Check gages light intermittent flickering
09-07-2015, 08:08 AM
#1
Check gages light intermittent flickering I continue to have problems which began the day after driving through a deeper than expected parking lot puddle the end of June.
Here are the symptoms, I don't know if they are all related to the puddle however:
* Intermittent backfiring on decel near idle, sometimes at idle, seems more frequent after engine is hot (driving 15+ minutes in afternoon summer heat) AND using A/C.
* Random hesitation during acceleration causing poor performance, often accompanied by flickering check gauges light
* Check gauges light will randomly flicker quickly, but other gauges don't indicate a problem. Scanner reporting low voltage in upper RPMs at WOT.
* Sometimes I can get the check engine light to flicker on demand in 1st gear under heavy acceleration. Perhaps something is physically shifting around causing a short?
* The OEM radio will intermittently lose power during use and nothing I pressed will turn it back on. It comes back on by itself.
* At night when the check gauges light is flickering, if I turn on the interior lights the lights will flicker like it's low on voltage, but the scanner doesn't reflect that.
Things I had done within a few weeks before the puddle:
* Replaced spark plugs (TR6's @.045") and ignition wires (Firecore 50's)
Below is a list of maintenance performed since driving through the puddle in the parking lot in late June, not all of it was specifically to address these symptoms. Problems persist.
* Replaced air filter a week after the puddle, it wasn't wet at that time
* Cleaned MAF sensor.
* Scanned for misfires, counts not increasing rapidly like they had years ago when I had a broken valve spring. Minor misfires are normal due to the aftermarket camshaft.
* Disconnected MAF sensor and ran speed density only.
* Monitored O2 switching, still normal.
* Replaced PCV.
* Replaced fuel filter.
* Verified fuel pressure at idle (60psi), but did not verify during driving or WOT.
* Performed injector balance test.
* Cleaned injectors.
* Checked oil, no water found.
* Changed oil and filter.
* Replaced oil cooler cover & seal.
* Replaced low oil level sensor.
* No glitter found in the old oil filter.
* Regularly using Techron Concentrate Plus fuel additive to clean fuel system.
* Installed an underdrive alternator pulley to help combat low voltage in upper RPMs. On one WOT pull it was resolved, on another it returned. After install it was noted that the battery was charging fine.
* Checked all grounds. Replaced main ground bolt on passenger front fender. Still need to pull intake manifold and check ground on rear of cylinder head.
* Serpentine belt jumped a groove on the power steering pump pulley, reseated.
* Installed fuel pressure sender on fuel rail. Pending connection to the no-longer-used EGR connector to enable laptop scan tool to monitor fuel pressure.
* Cleaned oil catch can (it was over half full).
* Replaced loom on MAP extension harness.
* Verified continuity on all fuses in the three fuse blocks (two blocks near driver fender, one block inside driver door). Did not verify any relays.
* Vacuum gauge indicates a stable 15-16inHg at idle, responding normally to throttle input while parked.
* Raised idle RPM a little because the underdrive pulley was undercharging at idle.
* No DTC's.
Any ideas of what else to check outside of verifying the last remaining ground, replacing the front O2's (I have them, just not installed yet) and replacing the alternator (I have a spare)? I've gotten to the point where I no longer enjoy working under the car so I've been taking it to a shop. I'd rather spend the money on resolutions for documented diagnostic results than throwing money at labor for something which doesn't fix the issues. One dealer won't offer a normal diagnostic rate on the car because it's 'so modified'
Here are the symptoms, I don't know if they are all related to the puddle however:
* Intermittent backfiring on decel near idle, sometimes at idle, seems more frequent after engine is hot (driving 15+ minutes in afternoon summer heat) AND using A/C.
* Random hesitation during acceleration causing poor performance, often accompanied by flickering check gauges light
* Check gauges light will randomly flicker quickly, but other gauges don't indicate a problem. Scanner reporting low voltage in upper RPMs at WOT.
