Radiator Removal, A/C Discharge Req?
07-29-2015, 05:26 PM
#1
Radiator Removal, A/C Discharge Req? I'll be swapping out my radiator this weekend (plastic end tanks finally started cracking). I was checking the procedure in the Chilton manual, and it says:
On 1998 and later models, the A/C system will need to be discharged, as it is necessary to remove the radiator with the A/C condenser still attached.
My car is a 1998 LS1 automatic without the engine oil cooler. I took a look at the radiators, and the above seems unnecessary to me (at least, from what is visible pre-disassembly). The A/C condenser rests in plastic clips angled upwards from the radiator. If removing out the bottom of the car, it seems like the condenser could be lifted slightly as the radiator is lowered in order to clear the clips.
Does anyone have any experience pulling the radiator from an LS1 car, who can tell me if this is truly necessary? I'd hate to drain everything and have the radiator half way out, only to realize I need a shop to vacuum the refrigerant out (yes, I'd like to do it the correct way and not vent to the atmosphere).
Much thanks in advance for any advice.
On 1998 and later models, the A/C system will need to be discharged, as it is necessary to remove the radiator with the A/C condenser still attached.
My car is a 1998 LS1 automatic without the engine oil cooler. I took a look at the radiators, and the above seems unnecessary to me (at least, from what is visible pre-disassembly). The A/C condenser rests in plastic clips angled upwards from the radiator. If removing out the bottom of the car, it seems like the condenser could be lifted slightly as the radiator is lowered in order to clear the clips.
Does anyone have any experience pulling the radiator from an LS1 car, who can tell me if this is truly necessary? I'd hate to drain everything and have the radiator half way out, only to realize I need a shop to vacuum the refrigerant out (yes, I'd like to do it the correct way and not vent to the atmosphere).
Much thanks in advance for any advice.
07-29-2015, 06:47 PM
#2
No, you don't need to discharge it (it's illegal to do so anyway.) You'll have to do alittle bit of shimmying but it should be fairly straight forward to remove it. I had to do mine a few months ago.
07-30-2015, 12:06 AM
#3
I'll be swapping out my radiator this weekend (plastic end tanks finally started cracking). I was checking the procedure in the Chilton manual, and it says:
On 1998 and later models, the A/C system will need to be discharged, as it is necessary to remove the radiator with the A/C condenser still attached.
My car is a 1998 LS1 automatic without the engine oil cooler. I took a look at the radiators, and the above seems unnecessary to me (at least, from what is visible pre-disassembly). The A/C condenser rests in plastic clips angled upwards from the radiator. If removing out the bottom of the car, it seems like the condenser could be lifted slightly as the radiator is lowered in order to clear the clips.
Does anyone have any experience pulling the radiator from an LS1 car, who can tell me if this is truly necessary? I'd hate to drain everything and have the radiator half way out, only to realize I need a shop to vacuum the refrigerant out (yes, I'd like to do it the correct way and not vent to the atmosphere).
Much thanks in advance for any advice.
On 1998 and later models, the A/C system will need to be discharged, as it is necessary to remove the radiator with the A/C condenser still attached.
My car is a 1998 LS1 automatic without the engine oil cooler. I took a look at the radiators, and the above seems unnecessary to me (at least, from what is visible pre-disassembly). The A/C condenser rests in plastic clips angled upwards from the radiator. If removing out the bottom of the car, it seems like the condenser could be lifted slightly as the radiator is lowered in order to clear the clips.
Does anyone have any experience pulling the radiator from an LS1 car, who can tell me if this is truly necessary? I'd hate to drain everything and have the radiator half way out, only to realize I need a shop to vacuum the refrigerant out (yes, I'd like to do it the correct way and not vent to the atmosphere).
Much thanks in advance for any advice.
I've done it 3-4 times.....I can have a radiator out in 15-20 minutes.
.
