power steering rack leaking what are my options ?
01-14-2015, 02:50 PM
#2
$1500 to change a rack?????? Holy ****. Either find a different mechanic or do it yourself. All you need are basic hand tools and maybe a sawzall to get that driverside bolt out.
If you have basic mechanical ability your can do it in an afternoon and you'd need an alignment afterwards.
If you have basic mechanical ability your can do it in an afternoon and you'd need an alignment afterwards.
01-14-2015, 08:04 PM
#4
Yes, do a search for the swap. The trick is cutting the top of the bolt off so make sure you have a replacement to put the new rack back on. Also make sure that you get the V8 rack. The v6 is a different piece. I bought a used piece and sent it to be rebuilt at Turn One. You will need someone to help cutting the bolt. Hold it with vice grips while cutting with a saws all.
01-14-2015, 08:45 PM
#5
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honestly the passenger bolt and getting the lines off without stripping them are the hardest part. I didn't use a right-up, once the front wheels are off it's pretty clear what needs to be done.
Remove tie-rod ends from knuckle
Unbolt Intermediate shaft
Unbolt Power steering lines (use pan to catch fluid)
Undo the 2 bolts holding rack to k-member (cut out passenger side bolt using saw, be careful around brake line, I used a cut off wheel and went half thru the brake hard line which set me back a day since the parts stores where already closed)
Remove rack
now to "get it close" remove tie rod ends from existing rack counting the number of rotations needed to remove, install new tie rod ends (because it makes no sense to install the old ones, if your rack is bad you probably need new tie rod ends) the same number of turns it took to remove old ones.
install rack on car and bolt everything back up and follow instructions for bleeding the power steering system.
Remove tie-rod ends from knuckle
Unbolt Intermediate shaft
Unbolt Power steering lines (use pan to catch fluid)
Undo the 2 bolts holding rack to k-member (cut out passenger side bolt using saw, be careful around brake line, I used a cut off wheel and went half thru the brake hard line which set me back a day since the parts stores where already closed)
Remove rack
now to "get it close" remove tie rod ends from existing rack counting the number of rotations needed to remove, install new tie rod ends (because it makes no sense to install the old ones, if your rack is bad you probably need new tie rod ends) the same number of turns it took to remove old ones.
install rack on car and bolt everything back up and follow instructions for bleeding the power steering system.
Last edited by Daniel Richards; 01-14-2015 at 11:35 PM.
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01-15-2015, 12:42 PM
#8
i would do it yourself, unless that $1500 includes the cost of the rack and labor is something like $200-300.
in doing a new rack you might want to do it all once and do it right, and also replace your power steering pump. and replace all your hoses, the pressure hose from pump to rack can get from rockauto for $25. flushing the system which is just hoses at this point is not a good idea when the hoses are old. when they deteriorate inside that debris gets pushed through eventually killing the rack and pump. and if you have the oem power steering cooler in the upper radiator hose, now would be the time to disconnect the power steering hoses from it and then have just have 2 hoses- the pressure hose from pump to gear, and the return from gear to pump reservoir; the new rack may have the 2 new hard lines from it to the steering gear, if not then reuse your old ones and those because they're stainless hard lines you can flush and blow out with compressed air, unless you destroy the fittings removing them from the old rack.
and i wouldn't go looking for power steering fluid with "stop leak". that's mostly a gimmick anyway, for a clean system with new parts i would consider buying 2 qts from a GM dealership it's not that expensive otherwise just go with a name brand power steering fluid with no special additives. the best thing you can do is use clean fresh fluid and keep it maintained, spending money on redline/amsoil/RP power steering fluid then never changing it is worse.
in doing a new rack you might want to do it all once and do it right, and also replace your power steering pump. and replace all your hoses, the pressure hose from pump to rack can get from rockauto for $25. flushing the system which is just hoses at this point is not a good idea when the hoses are old. when they deteriorate inside that debris gets pushed through eventually killing the rack and pump. and if you have the oem power steering cooler in the upper radiator hose, now would be the time to disconnect the power steering hoses from it and then have just have 2 hoses- the pressure hose from pump to gear, and the return from gear to pump reservoir; the new rack may have the 2 new hard lines from it to the steering gear, if not then reuse your old ones and those because they're stainless hard lines you can flush and blow out with compressed air, unless you destroy the fittings removing them from the old rack.
and i wouldn't go looking for power steering fluid with "stop leak". that's mostly a gimmick anyway, for a clean system with new parts i would consider buying 2 qts from a GM dealership it's not that expensive otherwise just go with a name brand power steering fluid with no special additives. the best thing you can do is use clean fresh fluid and keep it maintained, spending money on redline/amsoil/RP power steering fluid then never changing it is worse.
01-18-2015, 04:58 PM
#10
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Of course, even with the above fluids the system must be flushed/maintained every once in a while.
01-27-2015, 09:10 PM
#11
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Man that's super expensive. When mine leaked I bought a used rack and pinion for about $120 shipped and had it changed for $100 from my mechanic who works out of his house. He did tell me that one of the bolts had to be cut to be removed. That's probably the hardest part.
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Wam11118 (01-24-2020)
01-28-2015, 06:04 AM
#12
Man that's super expensive. When mine leaked I bought a used rack and pinion for about $120 shipped and had it changed for $100 from my mechanic who works out of his house. He did tell me that one of the bolts had to be cut to be removed. That's probably the hardest part.
Camaraderie,
If you have an F-Body club local to you.....theres got to be someone who will do it for you to make some extra cash.
.
