LTX_Alex

I went to take the car to pep boys to get my A/C recharged & the technician came back and told me I have a leak with the A/C lines. From what he told me, it was leaking from the condenser and from underneath the car (From what, I've read & seen in pictures, could be the A/C line that goes behind the compressor.) He gave me a total price of $660 including labor to fix this problem. I'm trying to fix the problem anyway I can possibly. I don't know, if they're being honest or trying to steal my money. I haven't personally checked to see if it has any leaks but what are ways I can check? The technician also did say it was very low on Freon along with both A/C lines were leaking. Any suggestion I can do to rule out anything would it be the O ring possibly? Any ideas & suggestions are greatly appreciated. '99 Trans Am A4

Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

http://xado.us has a fix for the leak for like $20 and it will last 60000 miles. but you might not get the A/C anti-leak and conditioner ask their help desk.

I tried the xado 1 stage engine conditioner and it worked flawlessly for 60000 miles I bought that revitalizant $54.95.

btw, what the o rings? are they o rings of A/C compressor pistons?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I'm not an A/C expert, but I play one on the internet...

I'd first ask them for an itemized estimate.

My recollection is that the air and moisture and dirt that get in the A/C system when you have a leak can do damage to the system. They probably want to charge you to change the orifice tube and maybe even the dryer - plus any other parts that are leaking, like the evaporator. You can also probably assume that 1/2-ish of the cost is their labor.

If you don't pay for the larger repair, they may not warranty the work and may even refuse to do it in the first place. (Because people who refuse warranties still come back and complain/sue.) You may also be risking a more expensive repair in the near future by doing this one inexpensively.

You may have to take it to a small shop to waive the warranty and get them to do the work by only replacing the leaking parts/seals. But - you will be taking that risk on a larger repair.

Finding out what Pep Boys wants to actually do should help you make a more informed decision.

LTX_Alex

I ended up going to a good friend of mine's shop for a second opinion on the A/C situation. (He did not charge me, but was giving me crap for being a fool for going to Pep boys instead of going to him at the beginning but he was playing around though.) He then hooked up his A/C machine to let it recharge ; we let it charge for 10-15 minutes and it was not holding any charge at all. He than later told me I should get a new condenser, A/C accumulator, & A/C lines. I noticed as well, each time I would turn on the A/C as it would blow the hot air. I wouldn't hear the compressor recycle. (Like it would make a sound when it would be constantly on.)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a $800 job.

LTX_Alex

I'm sorry for the late reply, I just decided that I will get my A/C parts one by one to save some money. The most expensive parts are the A/C lines and the condenser new.

LopeyZ

iTrader: (2)

So did your buddy try applying a vacuum to the system before attempting to add freon? If it won't hold a vacuum then it will not charge. If it will not charge then the compressor will not kick on. Why replace every component if all you have is a leaking line?

Firebrian

The low pressure line with receiver/drier and orifice tube are cheap, usually from $45-$65. Those should just get changed any ways on most any repair of the system. The high pressure steel line runs around $75 and should be less likely to leak because there are no crimped rubber/metal fittings like the LP line has. I had to change my HP line because it ended up getting worn all the way through in the vicinity of the HP cutout sensor ($50). Strange how that happened. It looked like it was machined flat. If the compressor has never been changed that's the most expensive item under the hood. Often the seals go on them after 10-15 years. A new OEM Delphi compressor will run $300. You can probably buy an off-quality brand for $175-$250. I wouldn't even consider a reman unit. If your condenser needs work, the compressor is probably not far behind.

I took my car 2X to a local shop before they got all the leaks. They didn't even catch the HP line leak the first time around because the compressor leak was more obvious. The oil accumulating at the bottom of the compressor was a sign that it was leaking at the casing seal. Delphi compressor + HP/LP lines/receiver drier + HP c/o switch + labor ran me about $775. I went out and bought the parts and those ran $500. I only wanted to be in the system once. Going back and doing it over and over again is often not cost effective. Last thing I needed was the compressor sending metal shavings all throughout the system.

LTX_Alex

[QUOTE=LopeyZ;18750755]So did your buddy try applying a vacuum to the system before attempting to add freon? If it won't hold a vacuum then it will not charge. If it will not charge then the compressor will not kick on. Why replace every component if all you have is a leaking line

We tried adding Freon but It wouldn't hold any at all.

