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Replaced IAC.....now idles at 2k rpm's

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Old 09-25-2015, 06:02 PM
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Default Replaced IAC.....now idles at 2k rpm's

Here is a video of the idling issue I was having. I assumed it was a bad IAC because the idle would jump up and down a bit and also would almost die when I come to a hard-ish stop. I checked all the lines for vacuum leaks and nothing.

Before replacing the IAC:



Now after replacing the IAC, from a cold start the RPM's shot up to 2K as was staying there for a while. My car is loud, so I didn't let it warm up to see if the RPM's would go down. I tried the IAC reset procedure (I think I did it right lol) and nothing. So I currently disconnected my battery to reset the PCM.

My car has a cam and has been tuned, would I need to get it re-tuned? How would I get the RPM's down and idle right?
Old 09-25-2015, 07:35 PM
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Try turning your throttle screw to close the blade a bit, say 1/2 turn. Unplug both the iac and tips. Key on but don't start. 30 seconds, key off plug both in, start the car. Should idle lower.

Rinse and repeat as needed
Old 09-25-2015, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Try turning your throttle screw to close the blade a bit, say 1/2 turn. Unplug both the iac and tips. Key on but don't start. 30 seconds, key off plug both in, start the car. Should idle lower.

Rinse and repeat as needed
My blade seems to be closed as much as it can be. I unplugged the sensors and reset it again. Since car was warm from driving, it started up around 1k rpm's, but the second I barely touched the gas, it shot up to 2k and was holding again.
Old 09-25-2015, 08:13 PM
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Here is the cold start, you'll notice it takes a few minutes for RPM's to drop:


This is while I was cruising, foot off the gas pedal it will stay around 1700-2000 RPM's. The car will move itself without me giving it gas. I have to brake at times for it to slow down. At the end of the clip, you parked it back in the garage and it climbed to 2k and stayed there
Old 09-25-2015, 10:04 PM
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If you don't have tuning software you probably need to take it your tuner. I'm guessing your idle airflow was set really high to compensate for a non functioning iac, and now needs to be updated.
Old 09-25-2015, 11:07 PM
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Tino do you still have the previous IAC sensor? If so, put it back in and see what happens. Clean the TPS sensor also. Plus check the vacuum lines again that run along the valve cover. Do you still have the stock PCV? Mine had a pin hole and was doing what your original problem was. And when we did the H/C we found this also
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Last edited by King Nothing; 09-25-2015 at 11:17 PM.
Old 09-25-2015, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
If you don't have tuning software you probably need to take it your tuner. I'm guessing your idle airflow was set really high to compensate for a non functioning iac, and now needs to be updated.
That's what I was thinking too. I talked to him and said he'll have to log it.
Originally Posted by King Nothing
Tino do you still have the previous IAC sensor? If so, put it back in and see what happens. Clean the TPS sensor also. Plus check the vacuum lines again that run along the valve cover. Do you still have the stock PCV? Mine had a pin hole and was doing what your original problem was. And when we did the H/C we found this also

Yeah John I put the old one back in and ran like it did before. It doesn't idle high with the old one just bounces up and down a little during stops. I'll double check the pcv lines again.
Old 09-26-2015, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I'm guessing your idle airflow was set really high to compensate for a non functioning iac, and now needs to be updated.
Has the car been driven enough to go through the relearn proceedure? If not, the PCM could still be compensating for the bad valve. A nice drive could be all it needs.
Old 09-26-2015, 08:17 AM
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Could try an idle relearn....

Reset PCM: 2 ways to do this
Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes.
OR
Take the positive terminal wire loose and tap it against the positive battery terminal 3-4 times making it spark....then go ahead and screw it back on.

Then:
Start the engine and with the rear tires "blocked" or with the emergency brake holding the car in place (if the e-brake works), put the transmission in "D" and let it sit in place like that idling. 5 full minutes.
((You can use a parking lot cement stump to put the front tires up against if you don't have blocks or your e-brake does not work))

Then:
Immediately after the 5 minute mark, tires still 'blocked" or e-brake set, put the A/C on "max" and the fans on full-blast. 5 minutes.

Then:
Immediately after the 5 minute mark, tires still 'blocked" or e-brake set, turn the A/C "off" and let engine idle. 5 minutes again.

Then:
Immediately after those 5 minutes, un-block the car or release the e-brake and hold the car in place by just holding the brake pedal down, Turn A/C back on full-blast. 5 minutes.

Then:
Immediately after those 5 minutes, still holding the car in place by holding the brake pedal down, A/C "OFF". 5 minutes.

Done.

Then, don't turn the car off and go for a 20 minute drive. It also could take up to 50 miles and turning the engine on and off a few times for the PCM to take effect.

All PCMs react differently....so......

.....Could also try this:

PCM Reset - 2 different ways to do it
Turn key on, don't start car
Pull PCM BATT and PCM IGN fuses
Wait 5 full min
Turn ignition off
Replace fuses
Start engine and go drive.....
((still might take 50 miles or so...or a few cycles turning the engine OFF and ON.

.
Old 09-26-2015, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Has the car been driven enough to go through the relearn proceedure? If not, the PCM could still be compensating for the bad valve. A nice drive could be all it needs.
I don't think the idle air learns itself like fuel trims. On my truck I logged it to see what it was running and put that number in the airflow table. Quit hunting and quit hanging.

It took forever to figure out how to do it, but once I did it, it was pretty simple.
Old 09-26-2015, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Has the car been driven enough to go through the relearn proceedure? If not, the PCM could still be compensating for the bad valve. A nice drive could be all it needs.
This is my vote also after replacing the iacv. It will idle high for a bit but drive it for a bit on the freeway and it should find it's place
Old 09-26-2015, 12:04 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll give those a shot and check back in.



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