07-30-2015, 06:20 PM
#4
Thanks so much to the both of you. That helps a lot in confirming my suspicions. I've pulled the fan assembly off before, which wasn't too hard. I suspect the most tedious part of this will be drain-and-fill cleanup, and potentially wrestling with the trans cooler line fittings, which have a fair amount of rust on them. Hopefully they don't put up a fight, and the mating surfaces are still smooth enough to make a good seal.
08-05-2015, 04:04 AM
#6
What I did was run through the stock cooler, then to my after market cooler. The reason is because the stock cooler warms the fluid up faster on a cold start, but the after market helps it keep cool after it reaches operating temperatures so you get the best of both worlds.
08-05-2015, 10:24 PM
#7
Thanks for the advice. You were quite correct, as removing the A/C condenser would have been overkill. It separated quite easily from the radiator on extraction. It is a bit harder to get lined up when inserting the new radiator, particularly the lower tabs, as there is no way to hold or manipulate the condenser that far down. With a bit of patience, it is quite doable, however.
As expected, the transmission lines did provide their share of complication. The upper one wanted to round off at the rusted fitting using a crescent wrench. I switched to a pair of Vice Grips and it came off without much drama. The lower one, due to more exposure to road salt and moisture, was more complicated. Access was worse, but I was able to apply the same technique to loosen the lower fitting after much effort. The biggest issue was that the collar had actually rusted TO the hard line which it secures! Keep in mind that there are no threads between them, the collar should simply ride loosely around the hard line. Due to this issue, I was not able to unscrew the fitting without twisting the hardline and hose, which would have surely damaged them. I simply soaked things with Parts Blaster once more, and worked the fitting back-and-forth repeatedly until the collar separated from the hardline again.
I thought that would be the biggest obstacle. Unfortunately it was not. The radiator I ordered a week and a half before, turned out to be missing the fitting for the coolant line to the throttle body. I believe this was because it was intended for the V6 model. I didn't notice this until I had already installed it in the car and began filling it with coolant. Luckily a nearby O'Reilly had one in stock (first one I ordered for $55 online, the next was about double) so I had a friend give me a lift. This radiator had an EXTRA fitting on the driver's side at the bottom. I informed them of this at the store, but they assured me it would work. Being that I didn’t have much choice at this point, I took it.
The missing fitting from the first new radiator featured a rubber cap and hose clamp on it for this second radiator. An optional fitting for sure. As I had proposed at the store, I removed this cap and transferred it to the extra fitting on the bottom which I wouldn’t be using. This worked. I was able to drive the car around after installing and filling the radiator. However, the next day I came out to my car to find that the coolant was slowly leaking under the car, from—you guessed it—the rubber cap. Problem is, the fitting it was removed from was 0.4”, whereas the one I used it for was 5/8,” so it ripped. Another trip to the auto parts store, and I now have the correct 5/8” cap on the unneeded fitting and all is well.
As for the trans cooler, two things: My original radiator is 17-18 years old now. I’ve never had a problem with coolant and ATF mixing. I trust this will be fine with proper maintenance. And two, I plan to swap to a manual trans in the near future when I pull the motor. At that point, I’ll be making a lot more power and will need to put in a beefier radiator anyway. One without the trans cooler. Hence the reason I went for the cheaper rad replacement.
As expected, the transmission lines did provide their share of complication. The upper one wanted to round off at the rusted fitting using a crescent wrench. I switched to a pair of Vice Grips and it came off without much drama. The lower one, due to more exposure to road salt and moisture, was more complicated. Access was worse, but I was able to apply the same technique to loosen the lower fitting after much effort. The biggest issue was that the collar had actually rusted TO the hard line which it secures! Keep in mind that there are no threads between them, the collar should simply ride loosely around the hard line. Due to this issue, I was not able to unscrew the fitting without twisting the hardline and hose, which would have surely damaged them. I simply soaked things with Parts Blaster once more, and worked the fitting back-and-forth repeatedly until the collar separated from the hardline again.