* Sometimes I can get the check engine light to flicker on demand in 1st gear under heavy acceleration. Perhaps something is physically shifting around causing a short?
* The OEM radio will intermittently lose power during use and nothing I pressed will turn it back on. It comes back on by itself.
* At night when the check gauges light is flickering, if I turn on the interior lights the lights will flicker like it's low on voltage, but the scanner doesn't reflect that.
Things I had done within a few weeks before the puddle:
* Replaced spark plugs (TR6's @.045") and ignition wires (Firecore 50's)
Below is a list of maintenance performed since driving through the puddle in the parking lot in late June, not all of it was specifically to address these symptoms. Problems persist.
* Replaced air filter a week after the puddle, it wasn't wet at that time
* Cleaned MAF sensor.
* Scanned for misfires, counts not increasing rapidly like they had years ago when I had a broken valve spring. Minor misfires are normal due to the aftermarket camshaft.
* Disconnected MAF sensor and ran speed density only.
* Monitored O2 switching, still normal.
* Replaced PCV.
* Replaced fuel filter.
* Verified fuel pressure at idle (60psi), but did not verify during driving or WOT.
* Performed injector balance test.
* Cleaned injectors.
* Checked oil, no water found.
* Changed oil and filter.
* Replaced oil cooler cover & seal.
* Replaced low oil level sensor.
* No glitter found in the old oil filter.
* Regularly using Techron Concentrate Plus fuel additive to clean fuel system.
* Installed an underdrive alternator pulley to help combat low voltage in upper RPMs. On one WOT pull it was resolved, on another it returned. After install it was noted that the battery was charging fine.
* Checked all grounds. Replaced main ground bolt on passenger front fender. Still need to pull intake manifold and check ground on rear of cylinder head.
* Serpentine belt jumped a groove on the power steering pump pulley, reseated.
* Installed fuel pressure sender on fuel rail. Pending connection to the no-longer-used EGR connector to enable laptop scan tool to monitor fuel pressure.
* Cleaned oil catch can (it was over half full).
* Replaced loom on MAP extension harness.
* Verified continuity on all fuses in the three fuse blocks (two blocks near driver fender, one block inside driver door). Did not verify any relays.
* Vacuum gauge indicates a stable 15-16inHg at idle, responding normally to throttle input while parked.
* Raised idle RPM a little because the underdrive pulley was undercharging at idle.
* No DTC's.
Any ideas of what else to check outside of verifying the last remaining ground, replacing the front O2's (I have them, just not installed yet) and replacing the alternator (I have a spare)? I've gotten to the point where I no longer enjoy working under the car so I've been taking it to a shop. I'd rather spend the money on resolutions for documented diagnostic results than throwing money at labor for something which doesn't fix the issues. One dealer won't offer a normal diagnostic rate on the car because it's 'so modified'
09-08-2015, 06:42 AM
#3
* Random hesitation during acceleration causing poor performance, often accompanied by flickering check gauges light
* Check gauges light will randomly flicker quickly, but other gauges don't indicate a problem. Scanner reporting low voltage in upper RPMs at WOT.
* Sometimes I can get the check engine light to flicker on demand in 1st gear under heavy acceleration. Perhaps something is physically shifting around causing a short?
* At night when the check gauges light is flickering, if I turn on the interior lights the lights will flicker like it's low on voltage, but the scanner doesn't reflect that.
* Check gauges light will randomly flicker quickly, but other gauges don't indicate a problem. Scanner reporting low voltage in upper RPMs at WOT.
* Sometimes I can get the check engine light to flicker on demand in 1st gear under heavy acceleration. Perhaps something is physically shifting around causing a short?
* At night when the check gauges light is flickering, if I turn on the interior lights the lights will flicker like it's low on voltage, but the scanner doesn't reflect that.
