know that when I remove it there shouldn't be a lot of moisture in the air . Every shop wants 1,000 to do it . What else do I need to ensure my air will last ?
Compressor ( obviously )
Orifice tube ?
Accumulator ?
I know I need freon r-134 a
After installing I need to to evacuate and fill
Am I missing anything else ?
Compressor ( obviously )
Orifice tube ?
Accumulator ?
I know I need freon r-134 a
After installing I need to to evacuate and fill
Am I missing anything else ?
The problem lies in how your compressor failed, ie piston failure which causes metal debris throughout the lines, evap, and condenser. This could lead to another comp failure is not cleaned or replaced.
08-22-2014, 07:39 PM
#14
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I just paid 1700 ish left it to a pro and believe me I like you man . This just isn't worth it . My compressor sent out shavings everywhere . The mechanic said it clogged my condenser and lines . In parts it cost 1300 and labor was the rest . If you don't get the metal shavings it grenades all the new parts you installed
08-23-2014, 01:50 AM
#15
Staging Lane
a few tries means a few compressors
i can understand where you're coming from if it's regarding handing over the car to a shop.
the end result needs to be no leaks, the internals of the entire ac system completely clean, then evacuated with a good vacuum pump to a deep vacuum which is measured in microns and holds, then you inject the correct amount of oil, then add refrigerant by weight. this is the part you can't do because the equipment is expensive.
the best you can do is the mechanical work yourself leaning over the fender and getting underneath to replace the compressor, hoses, orifice tube, condenser, and accumulator. you almost always should replace the accumulator. if you had compressor failure and found metal debris in the system then replace the condenser. the only thing you can flush are simple hoses and the evap core. if there is ~ 7+ years on the components consider replacing the two piece hoses that go from solid to flexible rubber, they deteriorate and develop leaks where the crimps are. also replace your high/low port service valves. whatever hoses you flush make sure you use a good ac solvent that does not leave residue. when you use new o-rings, use mineral oil spec'd for ac service on them, don't use the PAG oil that goes in the system. once you get everything installed then take it to a shop that has agreed to do the evac and charging after you've installed everything.
the system is supposed to have 9 oz total of PAG oil. for any compressor dump out all the oil that came with it or that was in it, and verify with the shop how the correct amount of oil will be added during the charging process. pag oil is like brake fluid in regards to moisture, you don't want the bottle uncapped or exposed to air/moisture for any length of time.
i can understand where you're coming from if it's regarding handing over the car to a shop.
the end result needs to be no leaks, the internals of the entire ac system completely clean, then evacuated with a good vacuum pump to a deep vacuum which is measured in microns and holds, then you inject the correct amount of oil, then add refrigerant by weight. this is the part you can't do because the equipment is expensive.
the best you can do is the mechanical work yourself leaning over the fender and getting underneath to replace the compressor, hoses, orifice tube, condenser, and accumulator. you almost always should replace the accumulator. if you had compressor failure and found metal debris in the system then replace the condenser. the only thing you can flush are simple hoses and the evap core. if there is ~ 7+ years on the components consider replacing the two piece hoses that go from solid to flexible rubber, they deteriorate and develop leaks where the crimps are. also replace your high/low port service valves. whatever hoses you flush make sure you use a good ac solvent that does not leave residue. when you use new o-rings, use mineral oil spec'd for ac service on them, don't use the PAG oil that goes in the system. once you get everything installed then take it to a shop that has agreed to do the evac and charging after you've installed everything.
the system is supposed to have 9 oz total of PAG oil. for any compressor dump out all the oil that came with it or that was in it, and verify with the shop how the correct amount of oil will be added during the charging process. pag oil is like brake fluid in regards to moisture, you don't want the bottle uncapped or exposed to air/moisture for any length of time.
I just paid 1700 ish left it to a pro and believe me I like you man . This just isn't worth it . My compressor sent out shavings everywhere . The mechanic said it clogged my condenser and lines . In parts it cost 1300 and labor was the rest . If you don't get the metal shavings it grenades all the new parts you installed
