tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

So my car will make a "click" noise when I try to start it, but won't turn over. All the gauges and lights come on when turned to accessory though. It's a little hard to see the battery gauge in the video, but the needle is almost in red when trying to crank. So I'm assuming battery? If I cycle the ignition a few times, sometimes it will slowly crank over and start. The battery is dated from 2012 and is a Duralast red top battery.

IF, it is the battery, I'm thinking of the Braille 14115 battery since the car is a weekend toy and to loose a few pounds. Where should I start to check and see if it's the battery? I guess I could take the battery to auto zone and test it lol. What do you guys think?

VIDEO:
http://vid154.photobucket.com/albums...psbu2ld7i7.mp4

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Yeah the battery needs 12v to engage the starter solenoid.

If you have a multimeter you can check if your battery has 12v

If it does have 12v then check the starter wires and battery cables for Looseness.. If that doesn't work remove the starter and bench test it to the battery or take it to autozone and have it tested as well..

But if the battery is dead then it needs charging/replacing before you can test the starter.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

So I hooked up a multimeter up to the battery and it read 12.14v. The car still did the same thing, click and wouldn't start. I hooked up some jumper cables and tested the volts, and the battery read 14.48v. It started right up when I did that. I turned the car off and tried starting it multiple times, and fired up each and every time.
Also I noticed when I just turned the ignition to accessory, the volt gauge on the cluster was well over half way (13ish volts?) whereas before It wouldn't even make it halfway. So I assume the battery is getting weak?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Possibly or loose cables.

You can rule out the battery by letting autozone test the battery and see if it can hold a proper charge

I would disconnect the battery and clean the threaded tips really good.. You would be surprised how much it helps.. These cars are getting old and need small maintenance items like this checked..

big_g

Technically a fully charged battery should read 12.6v, which yours does not. Seeing as how it starts up every time it is given enough juice, you can probably rule out the starter. In addition, those red Duralast batteries are crap (from my own experience) and seeing as how it is already 4 yours old, that is another piece of evidence for a bad battery. However, it could be that the battery just needs to be charged, so I'd have Autozone test it first. Personally I will only buy Delco batteries from now on.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Thanks for the input guys. I bought a battery tender and have it charging over night. I'll see how it does tomorrow and double check those connections.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You have a short in the battery. Get a new one.

I highly recommend the AC Delco 78-7yr.....its a monster. I believe it has a 5 yr full replacement warranty. Then after that 2 more years pro-rated. Something like that, can't remember. I'm on my second one in 11 years. And this second one was totally free under warranty. I was literally in my last month of full warranty replacement and they handed me a brand new one free.

There is no better battery. Mine doesn't faulter one bit....A/C on full blast, stereo with 1,000 watt amp and a 12" woofer cranking, at night with all the lights on......it rocks.


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Firebrian

I picked up an AC Delco Professional Gold 42 month battery last year for $105, same size and rating it originally came with. You can keep floating your battery for months or even a couple more years and get it to start. But, at some point it will strand you. Hotter weather is tougher on battery life. 3 years is a pretty normal life-span in Southern Texas or Florida. Anything in the 12.3-12.4 volt range or higher should probably start the car. At a juiced 13+ volts it will certainly fire up fast. If you can remove caps I'd check for the cells for proper water level and sulfation. Some of that can be restored with some extended battery charging.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

That's weird. I took my battery in to autozone and tested fine. I then took my starter in and it failed. I have a high torque mini starter ordered and also thinking about ordering a Braille battery just to replace the other.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

So just an update, I put the new starter in and cranked right up.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got your car running, but I dont know if I would have used a high torque starter, I have heard issues with stronger than stock starters breaking off the ears that the bolts connect to on the block because our block is aluminum but I'm open to correction because I know I'm going to probably cross this bridge soon too.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

I haven't heard of that. The new starter required for me to use two long bolts so helpfully they stay secure in there