Usually, the fuel sender is the first thing to check for a blinking check gauges light, but taking all of the above in to consideration, it looks like a wire/connection is coming loose. Maybe it is happening so quickly that your voltmeter on the dash doesn't register the drop-out?
If it were an alternator problem, I'd think that the battery would pick up any slack - thus a bad/loose connection.
Classic RAP BCM Issue. Check the stickies.
09-08-2015, 05:43 PM
#4
I had typos, it's only the Check Gauges light (not the SES light) in the lower left of the dash. I noticed this morning that the odometer light intensity was pulsing ever so slightly. On the way home from work tonight I thought I smelled an odor similar to something electric burning.
09-10-2015, 07:07 PM
#6
Alternator stopped charging battery yesterday afternoon. Swapped it with my spare truck alternator and it began charging again. Noticed O2's were no longer switching above 1500RPM, replaced with another set of Denso 234-4617's. Immediately began switching normally. I only gave the shop two hours to work on it, so I left with the car still backfiring and still with hesitation on acceleration (accompanied by a more predominant popping noise). When I got home the check gauges light was flickering again right before I shut off the motor, voltage gauge was halfway between middle and red.
Found a forum post from a GTO owner who had similar throttle hesitation/popping noise and he found a cracked plug; he replaced plugs & wires and his issue was resolved. How much of the ignition system can you thoroughly test without removing the plugs? What is the process and what tools are needed?
Found a forum post from a GTO owner who had similar throttle hesitation/popping noise and he found a cracked plug; he replaced plugs & wires and his issue was resolved. How much of the ignition system can you thoroughly test without removing the plugs? What is the process and what tools are needed?
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09-23-2015, 06:24 PM
#10
Could a damaged spark plug (over tightened) be a cause for these symptoms?
Results of dry compression test. First pump on the compression test were all 125. Wires are Firecore50's.
Cyl 1/3/5/7: 200/205/205/200
Cyl 2/4/6/8: 200/200/205/205
Wire ohm Cyl 1/3/5/7: 46/38/36/28
Wire ohm Cyl 2/4/6/8: 36/36/59/60
Based upon the dry compression results, didn't pursue a wet test or a leakdown test. Wires physically look fine, moving them around while testing the resistance didn't change the readings. Ti boots are still good, keeping them on in lieu of the OEM metal boots. Nothing obviously wrong with the old plugs when checking them at the shop, a pair looked a little cleaner than the remainder. I forgot plug #7 at the shop, but upon further inspection at home I see plug #2 has a orangish-brown band at the base of the ceramic, #8 has a very slight amount of the same discoloration also but is hard to see in the photo. Looking online indicates that perhaps these plugs were installed too tightly .
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...vingSparkPlugs
Search for the section named 'What Happens When Plugs are Installed Incorrectly?'
Didn't notice the hesitation and popcorn sounds on acceleration on the way home, time will tell.
Results of dry compression test. First pump on the compression test were all 125. Wires are Firecore50's.
Cyl 1/3/5/7: 200/205/205/200
Cyl 2/4/6/8: 200/200/205/205
Wire ohm Cyl 1/3/5/7: 46/38/36/28
Wire ohm Cyl 2/4/6/8: 36/36/59/60
Based upon the dry compression results, didn't pursue a wet test or a leakdown test. Wires physically look fine, moving them around while testing the resistance didn't change the readings. Ti boots are still good, keeping them on in lieu of the OEM metal boots. Nothing obviously wrong with the old plugs when checking them at the shop, a pair looked a little cleaner than the remainder. I forgot plug #7 at the shop, but upon further inspection at home I see plug #2 has a orangish-brown band at the base of the ceramic, #8 has a very slight amount of the same discoloration also but is hard to see in the photo. Looking online indicates that perhaps these plugs were installed too tightly .
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...vingSparkPlugs
Search for the section named 'What Happens When Plugs are Installed Incorrectly?'
Didn't notice the hesitation and popcorn sounds on acceleration on the way home, time will tell.