Please HELP! Car won't start after HVAC delete
07-31-2015, 12:34 PM
#1
Please HELP! Car won't start after HVAC delete So I decided to remove the heather and the entire HVAC ducting since I don't use it. I removed the dash and all the wires connected to everything that was being removed. I made my own plate and covered the area up, and then started to put everything back in place. But now.....the car won't start?? It gets power when I turn the ignition, but won't crank over.
Is there a connector that I didn't plug in? Also, I notice my dome light doesn't go on when I open my door, and before it did.
When I removed the heater hoses from inside the engine compartment, a little coolant spilled down the backside of the motor, could it of gone on the starter and messed it up?
Sorry for the long story, just need some input and advice what to look at. Thanks in advance!
Is there a connector that I didn't plug in? Also, I notice my dome light doesn't go on when I open my door, and before it did.
When I removed the heater hoses from inside the engine compartment, a little coolant spilled down the backside of the motor, could it of gone on the starter and messed it up?
Sorry for the long story, just need some input and advice what to look at. Thanks in advance!
07-31-2015, 02:15 PM
#2
I've checked all fuses and are good. The starter connections are dry and I didn't really wet the starter. I can hear the fuel pump prime when turn on ignition. Also added jumper cables to see if it needed extra juice, but still won't crank over.
07-31-2015, 07:01 PM
#6
TECH Fanatic
I mentioned the BCM since the interior courtesy lamps aren't coming on. Both of your problems point to it; they're both functions of the BCM. Sounds like you have a ground issue there. The BCM provides the ground for the under hood starter relay. That's the first thing that I would check. If you are fairly savvy with electrical, then break out the meter and find where the BCM ground hits the relay and have someone try to crank it while you check for that ground (relay removed). The positive battery voltage comes from the ignition switch. If they're both good then you should hear it click.
07-31-2015, 07:15 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
I'm sure you didn't thrown away anything that you had to disconnect electrical connectors to. It's a black box at the passenger side kick panel. Do a search on it.
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07-31-2015, 08:00 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
Uh oh. That sucks. Can you get your hands on it ... or is it in the landfill by now? If not, you're going to have to get another one and probably do the VATS bypass or change the ignition switch, because the odds that the key resistance matching what the replacement BCM is looking for is slim.
07-31-2015, 09:09 PM
#12
What an idiot move on my part. I tossed it Monday night and the dump truck came Tuesday, so it's deep in the land fill now lol.
I'll search for a used BCM locally. I've bypass vats before so I'll get my key code number at the dealership to find what ohms.
No that "Integrated Body Control Module" black box that I see on pictures isn't there. So I guess I found my problem
I'll search for a used BCM locally. I've bypass vats before so I'll get my key code number at the dealership to find what ohms.
No that "Integrated Body Control Module" black box that I see on pictures isn't there. So I guess I found my problem
07-31-2015, 09:29 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
Ah ... don't kick yourself. I actually thought that I had a BCM issue a few years ago so I bought a used one. I matched the resistance that the BCM wanted and just left that one in. All that to say is I have one with resistors that match if you want it.
08-01-2015, 12:17 PM
#15
TECH Fanatic
Just use an ohmmeter to get the resistance on your key. Maybe you can buy another BCM that will match your key's resistance. Either that or you get a new key with the replacement BCM. You may have to go the vats bypass route. Then you'll have to figure out the right resistance to match the BCM,
08-01-2015, 08:30 PM
#16
Just use an ohmmeter to get the resistance on your key. Maybe you can buy another BCM that will match your key's resistance. Either that or you get a new key with the replacement BCM. You may have to go the vats bypass route. Then you'll have to figure out the right resistance to match the BCM,
08-01-2015, 10:18 PM
#17
TECH Fanatic
Not fun but what I had to do was get the list of all the resistances that are used and then do the bypass. I just used a potentiometer and dialed in those resistances (one at a time) until I no longer had the security light on on my dash and it cranked. It's kind of a pain and I also seem to recall that I had to reset the battery everytime that I changed the resistance to try again.
Last edited by TA_Freak; 08-01-2015 at 10:28 PM.
08-02-2015, 07:36 PM
#18
Well I must be a little lucky....I pulled a BCM from a '00 V6 model at the wrecking yard for $20. I plugged it in my car and BAM!!! the car started 
The only thing is my dome light still won't go on. My radio, power window/locks work like a charm. I re-programmed my key fob and that now works. I'm just going over a couple more things to make sure it's back to normal. My alarm seems to be more sensitive?? But hey...I'm happy it's alive again lol.
The only thing is my dome light still won't go on. My radio, power window/locks work like a charm. I re-programmed my key fob and that now works. I'm just going over a couple more things to make sure it's back to normal. My alarm seems to be more sensitive?? But hey...I'm happy it's alive again lol.
08-02-2015, 10:48 PM
#20
Thanks Ryan. It's was a stupid little mistake I made.
That module is small and black which blended in with the hvac crap I pulled out. I was just in such a rush that I grabbed the entire pile and threw it all in the trash. If I missed garbage day, I would of been fine, but it was too late lol!
That module is small and black which blended in with the hvac crap I pulled out. I was just in such a rush that I grabbed the entire pile and threw it all in the trash. If I missed garbage day, I would of been fine, but it was too late lol!