I thought that would be the biggest obstacle. Unfortunately it was not. The radiator I ordered a week and a half before, turned out to be missing the fitting for the coolant line to the throttle body. I believe this was because it was intended for the V6 model. I didn't notice this until I had already installed it in the car and began filling it with coolant. Luckily a nearby O'Reilly had one in stock (first one I ordered for $55 online, the next was about double) so I had a friend give me a lift. This radiator had an EXTRA fitting on the driver's side at the bottom. I informed them of this at the store, but they assured me it would work. Being that I didn’t have much choice at this point, I took it.
The missing fitting from the first new radiator featured a rubber cap and hose clamp on it for this second radiator. An optional fitting for sure. As I had proposed at the store, I removed this cap and transferred it to the extra fitting on the bottom which I wouldn’t be using. This worked. I was able to drive the car around after installing and filling the radiator. However, the next day I came out to my car to find that the coolant was slowly leaking under the car, from—you guessed it—the rubber cap. Problem is, the fitting it was removed from was 0.4”, whereas the one I used it for was 5/8,” so it ripped. Another trip to the auto parts store, and I now have the correct 5/8” cap on the unneeded fitting and all is well.
As for the trans cooler, two things: My original radiator is 17-18 years old now. I’ve never had a problem with coolant and ATF mixing. I trust this will be fine with proper maintenance. And two, I plan to swap to a manual trans in the near future when I pull the motor. At that point, I’ll be making a lot more power and will need to put in a beefier radiator anyway. One without the trans cooler. Hence the reason I went for the cheaper rad replacement.
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08-06-2015, 01:13 AM
#8
Thanks for the advice. You were quite correct, as removing the A/C condenser would have been overkill. It separated quite easily from the radiator on extraction. It is a bit harder to get lined up when inserting the new radiator, particularly the lower tabs, as there is no way to hold or manipulate the condenser that far down. With a bit of patience, it is quite doable, however.
As expected, the transmission lines did provide their share of complication. The upper one wanted to round off at the rusted fitting using a crescent wrench. I switched to a pair of Vice Grips and it came off without much drama. The lower one, due to more exposure to road salt and moisture, was more complicated. Access was worse, but I was able to apply the same technique to loosen the lower fitting after much effort. The biggest issue was that the collar had actually rusted TO the hard line which it secures! Keep in mind that there are no threads between them, the collar should simply ride loosely around the hard line. Due to this issue, I was not able to unscrew the fitting without twisting the hardline and hose, which would have surely damaged them. I simply soaked things with Parts Blaster once more, and worked the fitting back-and-forth repeatedly until the collar separated from the hardline again.
I thought that would be the biggest obstacle. Unfortunately it was not. The radiator I ordered a week and a half before, turned out to be missing the fitting for the coolant line to the throttle body. I believe this was because it was intended for the V6 model. I didn't notice this until I had already installed it in the car and began filling it with coolant. Luckily a nearby O'Reilly had one in stock (first one I ordered for $55 online, the next was about double) so I had a friend give me a lift. This radiator had an EXTRA fitting on the driver's side at the bottom. I informed them of this at the store, but they assured me it would work. Being that I didn’t have much choice at this point, I took it.
The missing fitting from the first new radiator featured a rubber cap and hose clamp on it for this second radiator. An optional fitting for sure. As I had proposed at the store, I removed this cap and transferred it to the extra fitting on the bottom which I wouldn’t be using. This worked. I was able to drive the car around after installing and filling the radiator. However, the next day I came out to my car to find that the coolant was slowly leaking under the car, from—you guessed it—the rubber cap. Problem is, the fitting it was removed from was 0.4”, whereas the one I used it for was 5/8,” so it ripped. Another trip to the auto parts store, and I now have the correct 5/8” cap on the unneeded fitting and all is well.
