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I have been using this site as a resource to rebuild my project car (car info in title). I apologize if this thread is in the wrong section but I didn't see where else to put it since everything will be mentioned in this thread.
This is a list of what parts were missing or generally screwing **** up when I bought the vehicle approx two years ago. Also what many of you have already helped me replace and repair.
1. EGR delete, port welded shut
2. aftermarket cam (maybe)
3. 42lb/hr injectors
4. no working audio
5. spark plug boots worn
6. A/C dryer accumulator missing
7. Alternator ****** up
Parts that are now in
1. A/C dryer accumulator
2. 24 lb/hr fuel injectors
3. alternator
4. 6/8 speakers
5. AC Delco spark plugs
6. MSD Plug wires
7. Alternator
8. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
9. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
10. MAP Sensor
Current condition of the Camaro:
I was a victim of a hit and run in NJ so the passenger fender needs to be painted. The entire car needs to be painted again. The wheels are victims of time and gravity so the chrome looks like crap. The front speakers are blown. I have the following codes appearing when the engine is running:
P0135 O2 Heater sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 1
P0300 all cylinders miss firing at random
P0405 EGR Sensor
P0412 Air Switching valve problem
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit signal high open
I did the following work earlier today, vacuum check at the brake booster line. 9-10 PSI. Fuel pressure check at 60 PSI and new spark plugs in an attempt to fix the misfire issue. I will have to check the following next weekend: more vacuum lines and cylinder pressure check. I hate working on the spark plugs with the LS1. Any advice on the P0300 issue is appreciated.
Last edited by 00SSProject; 01-14-2015 at 05:33 PM.
With the proper scan tool you can see which cylinder or cylinders are throwing the misfire code ...
Your just guessing and wasting time and money otherwise
All cylinders are misfiring, I was using a snap on Solus that displayed all cylinders misfiring at random. Their was no worst one when I was running the diagnostic. If you have encountered that before what was your solution? the lowest number of misfires was 50 something from what I remember. I appreciate your reply.
I was at work thinking about the paint that my Camaro needs. I was wondering how the side molding on the door is held on there. Has anyone removed it before and decided to leave it off? I don't want to waste time searching for a new piece to replace the one ripped off in NJ. Any info would be appreciated.
Today I had some time to finally pull the intake off and check to see if it is an LS6 or LS1. I found out one of my exhaust clamps was loose and a hanger is broken off. I am still working on pulling the camshaft out to figure out if its factory or aftermarket, same deal
with the heads. Below are some photos.
Intake part number
Under the intake manifold has a lot of carbon build up
If you're planning on running stock SS wheels I have a set I took off my 2000 3 days after I took delivery.
Here are the painted 10 spokes that came with the car (September 15th, 1999):
And here are the ZR1 5 spokes I still have on the car (September 18th, 1999):
The 10 spokes are in the SLP boxes my set of ZR1 wheels came in. I also have the matching OEM center caps. I can get them out and and take some pictures if you' re interested.
Last edited by leres; 11-09-2014 at 07:43 PM.
Reason: center caps
leres, thank you for mentioning the wheels. I have stock ten spoke wheels that have chrome flaking off. I plan on just reusing those because I'm on a budget.
So I figured out what I was doing wrong with my rebuild. I checked the owners manual to verify the spark plug gap. In the book it states .060 is the standard for the gap. I looked online and found out it needs to be .040 (SHOULD right?). If all of my spark plugs are off by .02 and misfiring at random then putting them at .040 should solve the problem of P0300. In regards to determining if my heads and and camshaft are factory I realized trying to pull the camshaft out while the engine is still in will not work. So realizing that I'm a moron and need to do better research before grabbing a wrench.
On to my big question of the night, is a head and camshaft upgrade worth the effort and money or is a camshaft only upgrade better? People please weigh in.
So earlier today I was able to put all of the pieces back together and get the engine running. However, I was unable to plug something back in before the hobby shop closed. Below is a photo of the unplugged sensor and I have no idea what it belongs to.
unplugged sensor
Switching this vehicle from a weekend racer to a daily driver is not easy but, I feel it will be very rewarding in the long run.
alright people of LS1tech, I may have an issue with my oil sender switch. When I was driving earlier today I had a check gauge light on and my oil pressure was stuck at zero. So I went on google to figure out how to get to the unit figuring my idiot self just forgot to plug it back in. That was not the case this time. I reached in behind the intake and found the sensor. When I went to see if it was plugged in, it was and also so loose it wiggled out at the orange o-ring/gasket. I fear I have half of the sending unit still stuck in the engine block because I feel a plastic piece like the seal from a Dex-Cool container in the socket area. Any ideas people? I'm trying to get the engine running again, I bought a new sensor, sensor socket and gasket seals for the intake. I have no idea where to go from here.