WarmWeatherBird

I had mine go out about four years ago (September 2010) - ended up being that the compressor had gone bad and mine had leaked away. I believe you have to replace the dryer anytime you open the system. Had to buy freon, oil, and a vacuum that I could use with the air compressor that I have. Already had gauges. Of course a new compressor - and we replaced the orings/gaskets throughout the system. Another fun toy I got at the time was a laser temperature gauge. An old AC guy told me that you can test the air coming out of your vents to see what the difference is between that and the ambient air temp - to see that your system is performing the way it should.

At the time, the best price I was quoted was $650 for the job and parts but we ended up doing it ourselves. I just checked and actually have the receipt from the wholesaler where I got mine - it was $225 for the compressor, dryer, hose and orings shipped to my door. Seems like I paid about half of what the local car part stores wanted and knock wood that bugger is still chillin just fine. (And I live in Florida - so it gets a workout) If you want the information - drop me a message and I'll send it over. Good Luck!

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

easiest way to check for leak is look for refrigerant oil seeping anywhere- follow the lines from the compressor to the condenser to the firewall, out of the firewall to the accumulator back to the compressor. if the case of the compressor is damp or shows any signs of oil you should consider a new compressor... the car is 15 years old you probably need the entire ac system worked over... if you want reliable AC. Being in vegas if the car sees a lot of heat, your ac lines that go from hard to flex are probably shot and you should replace those too.
other common leakage point is the valves at the high and low service ports. when you undo the plastic cap to them, if you hear a slight psst then that's one leakage point.
your description of not holding charge is a little vague, suggest you shop around for licensed ac repair shops your buddy might not be much better than pepboys.
FYI- you have an accumulator on your car not a receiver/dryer. and you have an orifice tube, not a thermostatic expansion valve. the refrigerant is r134a, when you say 'freon' that's the tradename for r-12 refrigerant... it's like saying put gas in my truck when you have a diesel engine.
and the car being 15 years old if the ac system was never touched, you will need at least a new accumulator... and if there's a leak and you are replacing a line then you are evacuating all the refrigerant, the orifice tube should be pulled and inspected. if it's at all dirty, has sludge or debris, you need the whole system flushed and possible a new condenser. condensers don't flush well and it's easier and more a guaranteed fix to just replace it. then assuming your existing compressor is still good you can reuse it, they should at least charge the system and run it first before doing any work, and observe high/low side pressure to know.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

so your buddy rips on pepboys then proceeds to just fill it with refrigerant. He should have started by pulling a vacuum to check for leaks, thats the first step any decent shop should do, if leaks are confirmed then you start looking for them.

watch this video, he does a pretty decent job of showing what to do


the guy I got my T/A highrise hatch from actually did A/C install/repair in buildings in Atlanta so he has one of those sniffers and tracked my leak to the o-rings where the lines go into the back of the compressor, he was also nice enough to add some 134a to my car as it was a hot day. FYI the compressor won't engage till there is enough refrigerant in the system (as exampled in the video).

LTX_Alex

Alright everyone, I started buying the parts I need for the A/C problem. I already bought the discharge line, A/C hose assembly, A/C accumulator and condenser.

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Wow, so much wrong here. The chances of needing all those parts, because of leaks; is extremely high. I/we do thousands of dollars of A/C repairs a year... never has it been those combination of parts all at the same time.

If it's a hose, I guarantee if you put forth 15 minutes of searching in your towns business directory; you'll find a place willing to fix almost any leaking hose for under 45 bucks.

The accumulator can't really leak, unless something has rubbed a whole in the side of it. It's possibly the seal going to and from are bad, that cost 5 dollars in parts plus the evac/recharge.

Condenser rarely has leaks unless previously been in an accident. If its leaking and in good shape, again... seals can be replaced for pennies.

Unless your car caught on fire or was home to all of Vegas' squirrels, there is no way all those parts are leaking at one time. If you were in Florida, my AC check is 19.99 and I would be able to tell exactly what was needed. What you are being told seems like non sense from incompetent people listing entire sections of the system for a simple leak they can not find with proper equipment and the slightest of knowledge. Good luck!

Of course with the disclaimer... IMO