As for the trans cooler, two things: My original radiator is 17-18 years old now. I’ve never had a problem with coolant and ATF mixing. I trust this will be fine with proper maintenance. And two, I plan to swap to a manual trans in the near future when I pull the motor. At that point, I’ll be making a lot more power and will need to put in a beefier radiator anyway. One without the trans cooler. Hence the reason I went for the cheaper rad replacement.
As expected, the transmission lines did provide their share of complication. The upper one wanted to round off at the rusted fitting using a crescent wrench. I switched to a pair of Vice Grips and it came off without much drama. The lower one, due to more exposure to road salt and moisture, was more complicated. Access was worse, but I was able to apply the same technique to loosen the lower fitting after much effort. The biggest issue was that the collar had actually rusted TO the hard line which it secures! Keep in mind that there are no threads between them, the collar should simply ride loosely around the hard line. Due to this issue, I was not able to unscrew the fitting without twisting the hardline and hose, which would have surely damaged them. I simply soaked things with Parts Blaster once more, and worked the fitting back-and-forth repeatedly until the collar separated from the hardline again.
I thought that would be the biggest obstacle. Unfortunately it was not. The radiator I ordered a week and a half before, turned out to be missing the fitting for the coolant line to the throttle body. I believe this was because it was intended for the V6 model. I didn't notice this until I had already installed it in the car and began filling it with coolant. Luckily a nearby O'Reilly had one in stock (first one I ordered for $55 online, the next was about double) so I had a friend give me a lift. This radiator had an EXTRA fitting on the driver's side at the bottom. I informed them of this at the store, but they assured me it would work. Being that I didn’t have much choice at this point, I took it.
The missing fitting from the first new radiator featured a rubber cap and hose clamp on it for this second radiator. An optional fitting for sure. As I had proposed at the store, I removed this cap and transferred it to the extra fitting on the bottom which I wouldn’t be using. This worked. I was able to drive the car around after installing and filling the radiator. However, the next day I came out to my car to find that the coolant was slowly leaking under the car, from—you guessed it—the rubber cap. Problem is, the fitting it was removed from was 0.4”, whereas the one I used it for was 5/8,” so it ripped. Another trip to the auto parts store, and I now have the correct 5/8” cap on the unneeded fitting and all is well.
As for the trans cooler, two things: My original radiator is 17-18 years old now. I’ve never had a problem with coolant and ATF mixing. I trust this will be fine with proper maintenance. And two, I plan to swap to a manual trans in the near future when I pull the motor. At that point, I’ll be making a lot more power and will need to put in a beefier radiator anyway. One without the trans cooler. Hence the reason I went for the cheaper rad replacement.
Getting the right LS1 radiator is actually alot trickier than it should be because to save money alot of companies make universal radiator between all 3 models of 4th gens, LT1's, LS1's and V6's but each radiator although similar in size and shape is much different than another.
I went with an eBay aluminum radiator which also does not have the provisioning for throttle body but I improvised and fed it into my upper radiator hose with a T-Fitting adapter.
08-08-2015, 04:35 PM
#9
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I''m doing the same thing as we speak. Luckily mine is a 93T/A w/ a 6- speed and T-tops (which I have not found another one optioned like that for a 93). This is the first time that I've done this on a 4th gen but I believe it's straight forward. If not, someone let me know lol
08-08-2015, 08:00 PM
#10
I''m doing the same thing as we speak. Luckily mine is a 93T/A w/ a 6- speed and T-tops (which I have not found another one optioned like that for a 93). This is the first time that I've done this on a 4th gen but I believe it's straight forward. If not, someone let me know lol
08-09-2015, 12:27 PM
#11
I''m doing the same thing as we speak. Luckily mine is a 93T/A w/ a 6- speed and T-tops (which I have not found another one optioned like that for a 93). This is the first time that I've done this on a 4th gen but I believe it's straight forward. If not, someone let me know lol