Alright, I got everything back together and the spark plugs were all gaped at .040 so I used the Snap on Solus scan tool and found the P0300 code still active. I looked at all of the cylinders and found cylinder one to be the worst. EGR and AIR codes are still active because I haven't tuned them out yet. The code for P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit signal high open is gone for now it seems. I plan on doing a compression test tomorrow. This is what I have done to resolve the P0300 code so far:
1. check spark plug gap
2. check fuel injectors (all at about 39 psi)
3. Switch coil packs from cylinder 1 to 2 and 2 to 1
I have two goals tomorrow, compression test and resolve my exhaust rattle. Hopefully both goals will be achieved. After mechanical is fixed I will move on to paint and body, eventually.
From lt4malibu ["The minimum compression in any one cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest cylinder. No cylinder should read less than 690 kPa (100 psi). For example, if the highest pressure in any one cylinder is 1035 kPa (150 psi), the lowest allowable pressure for any other cylinder would be 725 kPa (105 psi). (1035 x 70% = 725) (150 x 70% = 105).
Normal -- Compression builds up quickly and evenly to the specified compression for each cylinder."
So in my case 158 x 70%= 110 which all cylinders are passing, it might be weak pressure but it seems to build pressure fine. If the numbers are freakishly low someone let me know, I will be replacing spark plug wires next week because the set I have are falling apart when I remove them from the spark plug.
I also found out that the rattle sound was my exhaust banging against a heat shield behind a wheel well. So I have to wrap it in header wrap or something similar.
To Do list still:
Repair defroster in rear hatch
Quiet the exhaust rattle
Tune PCM (read previous post for more info)
So I installed a new set of MSD plug wires and the P0300 code seems to be solved. Now the car is running rich again and the MAP sensor is throwing a code. I went to test drive the car and my driver side front brake caliper came apart at 55 mph. I had minimal braking power and lost a few pieces. Made it home safe and got a flashlight to look at the caliper, it was hanging from the top resting on the wheel. Looks like this car doesn't want to be on the highway.
I shall now call her Christine because she is the daughter of the devil...... At least this time I knew what was wrong with the car and it should be an easy fix on Monday. If I haven't run out of patience yet, its wearing very thin with this project.
(Shakes head); some people (like the previous owner[s] of this poor SS) just REFUSE to do ANY maintenance on their rides, and are ONLY intent on beating the ever living **** out of them.
It pisses me off BIG TIME!!
Did you ever verify if it's a stock cam? Instead of pulling it out, you could pull a valve cover off and use a dial indicator and max lift might be enough to find out. Of course it would be valve lift and not lobe peak, so /1.7 or just measure from the pr side.
What was that connector from? Ever find out?
It seems like you're getting her straightened out though. Good luck.
I was unable to verify if it was a stock cam, I have to get a set of gaskets for my intake every time I pull the intake off and taking the intake off is a pain in the butt. I only have about four or five hours a day to work on the car so it limits my progress. I will probably not be able to do a lot of work for awhile. After I fix the brake issue I won't be turning wrenches for a bit.
The connector was never plugged back in but I know it isn't throwing a code yet.
I don't know what I will do next but it seems I will have the vehicle in storage shortly. Work schedule isn't cooperating with the project.
So I fixed the brakes, got the car running fairly well and now the electrical system is taking a crap on me. I went to start up the engine this morning and nothing would turn on. I know the starter works, the battery is charged and the electrical connectors are fine to the starter. Also when I attempt to use the key fob to lock up the car that doesn't work either. Everything points to ECU and wiring in my opinion.
I spoke to a few people and I think its either the ECU or the wiring, a lot of wiring issues. At this point I don't know if I should just take it to a reputable shop and pay to have the electrical fixed.
Open to suggestions on fixing it myself or if you know of a shop in the Colorado springs area let me know.
Last edited by 00SSProject; 12-09-2014 at 12:25 AM.
11-02-2014, 08:59 PM
2000 Camaro SS rebuild 
And here are the ZR1 5 spokes I still have on the car (September 18th, 1999):
The 10 spokes are in the SLP boxes my set of ZR1 wheels came in. I also have the matching OEM center caps. I can get them out and and take some pictures if you' re interested. 
oil sender switch 
